• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.99-111
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• 2007

This paper was built by following next steps. First, based on the records of the Tongshinsa, the official diplomatic mission Joseon dispatched to Japan, the actual conditions of wearing a Danryung, a official robe, in the 18th century were researched. Then the difference of wearing state between the missions - in 1719, 1748 and 1764- was found and the reason why was analyzed. In result two distinctions were found: 1) A black Danryung was worn in 1719 at the banquets and while receiving an official letter of reply, but a red Danryung, Gongbok or Sibok on the later trips. 2) In 1764 travel records there was some confusion of the names Gongbok and Sibok, which denote the same item of robes, according to the writer. The reason why those changes and confusion were caused is analyzed as follows: 1) After the Japanese Invasion(1592) and the Manchu Invasion of Joseon(1636), a black Danryung replaced the Gongbok for a while. But after the mid-18th century, when the Gongbok was revived, that was reappeared in the official ceremonies. 2) In the mid-18th century, both Gongbok and Sibok system had been revised. But because both color system was similar, those revision became a cause of confusion between Gongbok and Sibok. For a while all ministers wore red Gongbok and Sibok, but after those revision the color of official's robe was changed by officials' rank: the higher ranking officials' Gongbok and Sibok are red, the lower ranking officials' are bluish green.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.541-550
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• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2013

This paper researches the system of the official's gongbok(公服) during the reign of emperor Hongwu(洪武帝) in the Ming dynasty, and it is based on DaMingLing(大明令), DaMingJili(大明集禮), HongwuLizhi(洪武禮制), ZhusiZhizhang(諸司職掌), DaMingHuidian(大明 會典), MingTaizuShilu(明太祖實錄), and MingShi(明史). Official's gongbok is consisted of clothes, belt(帶), bokdu, scepter(笏), and black shoes. The system of official's gongbok wa schanged through three stages. First, the system of the Yuan dynasty(元代) was maintained in January, 1368, which was the first year of the emperor's reign. Second, the gongbok system was established in November, 1368. The system stated that the clothes had to be red-colored(赤色) regardless of rank and the belt was divided into okdai(玉帶), seodai (犀帶), gumdai(金帶), and kwangsoeundai (光素銀帶). Third, the system was revised in June, 1391, which was the 24th year of his reign. According to the rank, the clothing colors were divided into scarlet(緋色), blue(靑色), and green(綠色). The belt was divided into okdai, seodai, gumdai, and ogaggai(烏角帶). 'Hongmu26nyunjung(洪武26年定)' recorded on the Wanli's edition(萬曆本) of the DaMingHuidian has the meaning of ZhusiZhizhang regulations.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.269-274
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the costumes and trading goods of the Korean envoys in 1811. The findings of the study are as follows: The Korean envoys, as shown in literature, were dressed up three different types of costumes: Pyongbok, Gongbok, Jobok. They put on different kinds of clothes depending on the purpose of the events such as for ceremonial purpose or for traveling purpose. For traveling purpose, the envoys wore Pyongbok like Waryonggwan and Hakchangeui, which were commonly used as Pyeonbok in those times of Chosun era. For ceremonial purpose, they chose to wear Danryeong, Gongbok, Geumgwanjobok in this order following the order of the importance of the ceremony. The design of Jobok and Gongbok of Jeongsa and Busa were different from that of the early Chosun era. This difference in the Jobok and Gongbok demonstrates that Gwanbok has been transformed with the change in the general Po system in the late Chosun era. When the costumes of Korean envoys in 1811 were compared to those in 1711, there were similarities in terms of the design of Jobok and Gongbok, which indicated that little had changed for the period of 100 years. The most popular exchanged Byeolpok of Chosun was articles of clothing such as Daeyuja, Daedanja, Baekjeopo, Sangjeopo, and Baekmyeonju, while that of Japan was mostly objects of craftwork and a small amount of Po. The fact that cloth was one of the main items from the early Chosun era to the early 19C shows the highly developed clothing culture of Chosun era.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.71-82
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to examine Sibok of king and prince in Choson dynasty. In the first half of Choson the official uniform was not established. Sibok was worn for expediency. so there is a difference between Shillok and Gukzooraeyi Sibok in Shillok but Sangbok Chobok, Myounbok in Gukzooraeyi as the costume of same ceremony. But we can recognize that king 'Sibok' in that process took the place of Gongbok of Korea dynasty and was beyond simple working uniform though it was degraded than Gongbok Chobok, Myounbok. In the latter half of Choson the number of appearance of Sibok in Shillok was largely decreased in addition to is in interpretation of Sibok it was regarded as Sangbok Especially prince Sibok in a coming-of-age ceremony was regarded as an ordinary dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.57-66
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• 1997

This thesis is mainly on the study of Gongbok(official dress) and Sangbok (usual dress) in the system of official o-utfit of the Song dynasty. The Song dynasty has not left many historical remains due to the vicious cycle of intermittent internal disturbance and several outside invasions. According to the records of the Song dynasty which identified official dress with usual dress saying "the official dress of every government officers is his usual dress" this thesis is concentrated on the study of official dress and usual dress among many different types of official outfit. In the Song dynasty had survived until the year of 1123 from the year of 960 us-ing the four colour system of purple chi-nese red green and blue. The four colour system of purple deep red. green and black of official outfit of the Song dy-nasty the first year of Wonpung's regin and wearing Eodae(fish sack)is a sure sign of influence of the system of the Song dynasty.g dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.12-23
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• 2008

This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.47-60
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• 1997

As we analyzed the formalities of court dress during King Soonjo's rule through the characters depicted in $\boxDr$Wangseja Chulgungdo$\boxUl$(The Painting for a Crown Prince's Outgoing for Schooling to Sungkyunkwan) the results were as follows: People wore their appropriate full dress ac-cording to the ceremonial procedures. In the case of a Crown Prince normally the wore Gongjungchaek(a hat) (after the coming-of-age ceremony Iksunkwan) and Gonryongpo(imperial clothes) to show his status as a Crown Prince. He wore chugkumbok(a Coat) to indicate a Crown Prince as being a student. on an occasion of celebration a Crown Prince wore Wonyugwan and Gangsapo to provide him with prestige and as a sign of respect for the occasion. The teacher of a Crown Prince also wore Gongbok and Sangbok accoding to the dress requirements of the ceremonies. We can confirm that the Gongbok system of all government officials had been main-tained in the late Chosun dynasty. We know that the form of ceremonies be-came simplified in the late Chosun dynasty. it was recorded that students had to wear Chungkumbok. but we knew from the painting that students actually wore Dopo(a traditonal korean coat). We knew through this painting that the court dress rules of the late Chosun dynasty varied that previously known. As we concluded above research on the his-tory of costume by analyzing paintings both supplements our knowledge of the topic and confirms the deficiency in the study of the his-tory of costume based solely upon literature and books.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.200-221
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• 2019

The National Hangeul Museum houses a document list of the wedding gifts that Queen Sunwon granted her royal son-in-law, Nam Nyeong-wie, in August 1837. A total of 55 items were recorded in Hangeul Gungseo style on yellow paper. This list included four types of government officials' uniforms, casual wear, accessories, etc. The results of studying the 19th-century male officials' uniforms through this historic record were as follows. The clothing record in the List of Wedding Gifts was more accurate than that in the Dukongongju Garyedeungrok. The four types of government official uniforms for Nam Nyeong-wie included jeobok, sangbok, sibok, and gongbok. For the joebok, there was geumkwan, daehong-hangrah joebok, baeksam, ahole, seodae, gakpae, peseul, paeok, husu, and mokhwa. The record of the List confirms that baeksam was used as jungdan for joebok. For the gongbok, there was daehong-hangrah gongbok, blue seolhancho duhgre, blue saenggyeonggwangju changui, and green waehangrah kurimae. The record of the List shows that the lining of the gongbok was duhgre, and confirms, for the first time, that changui and kurimae were worn inside the gongbok. For the sangbok, there was samo, ssanghakhyungbae embroidered with golden thread, dark green cloud patterned gapsa gwandae, blue cloud patterned gapsa duhgre, blue ssangmuncho changui, and Chinese purple hwamunsa kurimae. For the sibok, there was pink gwangsa gwandae, and blue gwangcho duhgre. For the lining, blue duhgre was used. Lastly, the fabrics used for those costumes were all suitable for the climate in August.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.767-777
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• 2012

This study analyzed the system and arguments on the light-pink official uniforms and investigated the backgrounds and principles on the changes of the Sibok system. A study on light-pink danryeong in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty is a de facto study on Sibok since the name of the light-pink official uniforms (implemented at the time of King Seonjo) changed from Sangbok to Sibok. Sangbok is discussed to explain the name change from Sangbok to Sibok and distinguish their usages; in addition, Gongbok is examined to understand the characteristics of the Sibok system. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty (books written by scholars) and related laws are used as research materials. The research results are as follows. The name of the light-pink uniforms (a custom before the Japanese invasion in 1592) changed from Sangbok to Sibok at the time of King Gwanghaegun and the light-pink uniform was used as a relatively light formal uniform compared to Sangbok. Sibok was added to the law Sok-dae-jeon at the time of King Yeongjo (because the king respected the custom) and its color rank system was denoted from light-pink and red. Sibok was revised to light-pink, blue, and green under the law Dae-jeon-tong-pyeon that was promulgated at time of King Jeongjo. In the development of the Sibok system in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, the color rank system of Gongbok was reflected. The sovereign ideas in the official uniforms in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty (revealed in the study of the system and arguments on the light-pink official uniforms) were the thoughts that respected the custom and the principles that distinguish ranks to establish a Confucian based hierarchy.