• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.105-117
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to reveal the existence of censorship in our country which was one of the method of wielding authority on bodies. For the purpose, the definition of censorship was studied through the concept of ′Symbolic Violence′ from Bourdieu and ′Panopticon′ from Foucault. A censorship can be defined as "all kinds of structural, systemical and psychological control mechanism on specific expression in our society". And follows historical consideration on censorship system from 1920′s to now in our country. The main subject consideration on censorship system from 1920′s to now in our country. The main subject consists of censorship system from 1920′s to now in our country. The main subject consists of censorships on midlle and high school uniforms and that of broadcasting deliberation about entertainer′s costumes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.39-52
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• 2005

This paper is to study about paisley shawl and paisley motif to focus on Kashmir shawl. Kashmir shawl and paisley shawl of Europe can be identified by the use of 'pine cone' motif. Early 19th Europe textile manufactures began imitating the Kashmir shawl, the motif began to be called 'paisley', after Paisley, Scotland, one of the largest producers of imitation Karshmir shawls. This study is to analyze on origin of shawl and paisley motif at the theoretical background. And main issues are to study on organization of the Kashmir shawl indusry, weaving technic and producing process, development of motif, change of size and border design of shawl, difference of Woven Kashmir shawl, Patchwork shawl and hml shawl, causes of decline to shawl industry, differences of between Kashmir and European shawl etc. The result of this study can help to understand correct and accurate information, knowledge of paisley motif and paisley shawl.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.50-65
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to analyze the plasticity of women's hats in the 20th century. This paper reveals the characteristics of formation through the historical survey of women's hats, which can be used as a basic design data for developing high value added products. Hats have been worn to play as key roles of various social codes. During the 20th century, functional roles of hats still existed, and the roles of ornaments had been gradually increased, however, the roles with symbolic meanings of regarding social class had been weakened. The major plasticities of hats can be generally analyzed based on the shape, material, technique, and ornament. As the time passed by to the end of the 20th century, flat-shape hats have been worn casually in both Western countries and Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.657-670
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• 2003

It is quite common today for bride to wear white-colored wedding-dress in wedding ceremony. When does the color date back to? What does the “white” mean? Which other colors had been used for wedding dress and why? This research paper aims to answer those historical questions through literature review. It is found here that the “white” began to be generally accepted for a wedding dress color in the 18th century, and that the color became an official one since the marriage of Queen Victoria's (i.e. 1840). Prior to that, other colors were taken rather than the “white”. In ancient Greece and Roma, “Red” and “Yellow” were used to remove devils or to bring fortune. In medieval society, luxurious wedding dresses were popular and various colors were adopted in order to show up family power among leading classes. The “White” has meant purity of bride since the 18th century. However, two world wars in the 20th century happened to lead some brides in economic difficulty wear “black” colored wedding dress for a practical reason. After the world wars, some light colors such as white, beige, ivory are to be used in wedding dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.197-206
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• 1981

This study focuses upon the custom of the headgear as a part of historical research on our traditional student uniform. It covers from Sam Kuk period(三國鼎立時代) of which we have found written records of formal education through the period under Japanese colonialism: The followings briefly summerizes the results of this study; 1) The educational civilization. The formalism of national education had been similar to that of China. It's main contents consisted of Chinese literature and practice of confucianism. It's objectives had been the education of selected men of ability, most of whom were the offspring of the high class. The education contents after the civilizational period had been gradually modernized for the purpose of westernization. 2) The changes of students' headgear. They had worn the Nakwon of Julpoong style (折風形羅冠) in the Sam Kuk period. They had worn Bok-Doo in the unified Silla dynasty, and Sadaimoolla-Kun (四帶文羅巾), Pyungjung-Kun (平頂巾) and Pyungjung-Dookun (平頂頭巾) in Koryo dynasty. They had worn Yoo-Kun (儒巾), Bok-Kun (福巾) in Yi dynasty. The noticeable distinction under Japanese colonialism had been the custom uniformity from headgear to footwear. Middle school educatee had worn round cap and professional school and college educatees had worn square hats.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.113-140
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• 1981

"Jung Ri Eui Kwae" is the book, illustrated and recorded with court coutesy and manners during the King, Jung Jo's honoured coming to his own father's royal tomb "Hyun Ryung Won" of Sa Do Seh Ja(The Crown Prince to be mourned) with his own mother Hae Kyung Koong Mrs. Hong. According to this book, we can see the costumes and its ornaments of the civil and military officials and also of Yu Ryung(the maden court musician) and Dong Ki (a young Kisaeng girl) during serving at Bong Soo Dang bangquet celebrating his own mother's 60th birthday anniversary. It is interesting to review once more the royal ceremonies representing the portion of the costumes and its ornaments in the 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, Yung-Jung Jo era that is to be thought the reform period in almost every field of social system.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.29-41
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• 1996

A 'TEXT' is a basic unit of culture. It is also the whole of culture organization which is generalizing a culture. Literary texts which are reflection of the culture could be understood as historical discourse. This thesis which is based on the 'Semiotic theory', 'Victor Turner's Performance theory', and Sung Man Lee's 'Information Model', classified the type of meaning to explain how to communicate the meaning of thing which were described in novels, for examples, background, dress, dialogue, era, etc. An interpreter (reader) should understand the culture described in novels to clarify the ambiguous significance. An interpretative theory of symbolic meaning described in text was presented in this thesis, and it was applied to analysis Myung Hee Choi's novel, 'Honbul'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.956-966
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to find out a suitable cleaning method for excavated textiles of Jeon-ui Lee(1570∼1647). The textiles were excavated from her tomb in 1997, and her descendents put them in a box without any treatment and kept them in the warehouse since then. We used two kinds of silk as samples, non-dyed and dyed textile. The experiment was performed by 8 kinds of wet cleaning and dry cleaning methods, an ultrasonic cleaner was used in the wet cleaning, decane and perchloroethylene were used as solvents in the dry cleaning. The use of the ultrasonic cleaner in the wet cleaning method did not show any damage to the fibers of the textiles and it not only cleaned well but also was safe for the fugitive dyes. It resulted in more effective cleaning when the detergent was used together. Therefore, it is effective to use the ultrasonic cleaning on the delicate historical textiles and helpful to the operator's safety and environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1347-1360
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• 2009

Historical compliance with economics in a political interchange accepts the elements of multiculturalism to develop a new field in the research with China. New research seeks to point out the characteristics of the Baekje dress style in relation to studies on East Asian fashion that observe the role and place of Baekje apparel. This study reveals the formation background of Baekje dress culture. Examined are the cognitive world of Baekje dress culture. The study reveals the form of the three Baekje Kings and royal dress.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.273-286
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• 2016

Traditional Chinese operas are time-honored art form, they are vivid in expression, rich in content, embody social, thought-provoking, historical and artistic value. And as a splendid art form and part of China's brilliant traditional cultural heritage, traditional Chinese operas have been developed with Chinese history from generation to generation. Nowadays, with the comprehensive national strength increasingly growing, Chinese government is giving more and more importance to enhance people's awareness of protecting traditional Chinese opera. In actual fact, both Chinese scholars and the other scholars who have done some research in traditional Chinese operas and built up solid foundation for further study. Even though, traditional Chinese operas have not been fully understood by people outside the 5000-year-old civilization, especially what is the close relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas. Based on this condition, the paper selects and summarizes names of apparel and accessories in traditional Chinese dramas as its thesis, intending to explore the relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas, analyzing how such names in dramas highlight themes and promote the development of unique storylines. The paper will help Western readers further understand the meaning of traditional operas names' behind these costumes and promote Chinese traditional dramas spreading to abroad.