• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.52-75
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to classify the historical features of mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion with a focus on 'Nora Noh', who is a first generation Korean fashion designer. The specific questions of this research are as follows: how did mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion and the Nora Noh brand develop and what is the relationship between the two? What are the important features of Korean women's fashion design in the mid-to-late twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in Korean women's fashion and Nora Noh's fashion? This paper conducted the research by focusing on the Korean fashion development as a background of simplification in the way of dressing and specific historical incident. Researchers deployed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing content as well as eleven oral statement interviews and the case study of Nora Noh. The result shows that Nora Noh is one of the first generation of Korean fashion designers who led fashion trend and system in Korea. The designer also influenced Korean commercial fashion in the 1970s and American fashion trends in the 1980s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.123-137
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• 2016

Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽], which was published in the late Joseon Dynasty, was representative reinterpretation book of Ga-ryae [家禮] and it was a widely used and cited in the late Joseon Dynasty. This book contains Confucian values about the ritual of Confucian scholars of Joseon Dynasty. This study is a description of historical investigation and production of men's mourning dress based on Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽] the result, of the study shows empirical attitude of Confucian scholasr in the late Joseon Dynasty. Through industrialization, traditional culture has been able to survive through preservation. Wearing the traditional mourning dress is not the only way to embody the traditional values in the modern society. It is will be necessary to study contemporary mourning dress as a reflection of traditional value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1014-1024
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• 2009

The cultural content industry can be stimulated by the production of content based on Korean traditional culture such as Korean court culture. At present, the use of royal costumes of various Korean dynasties for content creation is rare. Less than ten government-supported projects managed by the Korea Culture & Content Agency (KOCCA) are related with Korean royal costumes. Only a handful of tourism-related cultural products (e.g., souvenirs and theme parks) are related to this subject. Fortunately, there are many events that demonstrate traditional court ceremonies; however, there is a need for more investment in academic research to ensure accurate reproduction. There are a number of issue in utilizing traditional royal costumes to produce cultural content that include: a lack of understanding the importance of Korean royal costumes, discrepancies of the content produced based on the historical context, a lack of public knowledge or support, and the lack of the historical accuracy of reproduced content. In order to benefit the most from royal costumes, this article suggests recreating the costumes as a source for further content creation, the development of a database to store information by design features and itemized topics, along with the active support of the government.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.145-157
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest new designs and patterns for men's coat by deconstructing and restructuring 18th and 19th century men's coat. In the postmodern society, the reinterpretation of the past fashion trends or items through extensive historical investigation has been frequently used as new design motifs and the new source of creative fashion design. Especially in the contemporary society, as multifarious forms and presentations are emphasized even in the men's fashion, it is urgently required more than ever to do thorough and extensive research for the design and structure of men's fashion. Therefore, through historical research on men's fashion, the 18th and 19th century men's coat, which is generally considered to be the most developed one in the concept and shape of 'coat,' has been reinterpreted and deconstructed to make new design for men's coat which corresponds to the trends and sensibility of contemporary fashion. In addition to this, to facilitate practical use of this new design by fashion public, the plane patterns for the actual production of these coat designs were presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.169-186
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• 1996

Wangeja Chulgungdo (The Painting for a Crown Prince's Outgoing for Schooling to Sungkyunkwan) for this study which is held by the Korean university Museum is a kind of documentary paintings which not only have the value of art history but also give a glimpse of the court ceremonies for a Crown Prince. This painting offers various historical clues to understand the procedure for a Crown Prince's official entrance of Sungkyunkwan participants of the ceremony and other ceremony-related items$\ulcorner$Wangseja chulgungdo$\lrcorner$ was the painting drawn for a series of court procedures of Crown Prince Munjo's official en-trance of Sungkynkwan. When he was old enough to begin learning Sohak on March 11. 1817 that is ; he held Heonjakrye(a ceremony for offering drinks to the ancestors) at Munmyo passed Iphakye(a ceremony for en-trance of school) at Myungryundang and received Suharye the next day. $\ulcorner$Wangseja Chulgungdo$\lrcorner$ had the strong char-acteristics of documentary paintings in terms of art history which was intended to leave the historical event of a Crown Prince's entrance. It reflected the traits of documentary painting style in late Chosun Dynasty; a technique that strongly relieved the ceremonial scenes against the background such as mountains and rivers; a painting that not only captured the vivid actions of personalities ar the crucial moment of the ceremony but also depicted the cer-emonial vessels and items very realistically. Authors could confirm the ceremonial think-ing of the traditional society through a Crown Prince's entrance which controlled the details of every part of the performances of the court ceremony.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.113-124
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• 2005

Information sources about Mongolian pigtail of 13-14C are relatively rich. But it was difficult to estimate the shape of the pigtail in detail with the descriptions in historical writing or travel books only, and paintings were neither enough to observe the beautiful shape of the pigtail closely on the whole because the portrayed characters were always wearing their hats. However, the authors could trace the detailed shape of the pigtail of 13-14C through close investigation into Mongolian stone statue of the period. In conclusion, the authors performed a comparative study by historically comparing the historical writings, archeological materials, ethnological materials and figurative arts featuring medieval Mongolian pigtail. And the authors paid careful attention to the meaning of those materials to the hairdo history. Historically nothern minority races have become assimilated with surrounding races in language, culture and customs through long economical and cultural exchange, and today their national traits gradually fade away by globalization. But each minority race still stands independently and maintain its own traditional culture. only recently began the study by Korean researchers on Mongolian pigtail, and there is still much to be discussed in ethnological issues such as racial pedigree.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.45-59
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• 2006

The change into the information society converts people's daily lift into nomadic lifestyle, and this change of lifestyle needs to reinforce the portability in fashion. The purpose of this study is to know the historical diversion of the rallying system, characteristics and reason of this change after recognizing of the implication of fashion and portable methods. The carrying system from the primitive age to modern society was changed from use of body to designing potable equipments - belts, wrapping cloths, bags, pockets, etc. These are changed by modifying of the form of society and fashion. This change result from the development of technique, the entry of women in public affair, the change of life style, the impoverishment of nature. The carrying system of modern fashion means not only the spares in the clothing, but also a new attached system in which nomadic necessities are transformed or unified. The carrying system becomes one of the important details which designers cannot neglect in designing, and must be. developed with consideration of use and function.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.60-73
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• 2011

The movie costumes, artistic and figurative, serve to maximize the dramatic conveying effect of the movie's theme, actor's character, and the image of a dramatic situation expressed through clothing. It is considered that research would be meaningful if it studied on how the movie costumes are implied with symbols in order to present a dramatic image depending on the situation. Therefore this research compared, analyzed, and interpreted the historical plays produced on historical backgrounds, "The Sword With No Name" and 'Elizabeth - Golden Age'. In other words, five dramatic situations were extracted in order to compare and analyze the costumes of Empress Myeongseong to the costumes of Queen Elizabeth. The costumes presented according to the storyline and the personalities of the two characters with these five as the basis are compared and analyzed, and the implied symbolic meaning could be interpreted and analogized based on the results. Therefore it is suggested that symbolic meaning, along with the expression of the dramatic atmosphere, needs to be implied in the design of the movie costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.155-171
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• 2007

Exaggerated expressions of contemporary fashion have exceeded historical precedents in volume. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetic characteristics of expanded form In contemporary fashion. To take dresses beyond their flat shapes into three-dimensional forms, it was investigated into volume of dresses by using the void and the mass. The void Is rarefied space and the mass is densified space. The void of dresses could be constructed from the boning such as panier and stiff textiles as organza lining. The mass could be constructed from padding. Fold, pleats, twist, and the layering of fabrics show features of both the void and the mass. Contemporary fashion designers relied on the void rather that the mass to make the enormous volume because of the weight of the mass. X-silhouette and the expansion of skirt and sleeve were dominant as the result of accentuating the body with a waistline. However, many of expanded dresses were so voluminous that they obscured the body's outlines. Some forms were strange and shocking. Many designers explored the void and there were a multitude of methods to construct the void: compartments of air, architectural techniques, technical textiles, fold such at origami. The aesthetic consciousness of expanded dresses could be classified into 7 categories, the giant, the dynamic, the deconstructive, the historical, the comedic, the rhythmical, and the technical character.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.265-282
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• 1994

The mask used in drama has been reappreciated, and it needs profound and systematic studies in order to form the mask to effective use. In research, the aesthestic values in the masks of he latter period of Chosun(the mideighteenth century-the early nineteenth century) was examined through the analysis of traditional drama in accordance with the historical social background. In the later period of Chosun, the active performance of the mask in company with the occurrence of a popular movement caused by people's self-awakening showed a close relationship between the development of the mask and its historical background the moulding characteristic of the mask was analysed before and after the eighteenth century, and regionally in the south and in the middle and the north. The mask express the quality of art before he eighteenth century. It showed, on the other hand, a strong social nature and a touch of satires on society in the south and a religional interest in he middle and the north. This study shows from the viewpoint of a aesthetics that traditional Korean mask during Chosun period had comfortable and voluminous forms with beauty curved lines and colors and rhythm. The aesthetic values in mask as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics have been classified the beauty of nature the beauty of personality, the beauty of traditions. Visual image with these beauty in masks were expressed into fashion illustration of suits and dresses.