• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.112-124
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• 2011

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.39-47
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• 2008

Korean embroidery is the long historical industrial arts of real life and has handed down Korean sentiment up to now. Korean traditional embroidered pattern is designed to wish someone's health and luck, who uses the embroidery on the clothes and the goods in real life. Especially, the ten longevity symbols' design is represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, cloud, water, crane, rock, turtle, pine tree, the elixir of life and deer; these 10 symbols show how ancient Korean believe and wish perpetual youth. However, fiber material used embroidery relic has difficulty in preserving for long period compared to other relic descended from historical events for long time and their preserved state isn't so good owing to have been used directly in the real life. Therefore, it is essentially embossed to preserve the embroidery relic and pattern, and make DB for the data. With preservation of the pictures about the handicraft, it's necessary to preserve embroidery technique and make DB through digital imagination. Through the process, we can apply Korean embroidery image to cul-duct package and digital image related field, and it will be helpful to make the tradition popular. In this study, through the research for the embroidery technique applied pattern on the embroidery relic of ten longevity symbols, we'll establish the cultural identification of Korean embroidery image and then develop a worldwide Korean image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.42-52
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• 2015

This study considers the expressive types of 'Glocalism' trends and its inherent aesthetic characteristics through the analysis of flight attendants' uniform design. The following is the conclusions regarding the glocalism trend according to the analysis of airline uniform design that reflect it. First, the design approach was developed appropriating the whole or parts of traditional attire and applying decorative items in terms of a formal aspect. Secondly, the colors of the airline's homeland symbols or natural environment were used while, thirdly, the fabrics represent glocalism by employing folk elements of the region and patterns of nature for a uniform design. Induced from these design analyses, the aesthetic characteristics of airline uniforms reflecting glocalism are traditionality, naturality, and compromisability. To begin with, traditionality is what is realized in interpreting the historical aesthetics in a contemporary perspective, contributing in inspiring the historical value of the homeland and contributing to the establishment of identity by applying forms and colors of traditional garments with folk patterns on a uniform design. In addition, naturality means the reorganization of unprocessed pure nature, expressing the image of nature through colors taken from the natural environment or motifs of the regional plants. Finally, combining general sensibilities with diverse cultural features, compromisability is realized as a modern design which combines a standardized uniform with the aesthetic components of the local environment and traditional garments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.196-207
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• 2014

This study considers expression types and aesthetic characteristics by analyzing Animal sculptures by Billie Achilleos in art collaboration with Louis Vuitton. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, As for expressin type shown in the art collaboration, it is reflected the historical and cultural value peculiar to a country symbolized through animals. As the aesthetic characteristics of symbolism, it reflects historical identity of country by using an image of a symbolic animal representing a state. Second, as the type shown in physical characteristics of animals by utilizing items in Louis Vuitton directly, it is organically expressed a literal type by directly integrating a form having been designed as a commodity itself into the characteristically physical part of an animal. As the aesthetic characteristics according to this is naturality, the motive of the work having borrowed shapes of diverse animals or insects can be said to have been naturally reflected in the primitive natural beauty. Third, through the deconstruction and recombination of a Louis Vuitton item. the amusement of the aesthetic characteristics was expressed in a type having the structurally embodied dynamic movement of an animal, and is expressing visual fun. Fourth, it uses expression type emphasized a specific part of an animal by decorating accessories in Louis Vuitton partly. The aesthetic characteristics is Ornament, the value of craft decoration is being shown by using colorful visual effects by using materials with the colorful textures and patterns of fabrics or mixing embroidery or beads, and belt decoration.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-30
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• 2023

Traditional Kurdish weavings are among the world's most ancient living textile traditions. One of the largest regional ethnic and linguistic groups, Kurds have inhabited a significant part of Western Asia for millennia. Historically, Kurdish territories were crisscrossed by old and important trade routes, including the Silk Roads. This led to the formation of some of the most significant Kurdish artistic and cultural traditions, including textiles, which influenced and were influenced by those of other non-Kurdish ethnic groups from Caucasia to Central Asia and beyond. One example of Kurdish carpet traditions born in the eighteenth century at the cross-sections of Safavid (1501-1736) urban carpets workshops and centuries-old indigenous Kurdish tribal/rural weaves is senneh gelim or sojaee. A finely flatwoven carpet that was exchanged regionally and internationally as a diplomatic gift and a highly prized commodity. Although in decline, senneh gelims continue to be made by Kurdish women weavers in their original birthplace Sanandaj, the provincial capital of Iranian Kurdistan to date. This study adopts an inter-disciplinary approach to present an image of senneh gelim and women gelim weavers, tracing the developmental trajectories of the craft from the eighteenth century to the present time by drawing on extant art-historical and social scientific studies along with primary ethnographic data collected in Iranian Kurdistan (2018-2019). It investigates the craft tradition's historical origin, various aspects such as techniques, materials, aesthetics, functions, and meanings, and how these transformed over time. Additionally, the paper looks at the social contexts of production, focusing on women carpet weavers and how their socioeconomic and cultural situation has formed senneh carpet production in the past and present and the implications for long-term preservation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.376-393
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• 2013

In modern society, culture is an important factor to form a country's image and identity and a representative content to generate revenue. Culture is a keyword to design life in the 21st century and has become competitiveness between countries. As a cultural content with international competitiveness, this study performed textile design development with the use of relics from the Tomb of King Muryeong, which is the tumulus of King Muryeong who was the 25th king of Baekje among Korean history. The developed design could be applied to the production of various fashion cultural products such as clothes, scarf, neck-tie, and bag. The process for the design development was carried out as follows: As a first step, this study found basis as a cultural content with a global sense that could form the historical value of the Tomb of King Muryeong and gain global sympathy of people all over the world through literature reviews. As a second step, this study examined the current state that traditional Korean elements were used as a fashion cultural products. As a third step, this study analyzed the current state and problems of fashion cultural products using relics from the Tomb of King Muryeong through field survey. As a final step, this study planned the concept of design with the use of diadem ornaments, earring, sword, stone guardian animal, and bricks with lotus-flower design from the tomb of King Muryeong. And these developed 6 textile designs could be applied to the production of various fashion cultural products.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.11-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop highly valued fashion cultural items using Korean face and human images to enhance global competition. The methods of this study include: historical study on the face/human images which appear on the dress; design by stage according to Lamb & Kallal's apparel design process; development of products using digital textile printing technology; and case study by objective evaluation through Grant's alpha-beta model. The procedure and the results of this study are as follows: First, in the problem identification stage, the need to develop fashion cultural products of Korean face/human images which are symbolic, aesthetic, and functional was recognized in order to enhance global competition. Second, in the preliminary idea stage, the fashion cultural products and the components that meet the above 3 standards for design were determined and first design was drawn up. The source of the design was extrapolated from face/human images, which appeared on the murals of the ancient Korea, the portraits and custom paintings from the Chosun Dynasty. From these images, a total of 7 design series of T-shirts with an "ULGUL" logo, scarves, and artwalls were developed using "obangsaek" which are five Korean traditional colors including red, blue, black. white, and yellow on cottons and silks. Third, in the design refinement stage, based on the preference survey, more varying design methods were used to develop 25 new designs. Fourth, in prototype development stage, based on the preference survey conducted on fashion professionals and general public from the previous stage, which showed preference for T-shirts and scarves, 3 designs on T-shirts and 2 designs on scarves were printed and produced using the DTP (Digital Textile Printing). Fifth, in the evaluation stage, Grant's alpha-beta model was used to perform comparative evaluation on the symbolic, aesthetic, and functional criteria of the new designs over the existing ones. The new designs received excellent results in all three criteria and a special recognition was given to symbolism of the new designs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.29-42
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• 2012

Historically, the pattern and technology of Copts' textiles, who were a minority in Egypt, have been studied a lot in the textile sector due to its unique characteristics. Unlike ones in other regions that appeared around the same time, the overall configuration ratio of the patterns looks exaggerated or distorted because they expressed it plainly by interpreting the world with ordinary people's eyes. Also, because it had used mixed linen and woolen yarns, harsh expression way and the use of various colors have been one of the features in Coptic textiles. Coptic textiles, which have been developed along with the historical development of continued domination from neighboring countries, have expressed the effects of the Roman Empire, Christ, Christianity, and Islam on the pattern of its fabric. This study analyzed its characteristics which make people smile by the way of expressing a simple and humorous representation of the textiles and categorized them as Humoristic Beauty - the aesthetic category of humorous feature. In this study, the Humoristic Beauty in Coptic textiles has been analyzed in terms of the following three smiles; the smiles coincidental with the flow of time, the smiles made by the shaping of distorted proportions and appearance, and the smiles like folk-paintings made by a rustic expression way. This study shows the possibility of the further studies on the textile patterns history from a different angle. I look forward to more detailed analysis in the follow-up studies in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.45-59
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• 2006

The change into the information society converts people's daily lift into nomadic lifestyle, and this change of lifestyle needs to reinforce the portability in fashion. The purpose of this study is to know the historical diversion of the rallying system, characteristics and reason of this change after recognizing of the implication of fashion and portable methods. The carrying system from the primitive age to modern society was changed from use of body to designing potable equipments - belts, wrapping cloths, bags, pockets, etc. These are changed by modifying of the form of society and fashion. This change result from the development of technique, the entry of women in public affair, the change of life style, the impoverishment of nature. The carrying system of modern fashion means not only the spares in the clothing, but also a new attached system in which nomadic necessities are transformed or unified. The carrying system becomes one of the important details which designers cannot neglect in designing, and must be. developed with consideration of use and function.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.139-153
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• 2016

Retro fashion can be defined as re-applied and re-created fashion style where a certain period or a specific style in the past would be recalled. As a unique cultural phenomenon, the 'retro' style has affected not only our daily lives, but also the fashion industry. The purpose of this study is to explore the relationship between the nostalgia and consumer purchase behaviors of retro fashion products in Korea. The data was collected using a self-administered online survey of 224 respondents. The results show that the sub-elements of nostalgia include personal and historical nostalgia. The personal nostalgia positively influences consumers' purchase intention of retro fashion products, whereas historical nostalgia negatively affects retro purchase intention. Interestingly, the moderating effects of self-connection and age of respondents on the relationship between nostalgia and retro purchase intention was identified. The findings highlight the potential role of retro fashion on modern society, as it can overturn any concerns people may have about the gloomy future and the harsh reality.