• 융합정보논문지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.259-266
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• 2021

본 논문은 북한 헤어스타일과 북한 미용 산업현장의 실태를 파악하여 북한 여성들의 생활상을 이해하고 남북한의 내적 통합을 꾀하는데 일조하고자 하였다. 연구방법으로는 김정은 집권 이후 북한 매체, 언론매체, 북한이탈주민의 증언 등에서 나타난 북한 주민들의 외모관리행동을 살펴보고 그 중에서도 헤어행동에 대해 분석하였다. 연구 결과 김정은 정권 이후 유학자와 해외 물품 밀수를 통해 일부 개선되었음을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 북한의 미용 훈련기관인 미용술 보급소를 통해 미용교육이 체계적으로 이루어지고 있으며 고정적인 월급제에서 능력에 따른 수당제로 변화하였다는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구는 북한을 방문하여 연구하지 못하였다는 제한점이 보이고 있다. 향후 북한 헤어 관련 연구에 보탬이 될 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권3_4호
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• pp.449-461
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.105-117
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to help the understanding the characteristics in the costumes of men and women throughout the overall acceptance process of 'Naewaebub' in the late 'Chosun Dynasty' in which the notion of 'Naewae' is more prosperous than any other period in Korean history. Originally the distinction between man and woman was not intended to display the high and the low but to show the mutual respect according to each duty. As time goes on, that ideal became gradually changed to heighten the man and lower the women especially in 'Han' period of China. There was the ideal of distinction in the ancient times in Korea. Until 'Koryo Dinasty' the community has the system of blood-tied that put together maternal and paternal. 'Karye' was introduced in the late 'Koryo Dynasty' and accepted to the stereotype of morale in the 'Chosun Dynasty' and there seemed to be 'Samgang' and 'Oryun' at once. Many restrictions was imposed to behavior in women like rules of prohibition in attending the temple and concealment of woman's face and was recognized to rule of distinction between man and woman. Confucian life custom has been settled to Korean society throughout the late 16th century and 17th century and there were some appearances in the housing construction which divide the residences of man and woman. The characteristics in the costume from the avoidance of opposite sexes are clear in the structure of clothes changed from similar style to different style. The examples of those characteristics are as fellows. The costume in man was developed to advanced 'Pyoun-bokkwan' and 'Pyounbokpo' as social action of man prospered. Meanwhile the trousers which had been the same in the man and woman were separated to different trousers between man and woman. The costume life style of woman was changed to using the a hair whirl, hiding the face in the street and overlapping the innerwear under the skirt which was extension of woman's closed life style in late 'Chosun Dynasty'.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.87-93
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• 1969

우리나라에서 재배하고 있는 면화 품종 목포005, Red leaf, Paymaster, Acala 1517w 등에 대하여 수정현상과 면모발생 및 발육에 관해서 비교조사하였다. (1) 화분은 수분 4시간후부터 발아신장하고, 수분 10시간이면 화주의 기부에 달하고 수분 18시간이면 태좌를 거쳐 주공에 진입한다. (2) 화분관이 주공에 진입할때는 1개의 매조세포를 뚫고 들어가기 때문에 수정후에는 1개의 매조세포만 남는다. (3) 수분 18-485시간이면 수정이 전부 완료되는데 목포 005가 빠르고 Paymaster는 늦으며 Red leaf는 그 중간이다. (4) 면모는 표피세포의 분열에 의하여 생긴 낭세포가 신장하는데 개화전부터 시작한다. (5) 면모는 수분후 1시간에 발생수가 가장 많아 약 60-80%이고 4-6시간에 거의 완료되는데 배주의 상부보다 기부에 많고 내측면보다 외측면에 많다. (6) 평균 면모장은 수분 1시간이면 2.7-8.3$^{\mu} m$, 수분 4-48시간이 되면 43.8-263.7$^{\mu} m$ 신장하는데 목포 005, Red leaf는 신장속도가 거의 같고 Paymaster는 늦은 편이다.

• 한국기록관리학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.67-85
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• 2004

일본(日本)의 각 박물관에 소장 혹은 기탁되고 있는 감지금니의 네 권의 고려사경 "대방광불화엄경(大方廣佛華嚴經)"은 표지화에서 독특한 양식을 나타내고 있다. 고려시대 사경표지화는 일반적으로 3개 혹은 4개의 연화를 당초문양이 지그재그로 감고 있는데 비해, 이들 네 권의 사경은 금니로 그린 10개의 연화(蓮華)를 그린 표지화가 양식적으로 같아, 네 권 중에 그 어느 것에도 발원문은 없지만, 80화엄경 한 질이었다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 먼저 네 권의 "대방광불화엄경(大方廣佛華嚴經)" 사경변상화의 내용에 관한 고찰을 하였고, 표지화와 변상화를 통해 양식분석을 행했다. 그 결과 제작연대를 밝힐 수 있었다. 코발트색으로 여래의 보발(寶髮)이 칠해져 있다는 점에서는 충숙왕 13년(1326)인 태정(泰定) 3년(三年)에 발원(發願)한 "문수최상승무생계법(文殊最上乘無生戒法)"의 변상화와 같고, 보발 가운데 그려진 계주와 입술이 완전히 분홍색으로 칠해져 있으며, 귀 얼굴 윤곽선 통견의(通肩衣) 사이로 드러난 가슴의 윤곽선 역시 분홍색이라는 점과 여래의 불안(佛顔)이 금니로 도색(塗色) 되고 있다는 점에서는 일본(日本) 금택(金澤) 대승사(大乘寺) 송강(松江) 천륜사본(天倫寺本)이나 일본(日本) 우하사본(羽賀寺本) 사경변상화에 나타나는 특징과 같다. 그러나 지운문(地雲紋)의 양식은 충숙왕(忠肅王) 부위연간(復位年間)의 작품들과 닮아, 이들 네 권의 사경은 충숙왕(忠肅王) 복위연간의 작품이라는 점을 밝혔다.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.701-708
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• 2009

The study aims to investigate women's clothes described in Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang in Nara period of Japan to gain a clear understanding of the clothes of the ruling class women at that time. Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang was made in Nara period of Japan when Japan sent envoys and students to Tang, a dynasty of China, to acquire advanced civilization. At that time, Japan also fostered a strong international culture through the exchanges with neighboring nations. With this inflow of continental culture, Japan was dramatically advanced politically, socially, and culturally. The analysis of the clothes of Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang showed that she had her hair decorated with Bogye. She wore Ungyeon, Baeja, Daesui, and Tongsui as for her upper garment and Gun, Seub, and Peseul as for her lower garment. She also wore Bidae and Youngeon and put on Geummal and Seok on her feet. Overall, these results suggested that she wore Chinese style clothes. The clothes of Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sangwere very similar to formal dresses of high class women described in Yangroryeong. Some of her clothes were not shown in Yangroryeong because those clothes were added after Yangroryeong. Another reason may be due to the fact that generalized clothes could be worn even though those clothes were not described in the dress code. In conclusion, the clothes described in Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang suggest that they were based on the dress code of Nara Period of Japan while there were also some variations due to the cultural circumstances at that time.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.203-223
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• 1994

This study intends to look through the development of female costume during the 100 years after the flowering time. By refocusing on the flow the Korean female costume, this study present representative costume style of that time and find out the fashion cycles. For this purpose, the clothes during the 100 years (from 1890 to 1993) were observed and changes of female costume, hair style and shoes were observed. Literature review and content analysis method used. The results of this study are as follows : For Korean costume, there were little changes in basic styles and only the jacket and skirt lengths were changed. After 1960s, as modernization of socio-cultural aspects were processed, Korean costume became formalized and structure of costume was duplicated. In the 1960's mint skirts and pantalons won popularity. In the 1970's , diverse modes including mini, midi, maxi, pantalon, hot pants appeared, and especially the jeans were popular. In the 1980's big & loose silhouette was in fashion in the beginning, and fit & flare silhouette later in the decade. In the 1990's styles emphasizing natural feminity came in fashion. In addition, by analyzing the development of female costume styles of Korea, Fashion cycles were found, expecially in the phenomenon of 70's styles repeating in the 90's.

• 한국농촌생활과학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.93-110
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• 1997

The customs of women s riding horse was prevalent in thriving period. The face toilet was mainly used by Gau Chang pattern. Wha Jun (chinen; Hwa-Qun(화전), make-up on forehead), was influenced nearly by Gua Chang and distantly by India. Penciling eyebrows with blue was transmitted from persia. Chinese cosmetics was most influenced during Tang Dynasty for it's colorful make-up and facial decorations such as Aek-Whang(액황), Wha-Jung(화전), Jang-Yob(장엽), Swa-Hong(사홍) and those made many Dynasty, since those kinds of styles were the result of mixture between traditional chinese and western styles, it became so unique and diverse. The Declining period of the Tang Dynasty has begun from the turning point, resulting from Rebellion of An Ru Sha'. Rebellion of An Ru Sha' made the chinese people have a sense of precaution, and an antipathy against babarian. Furthermore, the power of Tang Dynasty onto the countries bordering on western china unfortunately was declining due to the defeat at 99 the Talas war in 751. As the fashion of ‘Ho’ disappeared the costume pattern was restored to the traditional Chinese style of large sleeve and broad width. However, the Tibetan mode was appeared in women's hair style and face toilet since Yuan Ha (801-812). In Song Dynasty, women's make-up and adorment were originated from Dang Dynasty, but those were more simple than in Dang Dynasty.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.76-87
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to understand how the silhouette changed throughout 1970s and assess how US women express their identities through their dress, which may explain societies' attitudes through the way women dresses. US Vogue fashion magazines were used to explore all the information on fashion and style trends, social trends, beauty, and travel. A content analysis was performed on the issues of the March and September for the years 1970 to 1979. The findings for this study about the 1970s were all about perpetual change, constantly moving forward with innovation. The color ranged from bright, cheery and bold to deep and passionate to subtle neutrals. There were a few constant colors through the decade like white, black and navy. Occasionally the trend would completely change from one season to the next within the same year. They would be full and oversized and then be slim and body conscious. The one trend that stayed true for the entire decade was wrapping. Skirts, pants, dresses, tops, shoes and jewelry; everything wrapped in one-way or another. Clothes steadily became more revealing as the years progressed. Fabrics over all were soft and knitted. Casual and comfortable was the phase heard most often. In the 1970s there was constant change in prints. They were bold and large or subtle and small, ethnic or floral. Hair was mostly smooth and sleek however towards the style moved to a fuller look.