• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.47-58
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• 1995

The Study is to find out the thought of costume of the people who advocated the Wejung-chunksa. Conclusions are described as follows 1. The action to boycott western goods was the early response in the Wejung -chuksa Thought. The reason were in fear of ruin in chosun industry and worry about the westernizing the Korean. 2. The people of the Wejung-chuksa had the conservative character in order to maintain the traditional public order and the costume. They thought that costume have a role to distinguish between man and woman , the rich and the poor and so on. Therefore acceptance the wastern constume style meant that the Korean became a savage. So that they rejected the King's order about the dress-system reformation in 1884, 1895. That pointed that their ultimate purpose was to keep the traditional rule. 3. In appearance the purpose of the short-hair law was good for health. But it meant to destory the traditional order and to symbolize the civilization . Especially the short -hair in the people of Wejung-chuksa meant the destruction of the traditional rule and casting away the courtesy. Therefore they wanted to keep the value of the traditional costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.211-223
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine aspects of education, social activity, and sense of values in new women, categorizing the clothing habits into hair style, new modes and accessories on the basis of those. and to find out the influences of new women's attirement on clothing habit of general women, centering of 「Beol Geon Gon」 which made its first appearance in November 1926 and issued till June, 1934. First, new education became good opportunity to face and adopt new style of clothes. The school uniform of western style worn under the education system operated missionaries and clothes of returning students from studying abroad became a chance for general people to meet western clothes. Second, various style of western clothing was shown by enlargement of social activity area of new women. In the educational world and active careers such as doctor, journalist. women's libber, convenient clothing was required. The appearance of airwoman and driver showed trends that women's clothing was changing similar to men's clothing. Third, even general women started to adopt western clothes not to be old-fashioned as being threatened and weakened by the vision about marriage and love among new women, and participated in the trends.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.69-89
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• 1987

The objective of this paper was to identify the general concept of subculture; to assess the symbolism of youth subculture style, such as Teds in the 40's, Mods in the 50's, Skinheads and Hippies in the 60's, and Punks in the 80's, giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. The data were collected from eye-wittness reports, interviews, magazines such as Vogue, The Face, and The Sunday Times, postcards, and photos taken by authors. Youth subcultures were symbolized as 1) a social protest and disaffection against social class and racism, 2) an expression of shock value for nihilism, anarchism, and vandalism, 3) a meaningful sexual fetishism concerning gender confusion, and 4) an emotion of rage, fear, and alienation among working class youth. One cultural form in a subculture is its 'style.' Costumes, appearances, and accessories such as hair style, make-up, and jewellery were playing an important role in forming a subcultural style. The symbolism of youth subculture was well depicted on their clothing styles, which had influences on Zandra Rhodes's, Body Maps', and Hyper and Hyper's fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.154-164
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• 2004

The purpose of this theses is to review Hanliu phenomenon, a kind of social and cultural phenomenon, in China around A. D. 2000 in the view of the culture-diffusion theory, and analyze its effect to the fashion style of the new young generation of China. In this theses, Hanliu phenomenon means the enthusiasm of Asian people for Korean mass cultures such as Korean dramas, pop songs and fashions from late 1990's. This research adopts two kinds of methods for analyzing Hanliu phenomenon: a qualitative research method and a quantitative one. As a qualitative research method, we analyzed Hanliu phenomenon with several sources of documentaries and audio-visual materials on it. As a quantitative research method, we conducted a survey of about 100 university students in Beijing for how they feel of korean culture and fashions. The Hanliu phenomenon leads to the popularity of Korean products and the general Korean cultures. Also, it affected the Chinese young generation so much that the Korean fashion becomes popular among them. Its effects to the fashion styles of Chinese youths can be summarized in three factors as follows. Firstly, the fashions of Korean entertainers such as H.O.T hair style and Hip-hop fashion style are widely imitated. Secondly, the preference of Korean fashion products has been widely increased. The number of stores dealing with Korean fashion products has been increased. Finally, Korean culture and products have actively been imitated in China according to the increased popularity of Korean fashion products.

• 복식
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• 제61권3호
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• pp.36-50
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• 2011

The traditional masculinity has been gradually diversified towards the 21th century due to a new social environment. Men embrace his feminine side with heightened aesthetic sense using cosmetic products for better skin, hair, and nails. This diversification of male image and his beauty style proves the addition of feminity to masculinity. C. G. Jung felt that we are all really bisexual in nature. The anima is the female aspect present in the collective unconscious of men and it is the archetype through which we communicate with the collective unconscious generally, and it is important to get into touch with it for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desire based on the anima archetype in the collective unconscious of men through the diversity of the gender identity shown in men's cosmetic advertisements, and therefore it aim to help developing a marketing strategy of male beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, it conducted an empirical analysis of male beauty style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian anima theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was typified as Retrosexual, Ubersexual, Metrosexual, Cross sexual. Second, the anima archetype stimulates feminity in male beauty style. Cross sexual type has the highest feminine tendency. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. Cross sexual type is most similar to the female beauty style. This feminization of male beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.877-887
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• 2011

The purpose of Sassanian dynasty was to succeed the civilization of Achaemenid dynasty but it shows vestiges of Parthian civilization in many ways. This study is an attempt to take a look at Sassanian civilization through analyzing these rock reliefs since these features are shown on the rock relief of Ardashir I in early Sassanian Iran. The way carried out this study was first, to collect and search documentary data to establish the theoretical background, and collect positive data by exploring this region and then we comparatively analyzed the two data in general and the result is the following: The form of costume is different according to the person's status. In the early period of Ardashir I the costume style of the royals is reflected by clothes such as tunic, trousers in parthian style. However, trousers do not have vertical pleats which are commonly shown in the case of parthian trousers. It assumed that after the early period of Ardashir I, Sassanians formed their own styles. The form of cap is also different according to the person's status. Ardashir I and the Ahura mazda god put on crown and Korymbos which symbolized the sovereign power. Except the king and the god, the prince and the king's vassal put on high caps called Kolah. Diadem which symbolized sovereign power of king was used by the king, the god and the crown prince. There are two kinds of diadem. The first form has vertical pleats and the other does not have pleats. This form became different depending on the social position. The form of hairstyle is generally thick curly hair which goes down until the shoulder. There is no difference in their hairstyle in terms of the social position. The beard style is generally in the form of scoop. There is also no difference in terms of the person's status.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.39-59
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• 1981

This article briefly researched the Picture of Welcoming the Governor of Pyongan Province painted by Kim Hong-do, penname Danwon(1745-1818?). The Picture was composed of three parts and its historical and pictorial back-ground were reviewed firstly. And later the dress and its ornament appearing on the Picture were studied. In the historical viewpoint of dress and its ornament, the Picture shown all sorts of dress from lower class maids and servants to higher officials-dignatories and governor, and dealt with nearly all dresses. In order to support and to make better understand the dresses of that age, some Korean literary works of the same period depicting the dress and its ornament were also selected. This article dealt with the dress and its ornament. especially that of 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, and comparatively studied for our folk painting with literary works. Also the picture enabled to make this study was an important data of our old dress and its ornament. This painting was considered as one of our cultural treasures. Several conclusions drawn out from this study as followings: 1) In male and female dress of lower class people; male dress was consist of trouser and coat, and coat, and over the coat SOCHANGYI were used. Female dress was basically consist of skirt and these were white color of their favourite. Mainly simple color was used for clothing and its dress style were CHAKSOO-HYONG (narrow sleeve style) which convenient for a work. 2) Yangban's dress was consist of trouser, coat and over the coat, usually DOPO(over-coat) were used and some case JICKRYONGPO (a sort of over-coat) or CHANGYI were also used. These were GWANGSOO-HYONG (wide sleeve style) of inconvenient for a work. 3) In head-gear, there was no difference of the higher and the lower. They usually used HEUC-KRIP (black Korean hat). The OCKJUNGJA, GONJAKMI (peacock tail), HOSOO (tiger beard), and YOUNGJA (chin strip) were used according to officials ranks as head-gear's oraments. 4) Local petty officials used ordinary dress and CHUPRI (warn-dress) were also used by them, and military officials used war-dress of tight sleeve. 5) The belting of over-coat are different in color according to official grade. The higher grade wore red-wide belt, but generally black narrow belt for ordinary officials. 6) All KISAING girl wore SAMHYEOIJANG upper coat. And their head ornament were black KARIMA for grown KISAING. SAYANG hair for DONGKI or maiden KISAING and BINYEO (an ornamental rod of women's hair) were inserted into the hair of rear down part of head. The water carring maid wore BANHYEOIJANG upper coat and no KARIMA were on head and their coat were gloomy color. Above mentioned are several conclusions, and there migh be a false or erroneous explanations of 18th century dress and its ornament, however I considered they were data for blank period of quite unknown.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2007

여교사의 옷차림에 대한 학생과 교사의 태도를 비교분석하여 바람직한 여교사의 옷차림을 모색함으로써 보다 나은 교육적 효과를 주기 위한 기초 자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 연구 자료는 설문지를 사용하여 서울과 수원지역의 초 중 고 학생과 초 중 고 교사를 대상으로 수집하여, 학생 622부, 교사 176부를 분석에 사용하였다. 조사 자료의 통계처리는 SPSS프로그램을 이용하여 분석하였다. 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 여교사의 옷차림에 대한 학생과 교사의 태도를 살펴본 결과 옷차림과 헤어스타일의 단정성과 정숙성에 대해 보통보다 높게 인식하고 있었다. 특히, 옷차림의 정숙성은 교사가, 헤어스타일의 단정성은 학생이 더 높게 인식하였다. 옷차림과 수업의 연관성에 대해 교사는 높다고 생각하는 반면 학생은 옷차림과 수업의 연관성이 낮다고 하였다. 교사 옷차림에 대해서는 교사가 학생보다 더 중요하다고 인식하였다. 둘째, 학교 급별로 살펴본 결과 여교사 옷차림과 헤어스타일의 단정성은 초등학교에서는 학생이 교사보다 높게 인식했으나 고등학교에서는 교사가 학생보다 높게 인식하였다. 정숙성에 대해서는 중학교에서 고등학교로 갈수록 학생과 교사 간에 큰 차이가 나타났는데 교사가 학생보다 더 정숙성을 요구하는 것으로 나타났다. 옷차림과 수업과의 연관성과 옷차림의 중요성에 대한 태도에서는 초등, 중, 고등학교 모두에서 교사가 학생보다 더 긍정적 태도를 나타냈다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.1116-1133
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• 2016

This study examines the historical background of Goryeo and its relationship with Song and Yuan. In addition, it observes the shape of dress styles for the king, queen, officers, maids in waiting, and commoners after classifying them with a focus on the dress style of normal people appearing in Buddhist paintings. This study then investigates structures by tracing Goryeo's unique identity and its characteristic by a comparison and analysis of dressing style elements of Goryeo with Song and Yuan. The results shows that the Song's system was used exclusively for the dress style of the king and government officers of Goryeo after Goryeo's submission period by Yuan. There were no clear appearances of a Mongol style dress but only changes in head styles of cutting hair around the head and twisting the rest in a top down and long method. In addition, Song's style Bokgeon was shown by the king to his lower level officers. This was because the king and his officers of Yuan were in accordance with Song's system in officer's dress, hat and head style, armor, and horseback riding equipment. Second, there is doubt if they inherited a traditional form and style of the dress rather than followed the dress style of Yuan because the shape of Yuan's basic dress style Deel is very similar to the dress shape of early Buyeo people's Po in the $3^{rd}$ to $4^{th}$ centuries. Third, the shape of the Chaksu and Gung-go had been kept as it was in the dress style of ordinary men, and because the shape of the double collar had already appeared in the period of Samguk, which appeared in all classes of Yuan. There is no reason to adopt double collar shape that appeared. The general Pyeonbokpo of the country had to be influenced by Yuan. Forth, the dress style of queen and her maids in waiting were mentioned in documents; however, there was no shape of a dress like Boktag and Deel in the relics, which are the characteristic of Yuan's woman dress style. Fifth, the shape worn national style Yu and Sang had been kept in an ordinary woman's dress style; however, the two style system of high and lower class in Yuan's ordinary woman dress style appeared newly and is considered an influence of Goryeo.