• Human Ecology Research
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.13-21
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• 2021

In order to examine the changes in the appearance properties and the post-adhesion appearance properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics : 100% Hanji yarn fabric, two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and 100% cotton fabric, were selected and fused with three kinds of interlinings. After fusing, changes of standardized KES values were examined. 1. W/T, B/W of Hanji yarn blended fabrics was higher than that cotton fabric. WC/W, 2HB/W, 2HB/B, and 2HG/G values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics are lower than cotton fabric. This means that the Hanji yarn was mixed, shape retention, wrinkle recovery was improved, and the drape property was lowered. 2. After fusing, W/T, shape retention, wrinkle recovery of Hanji yarn blended fabrics increased, and WC/W values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics decreased. The wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were improved; however, the 2HG/G value of Hanji yarn fabric increased due to fusing, and the wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn fabric decreased. 3. In the selection of adhesive core, I1 adhesive core is excellent in terms of shape stability and wrinkle recovery; however, an I3 adhesive core is recommended for drape and silhouette formation. When the fabric of the adhesive core was PET, it was found to penetrate better between the fabrics during adhesion than the case of cotton fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.159-174
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• 2020

We selected 100% cotton fabric, 100% Hanji yarn fabric and two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and fused them with three kinds of interlinings in order to examine changes to the physical properties and the post-adhesion physical properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Changes in KES values were examined after fusing. First, EM, B, 2HB, MMD values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were higher than cotton fabric, and LT, RT, G, 2HG, LC, WC values of cotton fabric were higher than Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Tensile recovery was lowered, bending stiffness was increased, and shear stiffness was lowered when Hanji yarn was mixed. Second, the KES value of LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, LC, WC increased after fusing, while the EM, MMD values decreased. SMD was shown to decrease or increase depending on the type of fabric. The adhesive effect on bending stiffness and shear stiffness due to the mixing of Hanji shows a different tendency in the comparison of α_B and α_G.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.543-562
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• 2024

This study used persimmon juice, shuliang, and mud to develop the color of hanji fabrics. Persimmon juice and shuliang were used to perform single and mixing dyeing with heat treatment using the pad-dry-cure (PDC) method. Next, mud dyeing was performed, and the hanji fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and shuliang were developed into Yellow Red (YR) Munsell colors with very low values and chroma. Through scanning electron microscopy, the persimmon juice and shuliang were observed to be evenly treated on the hanji fabrics using the PDC method. Furthermore, the presence of iron ions in the dyed fabrics was confirmed using inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry analysis. The stiffness of the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was the greatest, while it gradually decreased for the fabrics treated with mixing and mud dyeing. With mixing dyeing, the colorfastness to washing improved to grade 4, whereas with mud dyeing, the colorfastness to alkaline sweat greatly improved to grade 4~4-5. Based on these findings, this study confirmed that it is possible to develop hanji fabrics with differentiated textures and colors while ensuring practical colorfastness through mixing and mud dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.82-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.866-877
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of hanji cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics in pre-mordanting. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. In the processing of hanji cotton fabrics, K/S value was high when hanji cotton fabric was treated with soybean milk at $90^{\circ}C$. Similar K/S value of dyeing was shown when fabrics were processed with chitosan, regardless of dyeing temperature. High K/S value of dyeing was seen when fabrics processed with gallnut tannin at 40. Fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed yellowish color. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color, and fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed greenish yellow color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness level was between 3 to 4, and other dyed fabrics showed low fastness. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness of the fabrics was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. Hanji cotton fabric maintained certain deodorization in the state of raw fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.151-158
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• 2013

This study presents basic knitted fabric data on the use of ply yarn with rayon yarn and eco-friendly/high-valued Hanji yarn. Physical properties (gauge, thickness, burst strength, air permeability, stiffness, Qmax, dimensional stability and surface image) of Hanji 100%, rayon 100% and Hanji/rayon 50:50 knitted fabrics are investigated. The results are as follows. Course direction of gauge decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > Hanji 100%. In addition wale direction of gauge decrease in the following order: Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > rayon 50/50. Thickness and air permeability decrease in the following order: Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > rayon 100%. Burst strength decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50. Stiffness and Qmax decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > Hanji 100%. Laundry for dimensional stability is knitted fabric with Hanji/rayon 50/50 than rayon 100% and Hanji 100% improved using neutral detergent and stable at $20^{\circ}C$. From surface image observation, the cracks of Hanji 100% and fibrils of rayon 100% decrease when using knitted fabric with Hanji/rayon 50/50.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

In this study, two hats and a laptop bag were developed and produced as cultural products by using Hanji-fabrics dyed with various natural dyeing materials. First of all, for the cultural product development, I selected Hanji-fabric which made with traditional Korean paper with excellent durability and functionality. Secondly, it was dyed blue with indigo, brown with green persimmon juice, red by safflower, yellow by amur cork and purple by gromwell root. Third, two hats and a laptop bag were designed. Fourth, according to the designs, patterns of two hats and a laptop bag were made. And then two hats and a laptop bag were finished by cutting and sewing Hanji-fabrics dyed in various colors.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.23-27
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• 2019

Korea boasts outstanding cultural heritage accumulated over the 5 thousand-year-long history, but has neglected developing marketable commercial products out of its culture. As a result, despite the fact that Korea had successfully developed internationally well-acknowledged technologies, there isn't any exceptional cultural product that can be marketed globally. Therefore, it is necessary to re-design and commercialize a modern sense using unique materials in traditional culture. Fabrics made by natural dyeing have a low saturation, so they do not need special color harmony, they are natural and comfortable. Therefore, fabrics obtained by natural dyeing are considered to be a very suitable material for cultural product development. In addition, Hanji is a good material that can build a field of art by itself because it has a quality, a profound and elegant feeling. In this study, Hanji-fabric, which is made of excellent Hanji, is used for natural dyeing with. Using the dyed fabrics, the cultural products such as two parasols and a card holder was made and presented.