• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.823-835
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• 2018

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.447-458
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• 2009

The advent of various arts and remarkable development of mass media since 1980s accelerate fashion photographs' advancement. The expression of fashion through photographs can represent characteristics of ages, societies, cultures, traits of designers and techniques of photographers. This study focuses on Cindy Sherman's fashion photographs, which represent different kinds of respect to the women's states and identity. Cindy Sherman describes neglected women, sexual characteristics, and tries to overcome the limitation existing in modern society. By analyzing her fashion photographs, women's identities can be examined and the new trial of fashion photographs' expression is able to be considered as well. The results are summarized into two traits. The first is grotesque images, which have strange cuts, dissolved and deformed bodies. Those are expressions to subvert the stereotype of women. The second is amusement, which is expressed with uncanny and ridiculous appearances. These fun images are challenges to depict human instinct and also symbolic plays.

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2004

The beauty of the body could separately be defined from area to area, but there can't be any universal definition of it that is applicable throughout the world. The modern discourses on the body have frequently dealt with that, and the beauty of the body should be studied in light of sociocultural background. In today's world fashion industry, the body is represented in various ways, and how to express the body itself is considered from diverse perspectives. As it's now required to approach to fashion from the sociocultural standpoint of the body. a semiotic interpretation method was introduced. The reason was that from the viewpoint of semiotics, the beauty of the body has different implications for society as cultural sign, and they also could be regarded as sociocultural codes. In order to improve new light on the aesthetic consciousness of the body and how it's represented in modern fashion, earlier studies and existing theories were examined. The semiotic interpretation method was used to find out what the aesthetic consciousness of the body stood for and what implication it had for fashion. And in which way fashion represented aesthetic consciousness, including satire, pleasure, grotesque and decadence, through the body was examined. Fashion creates an artificial beauty of the body, and change in the body is followed by change in fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.425-438
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• 2005

This study is to examine the types of expression and aesthetic characteristics of on-line game characters by analyzing those game characters' body and their costume that appear in various domestic on-line game sites. It is shown in this study that types of the human bodies and costume expressed through the game characters are grouped into five categories such as exposure and tightness, enlargement and exaggeration, curtailment and simplification, gender stereotype and unification. Furthermore, there are four typical aesthetic characteristics resulting from those types of expressions; First, 'grotesque' is expressed in the form of extreme enlargement and exaggeration, extreme exposure and concealment, combined images among human, animal or machine, or monstrous devilish images. Second, in an effort to express 'eroticism', bodies are directly exposed, see-through costumes are used in order to emphasize the body lines or very tight designs are used. Third, 'futuristic' characteristics are shown through geometrical shape and silhouette, machine-like details, strong artificial colors or glossy hi-tech material. Lastly, 'pastiche' is expressed with reconciliation of variety of costumes of game characters. Various opposite or heterogeneous styles are combined or harmonized each other to show pastiche, of which examples are male and female, superior culture and inferior one, rich and poor, oriental and western, human and machine, human and nature or past and future, etc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.219-226
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• 2001

This study analyzed the works, introduced in the collections of Thierry Mugler in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. The formative aesthetic expressed in the works of Thierry Mugler were characterized by the eroticism and the futurism. The formative aesthetic of eroticism were specified into the sexualism, primitivism and fetishism, and those of futurism were divided into the cosmocorps and the grotesque. The eroticism was based on the design concept on the body of woman. The sexuality was expressed through the design concept of opposing, extreme and conversion method. The primitivism was presented through the design concept of extreme method to express a returning to nature and a nostalgia and an adoration for the past. The pieces, expressed the fetishism, was presented through opposing concepts, such as a bondage and an extreme expose. It was indicated that the design concept of futurism was based on the future. The cosmocorps was expressed through the extreme method by using geometrical formative aesthetic and contrast color combination. The grotesque represented the mysterious and abhorrent futurism through the design concept of depaysment conversion and analogy.

• 영미문화
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.139-162
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• 2018

In "Adventure" Alice Hindman tries to express her repressed sexual instinct with impulsive adventures but becomes a grotesque through her own self-deception and extreme loneliness. She has a passionate relationship with Ned Currie at 16, which defines her identity and molds her entire life. She does believe that Ned may return and stick to his disingenuous word and promises, and holds on to it as the only and absolute truth in her life. Her distortion of reality is in fact based on her self-deception and falsehood she creates. Seized by a strange urge, her second adventure indicates that she wants to feel closer to another grotesque that can understand her loneliness, and that her desire for communication transcends her sexual desire. At the end of the story, she seems to realize that she will die in her bed alone, misunderstood and unloved. But this conclusion shows that, despite the opportunity and potential of another choice, she never makes positive choices and refuses to accept responsibility for her actions. She rather creates an excuse with empty words and shows the limits so as not to get out of her own self-deception. Instead of focusing on Alice's strange behavior and blaming her, Anderson emphasizes the importance of understanding and communication while exploring the sorrow and loneliness of a woman who wants to be loved but is obsessed with self-deception in Winesburg.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제18권10호
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• pp.631-643
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• 2018

본고는 김수현이라는 TV 드라마 작가 1명에 관해 최초로 시도되는 다각적이고 체계적인 연작 논문으로 직전 연구를 통해 김수현 대사의 개념적 특성으로 바흐찐 대화주의의 핵심 개념인 '다성성'을 제시한데 이어 그 구체적 방법 요소로 바흐찐의 카니발 창작이론인 '그로테스크 리얼리즘'과 '비공식적 광장언어'를 적용 분석한 연구이다. 본고는 3부작 특집극인 <어디로 가나>(SBS, 1992)를 연구대상으로 삼아 김수현 대사의 '그로테스크 리얼리즘'의 요소, 즉 전복과 파괴, 생성의 특성을 알아보았고, '비공식적 광장 언어'의 요소 즉 민중성과 즉물적 육체적 언어, 자기 해방의 발화로서의 특성을 확인하였다. 본고는 이처럼 김수현 대사 연구에 있어 통상 분리되어 적용 연구되는 바흐찐 '대화주의' 이론'과 '카니발 이론'을 통합적으로 전작에 이어 적용 연구함으로서 바흐찐 이론 적용의 문제를 극복하는 한편 김수현 작가론, 특히 대사론의 연구 밀도를 높이고자 하였다. 연구 결과 김수현 작가는 바흐찐의 대화주의 핵심 개념인 '다성성'을 대사 창작, 나아가 언어 인식의 근본 개념으로 삼고 있음을 확인한 데 이어 허위에 가득 찬 세계를 즉물적, 육체적 민중 주체의 비공식적 광장언어로 격하, 전복시키고 이에 그치지 않고 자기비판의 부정과 긍정, 해방, 생명을 획득하게 만드는 역할을 수행함으로서 대사의 양가성이란 차별성을 획득하였음을 확인하였다. 이는 드라마 대사의 역할론에서 벗어난 발화로서의 언어에 대한 작가의 치열한 인식이란 작가 정신의 결과로 평가된다. 하지만 이런 김수현 작가의 차별성과 작가정신이 한국 드라마 크게는 방송 콘텐츠 산업, 대중매체 창작에 어떤 영향을 미쳤는지는 구분, 평가할 필요가 있음을 후속 연구로 제시하였다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.195-204
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• 2005

본 연구의 목적은 최근 문화 속에서 새로운 가치기준으로 주목받고 있는 취향의 개념을 체계적으로 정리하고, 취향을 중심으로 현대패션에 표현된 룩의 조형성과 미적가치에 대하여 살펴보는 데에 있다. 취향은 개인에 의해 개별적으로 추구되는 삶의 방식이며 선호이자 현대사회 내에서 개인을 구별짓는 중요한 요소이며, 특히 패션은 취향의 차별화를 표현하는 주요 대상이다. 취향이 표현된 룩으로는 시대를 초월한 멋쟁이 취향의 댄디룩과 최근에 새롭게 주목받고 있는 저속한 취항이 표현된 키치룩, 성적 이상 취향이 표현된 페티시룩, 엽기 취향이 표현된 그로테스크룩과 어린 취향이 표현된 키덜트룩 등이 있다. 현대인의 다양한 취향과 그의 표현인 룩은 패션의 향유를 통한 즐거움의 추구이며 현재에 대한 긍정적인, 그리고 미래에 대한 적극적인 기대를 나타내는 상징적 표현이라 할 수 있다. 룩을 통해 패션과 사회는 서로 소통할 수 있으며, 디자이너는 컬렉션을 통해 룩을 효과적으로 제안함으로써 소비자의 취향을 만족시키는 핵심적인 역할을 할 수 있다. 본 연구의 결과는 취향에 대한 학문적 근거를 제공해 주며, 패션으로 표현된 미적 가치를 보석 줌으로써 문화 속의 취향과 패션의 룩에 대한 해석의 틀을 제공할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.63-77
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to apply fashion design to developing dress design of mobile-phone game characters. As for the research methodology, first, market research has been carried out to extract main images from dress designs of game characters and to understand their socio-cultural meanings. Second, the fashion design, which ran be compared to the extracted images of game characters were selected. Third, analyses were done to find out the gap between the game character's dress designs and the fashion designs. The main images of game characters are revealed as erotic, romantic, heroic, grotesque. These images have been formed by psychological and socio-cultural effects such as stimulation, empathy, compensation, increase of female game player. The differences between the game character's dresses and the fashion designs are as follows; With regard to style, game dresses have silhouette distinguished from background, but fashion collection have blurred silhouette. In the aspect of color, while strong colors are mainly used in game dress, neutral rotors are preferred in fashion collection. As for texture, the expression of 'textures in game character's dress is so far limited due to the insufficient level of the concerned technology. However, the fashion design applying drape of fabrics are well-developed. Mobile-phone game players want reality in game design. Therefore, the effort to overcome the gaps between game dress and fashion design can contribute to the growth of game character design.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.14-27
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the aesthetic characteristics of Brecht's V-Effekt is visually expressed of the costume in the Traditional Play of Korea, China and Japan. The method and the contents of the study were to refer to the antecedent studies and the related documents to peruse the characteristics of the traditional plays of the East and West, the origin and the concept of Brecht's Verfremdung and considered the relation of Brecht's V-Effekt and the Oriental plays, and then the researcher derived the aesthetic properties of Brecht's V-Effekt. This study analyzed how those qualities of the aesthetic characteristics on the V-Effekt are manifested on the stage costumes of Korean mask, Beijing opera and Kabuki. The aesthetic qualities of Brecht's V-Effekt are classified into symbolism, grotesque disposition, character of sing and dance, comicality. The symbolism in the traditional play costumes of the three nations is shown in the colors of the masks in Korean and the tone of the colors on the costumes and the make-up in Beijing opera and Kabuki. While the properties of bizarrerie and deformation coexist in masque and Beijing opera costumes in terms of grotesque disposition, Kabuki strongly displays bizarre grotesquerie. The character of sing and dance is visually expressed through the transformation of sleeves on the three nation's traditional play costumes; Masque on the Hansam and Chengsam, Beijing opera on the Water sleeves and Kabuki on Hurisode. The comic aspection is expressed in a humorous and comical way through the distortion and transformation of forms in Masque and Beijing opera but it cannot be seen in Kabuki costume. The study as above will form the aesthetic properties of the Oriental traditional play costumes and also it will contribute to establishing the identity of Korean mask costumes.