• Title/Summary/Keyword: Hemline

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A Study on Based on the Possibility of Quantitative Analysis using Virtual Clothing Simulation according to Raglan Sleeve Pattern Types (가상 착의 시뮬레이션을 이용한 래글런 소매 패턴 변화에 따른 착의 시 정량적 분석 가능성 모색)

  • Lee, Ye-Jin;Lee, Byung-Cheol
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.21 no.2
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    • pp.299-314
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study was to explore effects of pattern alteration using a virtual clothing simulation approach in combination with 3D analysis software. Three raglan sleeves of different patterns were worn by an avatar using virtual clothing simulation with silk and cotton as the test fabrics. It was observed that the silhouette and hemline shape were affected differently based on raglan sleeve pattern and fabric type. By examining clothing pressure distribution, the cotton fabric designs and pattern shapes provided for a variety of influences on armhole and bust regions as well as the back sleeve area. For representative locations, cross section circumstance, cross section area, and volume were measured by using 3D analysis and the resulting correlation between the 2D and 3D data were investigated. Among different fabrics, there was little difference between the 2D and 3D clothing surface area. However, when using 3D analysis, clothing volume was significantly affected by different fabrics and pattern types. By simultaneously adopting the virtual simulator and 3D analysis, quantitative assessment of virtual clothing simulation was successfully conducted. In light of the results of this study, the resulting methodology is expected to be used as a comprehensive evaluation tool for virtual clothing simulation wear testing.

A study on the Decoration of Women's costume style from the 18th century to the 19th century (18세기부터 19세기까지 여성 복식스타일에 나타난 장식에 관한 연구)

  • Son, Hyo-Rim;Kim, Jeong-Mee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.29-47
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    • 2018
  • This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

A Development of Functional Motorcycle Jacket for Quick Service Transporter (퀵서비스 운송업자를 위한 기능적 모터사이클 재킷 개발)

  • Sohn, Jae Min;Oh, Song-Yun;Kim, Eun Kyong
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.5
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    • pp.781-792
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    • 2015
  • This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.

Development of an Air Cushion Vest (공기주입형 쿠션 베스트 개발)

  • Son, Sue-Min;Choi, Hei-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.36 no.2
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    • pp.179-193
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    • 2012
  • The development of modern transportation technology has required many people in spaces (such as vehicle seats, airports, and train stations) for long periods. The public seats provided in these places are manufactured in a standard size; however, fatigue sets in if the seats are unsuitable for the person's physical size. For this reason, this study developed an air cushion vest that would enhance the comfort of vehicle seats. Passengers in vehicles, trains, airplanes, and buses were observed and surveyed to understand the demand for seat comfort. Our analysis found that the greatest source of discomfort was involuntary nodding of the head while asleep and discomfort around the waist area. For this reason, the air cushion vest was designed to support the head and the waist. The neck cushion of this vest was designed to strengthen head support to counter forward nodding because existing commercial neck cushions had no support for forward nodding. For the waist cushion, at lumbar and below-lumbar parts were chosen as the key parts to be supported, the cushion was designed to contain air at those parts. To cover the embedded waist cushion, the vest was designed to be long. The closure was constructed with zippers from the neck to waistline, and with invisible snaps from the waistline to the hemline so that the wearer could open them easily while seated. A subjective comfort evaluation was conducted to verify the effectiveness of the developed vest. In the test, the developed cushions received a better evaluation than cushions currently available on the market. The volume of the vest could be adjusted by the inflow and outflow of air. It was proven that the vest was effective in terms of comfort and portability. This shows that the developed vest could enhance passenger comfort while sitting on vehicle seats.

A Study on Wedding Dress Design of popular stars in Korea (한국 대중스타의 시대별 웨딩드레스 디자인 분석)

  • Lee, Eun-Jung;Chang, Geung-Hae
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.85-94
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    • 2006
  • In Korea, popular stars were the leaders of the latest fashion, who had the strong power in apparel market. Costume, especially wedding dress they worm became the focus of interest to single women of marriageable age and wedding dress co. This study was performed to research wedding dress design (silhouette, veil, sleeves, materials, and details) from 1960's to June. 2004. Resources were extracted from the weddings photos, 'My Wedding' magazine, 'Vogue Korea' magazine and web sites. The materials, which could not be judged on the photos, were researched from text articles. The popular stars were TV stars, musicians, and actresses. The results of this study were as follows: The wedding dress in Korea from 1960's to June 2004 had different distinguishing characteristics. 1. In 1960's, wedding dress was characterized with A silhouette, long veil, set in sleeves, and hair decoration. 2. In 1970's, H silhouette decorating by belt, long veil, puff sleeves, and ruffles hemline were in vogue. 3. In 1980's, Victorian style designed by long and wide width, the leg of mutton sleeves or tightly fitted sleeves, short veil and pearl coronet, flower decoration became popular. 4. In 1990's, to reach the elegance or romantic image, it was used race, ribbon, frill, etc., on the base of 1980's wedding dress design. Generally the girlish styles which expressed innocent and pure and feminine were in fashion. 5. In 2000's, the keyword of both luxury and simple were intended. Silhouette was designed variously, but it became slimmer and simpler. The decoration was splendorous with race, embroidery, and beads.

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A Study on Seon of the Ming(明) Dynasty Costume (중국(中國) 명대(明代) 복식(服飾)의 선에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Sang-Eun
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.97-109
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    • 1997
  • Sean means a narrow cloth added to the edge of costume or cushion. At the beginning, Seon was originated to prevent from fraying warp of cloth or wearing out of cloth. However, with the progress of clothing culture, it is used to satisfy the human desire of decoration and enhance the function of costume. The Seon appeared on costumes of Ming dynasty was simple compared to that of the period preceeding it. The position of Seon was mostly at neckline, end of sleeves and hemline. The width of Seon also was quite monotonous and lacks of varieties. The patterns of Seon were limited to ax, cloud and dragon and cloud and chinese phoenix. And the colors used were also limited to four colors, namely Blue, Red Crimson and Black. In Ming dynasty, the same colors of Seon as those of the costume were more preferably used, while different colors of Seon were used in the previous era. The reason why Seon in Ming dynasty show simple design and use the same colors as those of the costume was due to Ming dynasty's desire to represent and to enhance her castic political structure. The need for class distinction was expressed through the pattern rather than the colors of the costumes themselves. While, in Ming dynasty, Bo(補) which was attached to the breast and the shoulders was used to represent the social class because it could be easily distinguished. In Ming dynasty, to stress Bo and to make Seon less conspicuous, Seon became simple and the colors of Seon were same as those of the costumes avoiding strong contrast in style and colors.

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Drape Evaluation of 3D Garment Simulations for Flared Skirts

  • Lee, Joohyun;Kim, Hyun Ah;Nam, Yun Ja;Ryu, Hyo Seon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.128-136
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    • 2014
  • The virtual try-on technologies of the current level have limitations with material expression as well as some difficulties with commercialization. There are differences in simulation results and subjective evaluations perceived by consumers according to the types and physical characteristics of materials used in virtual try-on simulations. This study were to analyze the exterior clothing shapes and visual images from 3D virtual try-on simulations with materials whose drapability was differentiated and then test the accuracy of the expression of the drapability of the materials. The study carried out 3D virtual try-on simulations by selecting flared skirts as an item to best express differences in drapability along with five materials of different physical properties and offered some basic data for greater utilization of virtual try-on simulations by comparing and analyzing them with the exterior shapes and visual images of actual flared skirts. The analysis results of hemline shapes between actual and virtual try-on according to the types of materials showed no match among the quantitative items of exterior shapes factors. There were no significant differences in the visual images except for "soft" according to the simulation methods, which means that the items can serve as part of a scale for visual image comparison. It is necessary to reflect quantitative numbers regarding "drapability" proposed in the study simulation software and to continue to build a systematic database for virtual simulations by investigating and testing various materials.

Comparison of the old-old aged women's pants pattern by lower body shape using 3D simulation

  • Cha, Su-Joung
    • Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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    • v.23 no.7
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    • pp.63-72
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the pants pattern of the lower body of 70-85 aged women. I tried to present excellent pants pattern that is convenient and suitable for the activities of elderly women. Through this, I tried to provide basic data necessary for making elderly women 's pants. As a result of evaluating the appearance of the pants pattern according to the body type, the fit of the type 2 was evaluated as the highest in the item except the position of the front waist line. For the objective evaluation of the 3D simulation, the air gap of the pants by the body part analysis showed that there was not much difference in the air gap around the waist circumference, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and knee circumference by applying the same drawing method and body size. However, in type 2, the air gap of thigh and knee circumference parts was larger than that of type 1 and type 3. Because type 2's legs were thin but it used same size of hemline. It was thought that it is necessary to adjust the space of front and back crotch length to 1 inch (2.54 cm) instead of 1.9 cm (3/4 inch) so that the waistline position of all three types can be set up a little to cover the abdomen. This study was conducted to investigate changes in body shape of elderly women and to develop appropriate pants patterns.

Effect on Consumers' Product Perceptions of National and Private Brand Clothing according to Consumer Decision-marketing Style (소비자 의상결정유형에 따른 전국상표와 자체상표의 제품 지각차이에 관한 연구)

  • 신수연;권영아
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.22 no.7
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    • pp.851-861
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    • 1998
  • The present study examined the consumer's evaluations of apparel quality and price, and the brand recognition according to the consumer's decision making styles(quality-conscious, brand-conscious, and price-conscious consumers). The two hundred and three subjects were asked to evaluate the quality and price of the two almost identical experimental blouses except for brand labels. One was the national brand, Keith and the other was the private brand, Ivy house. Also, the subjects were asked to answer if they recognize these two brands. The data were collected by self-administered questionnaire and were analyzed by frequency, percentage, one-way ANOVA, two-way ANOVA, and factor analysis. The results of the study were as floows: (1) Examining the perceptions of product qualities, generally speaking, all three types of the consumers evaluated the national brand's qualities more highly than those of the private brand. However, in-part, the price-conscious consumers evaluated some product charac-teristics more highly than those of national brand: touch of fabric, sewing, and the hemline finishing. (2) Investigating the perceptions of product prices, All three types of the consumers evaluated the price of the national brand more highly than that of the private brand. Among those, the price-conscious consumers recognized the price of the national brands most expensively. (3) Identifying the brand recognition of the two brands, the brand-conscious consumers showed the highest brand recognition and the price-conscious consumers showed the lowest brand recognition in both national and private brands, 51.9% of the total respondents identified the private brand showing comparatively high brand recognition. (4) Examining the relationship between the demographic factors and the consumer decision making styles, the monthly household income was statistically significant. Namely, 71.4% of the brand-conscious consumers have the monthly household income of 3,000,000 Won or higher which means that the higher monthly household income, the higher tendency to be brand-conscious consumers.

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A Study on the Fit Preferences of the Tailored Jacket for Women Using 3D Clothes Modeling System (3차원 의상 모델링 시스템을 이용한 여성용 테일러드 재킷의 맞음새 평가)

  • Do, Wol-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.36 no.9
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    • pp.940-951
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    • 2012
  • This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.