• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.29-42
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• 2012

Historically, the pattern and technology of Copts' textiles, who were a minority in Egypt, have been studied a lot in the textile sector due to its unique characteristics. Unlike ones in other regions that appeared around the same time, the overall configuration ratio of the patterns looks exaggerated or distorted because they expressed it plainly by interpreting the world with ordinary people's eyes. Also, because it had used mixed linen and woolen yarns, harsh expression way and the use of various colors have been one of the features in Coptic textiles. Coptic textiles, which have been developed along with the historical development of continued domination from neighboring countries, have expressed the effects of the Roman Empire, Christ, Christianity, and Islam on the pattern of its fabric. This study analyzed its characteristics which make people smile by the way of expressing a simple and humorous representation of the textiles and categorized them as Humoristic Beauty - the aesthetic category of humorous feature. In this study, the Humoristic Beauty in Coptic textiles has been analyzed in terms of the following three smiles; the smiles coincidental with the flow of time, the smiles made by the shaping of distorted proportions and appearance, and the smiles like folk-paintings made by a rustic expression way. This study shows the possibility of the further studies on the textile patterns history from a different angle. I look forward to more detailed analysis in the follow-up studies in the future.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.5 no.2 s.6
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• pp.15-24
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• 1996

Th)s study was carried out of the historical characters and textile coservations for Mrs. Danha Lee's Wonsam. As the textile material was silk, dry cleaning method was suggested. The solvents for dry cleaning were n-hexane, n-decane, and benzene. During the second cleaning process, the dry soap(HI-TECH, 120:1, volume ratio) was added to the mixed solvents. The reaction's temparature was $20^{\circ}C$, and the reaction's time was 30 minuutes. It seemed to be a gift for hot from the Royal Family because of the attachment of pheonlx hungbae. This wonsam was decorated symmetrically by gold weaving yarn, the basic fabric was green silk satin with glorius letters and floral patterns. It was made on the 17th C and the oldest thing among them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.511-518
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• 2009

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. Deformation of the body denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. Bodily deformation carried out historical and cultural pastiche opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism which results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\acute{e}}$ of clothing. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily deformation as pastiche, focusing on the relationship between clothes and the body. In order to inquire the deformation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the 21st century, using the method of literature research and content analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.217-227
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• 1997

Costume of each age reflects its own history. Military costume is an reflections of war, social and geometrical background. Soldiers on their uniforms were at the battlefields with their lives and country on their shoulders. The main purpose of this writing is to study military costume of ancient empires in historical Point of view including especially those of Egypt, Mesopotamia, Crete, Greece, Etruria, Rome. As we will see, ancient military costume developed from earlier stages of uniforms into military costume in various ways. The types of military costume formed itself gradually but rapidly into sophisticated, useful, and excellent quality clothes. Military costume of early ancient empires signified its strength and were actual and symbolic costume that determined life and death, glory and disgrace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.165-178
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• 2012

This study researches the form of the Korean jacket point through relics from the Three Kingdoms period that have the traditional Korean style and grace of the Goryeo period as well as the form of the modern Korean jacket starting point. Several conclusions can be drawn from the Korean Image of the Korean jacket that can be classified into types expressed in the jacket style of modern fashion. Therefore, we will analyze traditional elements of Korean beauty through the "Korean image" on how to express it in modern fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand modern design creation and Korean culture. It is important to begin the world through the application of traditional elements to recognize Korean beauty as well as to utilize historical dress based on function and popularity to continue the effort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.173-184
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• 1998

The results of this theis are as follows. As regards the chronological transformation of the royal court dancing which is characterized by the variousness and colorfulness of the old-fashioned dancing suit, in the pre-dynasty of triple alliance among Shinla, Bakjae, and Goguryeo, the traditional ritual stood on ceremony through the ceremonial dancing in support of a religional rite. But while the Shinla, Bakjae, and GoGuRyeo dynasty began to excercise the systematic royal control over people, each royal court employed the professional ritual dancers; and it encouraged them to dance on the variety of ceremony on behalf of a rite and celebration. Of course, except for that of Shinla dynasty, it is not so easy to find out the historical record for the evidence which can back up these facts. As representatives of a ritual dancing, the religional ceremony of Shinla dynasty brought about the orientation of GumGee-Mu, MooAe-Mu, Saseon-Mu, Seonyu-Ak, and Cheoyong-Mu.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.13-20
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• 1998

Scandinavia consists of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland, all linked by historical and geographical ties. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the folk costume of the Scandinavia. Scandinavia many skilled handicrafts are practised, such as leatherwork, silverwork and embroidery. The most popular colours are yellow, blues, reds, greens and white. For women the costume consist of a blouse with a bodice, skirt and apron, over which is worn a jacket or shawl, accompanied by a headdress. Their accessories may be jewellery, belts, kerchiefs and separate pockets. For the men, the costume is a shirt, trousers or breeches, worn with a waistcoat and jacket, neck scarf, and topped with a hat or cap. And the Lapps, both men and women, wear woollen shirts beneath their blue-skirted tunics, and blue trousers. It is one of the most ancient of the costumes worn in western Europe, due to its total suitability to their way of life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.50-65
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to analyze the plasticity of women's hats in the 20th century. This paper reveals the characteristics of formation through the historical survey of women's hats, which can be used as a basic design data for developing high value added products. Hats have been worn to play as key roles of various social codes. During the 20th century, functional roles of hats still existed, and the roles of ornaments had been gradually increased, however, the roles with symbolic meanings of regarding social class had been weakened. The major plasticities of hats can be generally analyzed based on the shape, material, technique, and ornament. As the time passed by to the end of the 20th century, flat-shape hats have been worn casually in both Western countries and Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1779-1790
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• 2001

새로운 탄생을 위해 과거의 것을 재조합하는 역사적 절충주의는 오늘날 과거로 회귀하고픈 현대인들의 요구에 부합하며 환영받고 있다. 본 연구는 복식에 표현된 역사적 절충주의 양식을 파악하기 위해 건축을 통해 그 특성을 규명하고 이를 복식에 적용시켜 19세기 복식은 복식사 문헌을 바탕으로 20세기를 대표하는 1990년대의 복식은 $\ulcorner$콜렉션$\lrcorner$지를 중심으로 복식의 역사적 절충주의 양식을 살펴보았다. 연구 결과, 서로 다른 두 장르에서 펼쳐진 역사적 절충주의는 비슷한 시기가운데 1)형태 참고를 특징으로 하는 조형성, 2)장식적인 아름다움을 특징으로 하는 장식성, 3)새로운 재질과 발전된 기술을 기반으로 하는 기술성, 4)불투명한 시대 경향을 지시하는 모호성이라는 조형적 특성을 나타내었고, 이로 인해 건축과 복식의 문화적 공유성은 재확인되었다. 이처럼 복식의 역사적 절충주의를 통해, 과거의 힘이 무엇이며 현재에 어떠한 의미를 지니는가를 상기한다면 복식사의 중요성은 더욱 부각될 것이다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.865-879
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• 1997

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, Nt. 5 (1997) p. 865∼879 The purpose of the study is to identify a historical change about the women's underwear and trousers this nation of ours until an ancient times to modern ages. Because the record of the women's trousers exist scarcely anything, the study refers to several documents, for example, the literatures of the Chinese and the Chosun Dynasty, the Koryu's fresco, the Tou of Shinra, the painting of the rock face, the archaeological dresses and genre pictures, and The folkways methods through the residents is used to collect and to arrange of an enlightened age and modern times. Originally, the women's trousers appeared for the nomadism and the hunting in the northern distric and the northeastern provinces. Male and female, old and young wear the trousers which are the clothes native to Korea. The trousers which are originally narrow trousers are influnced by Chinese wide trousers. The trousers at the time of Samsuk hand down until Korea. The Skirt on the trousers is nothing but a courtesy. But gradually, it is distinguished only the trousers, and then, there are exchanged an underwear which not only the protection angainst the cold but also the beautiful. Therefore, the form of skirt is diminished, and the underwear is simplified as the increasing status and the activity of woman in the age of civilization. In a way, the reform trousers and Three-kingdom era trousers appeared and the Dansogok and Sogok disappeared at present. There are confirmed in my investigation of folk customs.