• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.350-364
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• 2013

Based on the background of the times and theoretical background that influenced the formation of the works of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, one of representative architects of Art Nouveau, this study examined the formative characteristics of furniture design by period. In addition, his influences on the modern furniture design were also reviewed. In the latter half of the 19th century, due to Arts and Crafts Movement, the popularity of Art Nouveau was not high in England and due to conservative and traditional culture, Mackintosh had difficult time to display his ability in England. On the other hand, because Glasgow, one of industrial cities located in the center of Scotland where he had grown was an open and modern city, Mackintosh could win international fame in architecture and furniture design thanks to the atmosphere. Furthermore, it is found from the formative characteristics of his works that Historicism, Arts and Crafts Movement and Japanese culture and the influences of Continent became his theoretical background. His works creatively combined the noble design of Scotland and Art Nouveau to be considered a simple and pure style with a straight tendency and his working period can be divided into Beginning, Middle and Last Period according to the formative characteristics of furniture design. His constituting principle that decorated the structure influenced the Wien Secession's activities to form Wiener Werkstaette and this finally became the important background to develop to 'Modernism Design' through Art Deco and Bauhaus.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 2016

The purpose of this paper is to review and analyse the influence of Hegel on architectural historiography. With the point of view that Hegel is the origin of architectural history, this study try to find out how Hegel's philosophy and aesthetics deeply influenced the principle and method of architectural historiography. As a kind of meta-history Hegel's idealism played a important role in the interpretation of architecture and its historiography. We can call it Hegelian legacy and it gave a determinant idea in the discours of architecture, especially Modernism. With a critical view point this study tries to reveal the mythical character of the premise and hypothesis of Hegel's historicism and also reviews its positive aspects in the history of writing architectural history. Today Hegelian thinking in architectural historiography is seriously criticized and considered as a old way of writing history. But this study tries to find a possibility to recognize the contemporary architectural situation with Hegel's concept of universal history. The return of Hegel necessarily does not mean the idea of totality and universality in practice as like in Modernism, but to widen the recognition in contemporary practice and historiography.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.103-110
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• 2010

As ongoing construction of a new municipal government building leads to the destruction of the interior of the Kyungsung Municipal Government Building(currentlySeoul Metropolitan City Hall) despite its enormous historic value, this study aims to identify the unique features of spatial composition and interior design of the Kyungsung Municipal Government Building, which is widely known as a typical example of public architecture of the 1920s. The primary goal is to perform a systemic arrangement of its interior data and define the modern historic implications of its interior design, thereby laying the foundation for a compilation of the history of modern interior design. From a historical perspective, the Kyungsung Municipal Government Building-an explicit symbol of Japanese colonial supremacy-has served as the administrative hub of a hugecity for 19 years during the Japanese colonial rule and for 64 years following Korea's independence from Japan. From the perspective of architectural history, it also represents modern transitional buildingsin their shift from historicism into modernism, as manifested by its reasonable placement of interior space matching well with topographical form, easy access by citizens, open office space, and, excluding decoration, a simple and non-authoritarian exterior. Its interior design style follows Western historicist architecture, whereasits simple interior decoration embodies expressive characteristics of pragmatic simplicity. Such elements are notably found in the Grand Central Hall, the Municipal Head's Reception Room, and the Grand Conference Room.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.249-262
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to contemplate evening dress in contemporary fashion, thereby to analyze aesthetic characteristics of evening dress. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey of evening dresses, and to conduct a case study of survey of fashion photographs covering $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}t$-porter design products from 2000 to 2007 presented by Valentine. Based upon the historical survey, there are five representative styles in evening dress. Flapper chic looks could be characterized by frequent usage of sleeveless straight silhouette with long or mini hemlines, expressing sensuality, luxury, and ethnicity. Satin Siren looks were characterized by bias-cut, slim, long silhouette, expressing sensuality and luxury. Feminine Ideal looks were characterized by hourglass silhouette and decolltage with feminine details such as bow, pleats and frills, expressing historicism, luxury and sensuality. Freedom and fantasy looks were characterized by ethnic details or modern silhouette with transparent, printed materials, expressing ethnicity, sensuality, and luxury. Finally, postmodern glamourous looks were characterized by body-conscious silhouette with transparent, shiny, or stretch materials, expressing sensuality, experimentalism and luxury.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.56 no.1
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• pp.3-23
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• 2010

This essay questions and attempts to answer why and how Shakespeare set his plays in time and space other than his own England. Bakhtin's concept of chronotope as integrated time-space offers a model of establishing "a historical poetics." Shakespeare's chronotope has been either negated as mere names for transcendental ideas by universalists, or reduced to a "cover" for contemporary England by historicists. Refuting such either/or approach, this essay claims chronotopic dynamics of both/and as Shakespeare's intentional poetics of ambiguity. While Shakespeare clearly wants to build fictional chronotope distant from reality and does so through verbal repetition, character names, alternation of locales and speaking directly to the audience, he also brings in reality through the figure of clowns and the theatrical space of platea. Anachronism and topological errors ensuing from chronotopic collision register desire to produce multiple meanings. Shaped by historical forces such as Renaissance poetics, education, censorship and new geography, chronotopic form itself is a witness of historicity as much as the coded ideological messages New Historicists industriously delve out. Shakespeare's chronotopic dynamism offers the space for dialogue and appropriation to modern readers, a practice no less worthwhile than history lesson.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• Lingua Humanitatis
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• v.6
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• pp.51-75
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• 2004

Is there a pattern in history? How and why does social change occur? Are we to distinguish between the methods to be employed in the study of man and the study of nature? How does linguistic, or 'philological', knowledge contribute to unearthing historical facts? These are the queries that Vico grappled with throughout his life. Vico, however, was an outsider to the intellectual atmosphere of his own day, dismissed as obscure, speculative, and unsound. Only after his death did he begin to inspire enthusiasm among diverse readers, and as long as we remain concerned with the queries mentioned above, Vico's reflections will come alive with contemporary relevance. Actually he has been regarded as the founder--unrecognized by his contemporaries--of the philosophy of history and as a thinker whose ideas anticipated such later intellectual movements as historicism, pragmatism, existentialism, and structuralism. There are many among modern minds who find Vico fascinating for his view of myth as concrete thought and of an age of myth as a necessary age in the intellectual evolution of the human race. James Joyce, for one, was deeply impressed by Vico's view on myth, on metaphor, on Homer, on language, on psychology, and much else besides. 'My imagination grows when I read Vico,' he once confessed, 'as it doesn't when I read Freud or Jung.' Some philosophers, critics, psychologists, social scientists and even geographers would describe themselves as 'Vichians', sharing the view that Vico was a poet and a lawyer, a platonist and a baconian rolled into one. His refusal to be confined within any one discipline, his imaginative effort to understand different cultures, and his insight in dealing with some fundamental problems in the study of humanity all compel admiration and deserve to be emulated in our age--an age when the split between the literary and the scientific approaches to the understanding of society is widening into a chasm. Vico has left some of his most important ideas underdeveloped or even undeveloped, to be excavated and polished by us afier our own fashion. It is surprising that Vico is still a man of obscure name in the academia of our country, Korea.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.328-340
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• 2008

This study examined the characteristics of furniture design in the early Modernism that occurred in the early 20th Century through the relationship with modern arts. The furniture design of the early Modernism was established in the early 20th Century based on the simplicity and honesty of the Art and Crafts Movement and Anti-Historicism in Art Nouveau. During this period, the necessity of mass production became critical due to the radical industrialization and new social demands. In such periodic stream, the furniture design of the early modernism pursued simplicity and geometric beauty based on functionalism. The efforts to discover the fundamental structure of furniture were intensified. It was not limited to furniture design but was also exercised in the huge periodic transformation that progressed in every field of art including architecture. The Modernism art has also been connected to Cubism and spread into an abstract direction. While questioning the potential essence and progressing the study on genuine characteristics, the Modernism art tried to return things into their substantial looks and reorganize them conceptually, rather than reproducing external objects. The furniture that was secondary to a part of architecture and interior accessory transcended its decorative purpose. It pursued the structure to follow its fundamental purpose as furniture. Such tendency corresponded to the direction that Post-Modernism followed. Likewise, both art and design had the revivable and abstract characteristics based on the identical objective in ideology. For this reason, the formative and geometric characteristics of the early modernism furniture design have a mutual relationship with modern arts. Particularly, such tendency intensified and progressed through the Bauhaus in Germany. Based on such facts, this study proved that the early Modernism furniture design in the 20th Century tended to appear in common arts including the art and design according to the social demand of the huge periodic stream. Furthermore, the ideology that was adopted in art and design, as well as its formative characteristics, was examined through the mutual relationship of modern arts and design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.657-669
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.