• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.65-81
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• 1981

I referred to documents to study the origin and the progressing process of textiles. Cotton seeds were first imported from China by Mun, Ik Jem at the end of the era of Koryeo, and cotton had several different names such as mok-myen, cho-myen, gil-pae, baek-chep-za, tap-po, ban-ki-wha, dong-yep-po and so on. Since the era of the Three Kingdoms, people had heard of cloth of superior quality but it was not certain whether it was imported from China or made in our country. It seems that cotton was not made during that period, white silk, hemp cloth, and ramie fabric were produced. At that time, linen was called cotton by mistake. After importing cotton seeds from China, all the people began to plant them and made their clothes from them. At the beginning of the Yi Dynasty, the weaving technique was dependent on China. However, the government persuaded farmers to plant them. At that time cotton was used as a means of purchasing instead of money. Silkworms raising started during the era of the Three Kingdoms and it was widely spread at the beginning of the Yi Dynasty. In order to encourage sericulture' spinning and weaving instruments were installed in the royal palace and the queen with sher court maids demonstrated how to spin and weave. The activity was named "chin-jam-ye." Linen was the representative of all textiles and it was also very popular. The technique of weaving had already been highly developed at the era of Silla. During the era of the Three Kingdoms people used "bang-chu-cha" as a weaving instrument. They discovered several new hand machines in the period of the Yi Dynasty: they were instrument of removing seeds, spinning wheel, hemp cloth loom and so on, and we find the remains of them these days.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.1060-1069
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• 2004

We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.183-190
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• 2016

A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.102-120
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• 2005

Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.

• 한국전자현미경학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.71-74
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• 2007

천연 대마섬유의 UVB 차단 효과를 조사하고자 mouse를 4개의 그룹으로 구분하여 자외선을 조사한 뒤 외이의 조직절편을 제작하여 비교 분석하였다. 자외선을 직접 조사한 실험군[U], 대마섬유로 차단한 뒤 자외선을 조사한 실험군[H], 폴리에스테르 섬유로 차단한 후 자외선을 조사한 실험군[P], 자외선을 조사하지 않은 대조군[C]으로 나누어 실험한 후 광학현미경하에서 피부 조직의 변화를 관찰하였다. 대조군[C] 외이조직의 상피세포층 두께는 $16.3\;{\mu}m$이었지만, 자외선을 직접 조사한[U]군의 상피세포층은 $65.4\;{\mu}m$, [H]군은 $33.3\;{\mu}m$, [P]군은 $41.0\;{\mu}m$의 두께 변화를 보였다. 또한, 정상적인 외이의 상피세포의 단면적은 $22.0\;{\mu}m^2$이었으나, 자외선을 직접 조사한 [U]군의 상피세포층은 $37.7\;{\mu}m^2$, [H]군은 $30.1\;{\mu}m^2$, [P]군은 $30.2\;{\mu}m^2$이었다. 따라서 천연 대마섬유와 합성 폴리에스테르섬유 모두 UVB를 차단하는 능력을 갖고 있지만 전자가 후자보다 더 효과적으로 UVB를 차단함을 알 수 있었다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.161-171
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• 2022

Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.6
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• pp.96-110
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• 1985

This report is briefly thied to introduce the kinds of clothes for the body of deceased and special features of remains in the era of the middle of Yidynasty found in Changheung IM's tomb, and some remarks related to the conservation treatment for shrouds as well. The contents of this report are summed up as follows:1. Included with the clothes of dead body of IM's clan were 2 pcs. Of woman's jacket, 2 pcs. of underpants, 1pcs. of single layered overcoat twithout cotton, 1pcs.of women's overcoat with a single layered thin cotton inside, women's socks, cushoned mattress, straw shoes and other hemp fabrics etc. By the observation of these remains, it is considered that they dressed the deceased with new cloth taken from the unsuals not prepared specially and stored beforehand for such as occasion as does it nowadays.2. As to the conservation treatment, the materials were comparatively good and so they employed general tank washing method with special neutrality liquid soap(made by Lab, of Household Products, Pacific R & D Center) for cleaning imbrued matrials on the clothes. After cleaning and drying naturally at a shade place, remains put into apaulowania tree box were fumigated by mixed gas (M. B. + E. O.) for prevention of damages from fungi and insects.3. Desirable environment control for scientific conservation of such kinds of cellulose textiles is to be illuminated at below 50Lux, temperature 16-18℃, relative humidity 45-60%($\pm$4%) and removed the dust. For the prevention of the damaging fungi and insects, it is desirable to fumigate by mixed gas (M.B.+E.O.) once a year.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.219-238
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• 2014

This study attempted to investigate present condition and product planning of global eco-fashion brands that harmonize fashion and sustainability. As research subjects, this study selected 97 oversea fashion brands mentioned in books related to eco-fashion, Black(2011), Brown(2010), Fuad-luke(2009). As for research methods, materials and ethical practices of these selected 97 brands through literature data and their internet site homepages. This study analyzed oversea eco-brands collected 26 British brands, 22 American brands, 36 European brands such as Germany, France, Italy, Sweden, Spain, Finland and so on, except Britain and 13 other regions including Japan, India, Canada, Mexico, and New zealand. In conclusion, the product planning characteristics of these oversea eco-fashion brands can be summarized as follows; community and fair trade, ecological and slow design, recycle, reuse, redesign, and new eco-models. Firstly, brands of 'community and fair trade' manufactured products through fair trade and local community's artisan by ethical practices with organic fabrics. Secondly, brands of 'ecological and slow design' pursued timeless design and multi-functional design as luxury eco-fashion styles. They used organic textiles, hemp, bamboo, soya, tencell, sea cell, and self-sustaining plants. Thirdly, brands of 'recycle, reuse, redesign' aimed for upcycling high-end fashion and used vintage clothes, textile scraps, PET, parachutes, tires, safety belts, advertising banner and so on. In addition, brands of 'new models as eco-fashion' suggested zero-waste cutting, recycling over-printing technology, new sustainable business model, and ethical practices in the supply chain of the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.39
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• pp.243-280
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• 2006

At the Bujang-ri Site, Seosan, South Chungcheong Province, around 220 archaeological features, including semi-subterranean houses and pits of Bronze Age and semi-subterranean houses, pits, and burials of Baekje period had been identified and investigated. In Particular, mound burials No. 5 of 13 of Baekje mound burials yielding a gilt-bronze cap along with other valuable artifacts drew international scholarly attention. The gilt-bronze cap from the mound burial No. 5 is a significant archaeological data not only in the study of Baekje archaeology but also in the study of international affairs and exchange at that time. At the time of exposure, the gilt-bronze cap was already broken into a number of pieces and seriously damaged by corrosion, and hardening and urethane foam were necessary in the process of collecting its pieces. Ahead of main conservational treatments on cap, X-ray photograph and CT(computerizes tomography) were taken in order to examine interior structure of the cap and to decide appropriate treatments. In the five layers identified in the profile of cap, a textile layer was set between a metal and a layerof bark of paper birch for avoiding direct contact of the metal and the bark of paper birch. Analyses were executed for examining textile layer and a layer of fibroid material. According to microscopic analysis, while the textile layer consisted of the simplest plain fabric with one fold among three kinds of textile structures, the layer of fibroid material was mixed with two or three kinds of fibers. A comparative analysis with standard sample using FT-IR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy) announced that both textiles and fabrics were hemp. Analysis of kind of the paper birch resulted in barks of paper birch with 15 fold. A metallographic microscope, SEM, and WDS were used for the analysis of microscopic structures of plated metal pieces. While amalgam plating was treated as a plating method, the thickness of the plated layer, a barometer of plating technique, was ranged from $1.72{\mu}m$ to $8.67{\mu}m$. The degree of purity of gold (Au) used in plating was 98% in average, and less than 1% of silver (Ag) was included.