• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.7
• /
• pp.55-62
• /
• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.6
• /
• pp.72-81
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop geometric patterns which can be reinterpreted in a modern sense and textile designs which can be commercialized in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb. Of 42 tombs where genres and portraits could be observed, the costume style of Goguryeo dynasty could be mainly observed in the tombs built in the 4th and 5th centuries. Since geometric patterns found in the portrait could be represented in a modern sense, this study was intended to develop the patterns of a necktie which is one of cultural products by applying geometric patterns in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century with many patterns distributed. The scope of patterns was limited to a square, a triangle, a circle, and a diagonal line which were the basic of geometric patterns found in the mural painting. The methods of study were literature review and empirical study. Adobe Photoshop CS3 was used to edit geometric patterns found in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century. By extracting a square(${\square}$), a triangle(${\vartriangle}$), a circle(${\bigcirc}$), and a diagonal line(${\diagdown}$) from edited images, predicted images were proposed before products were made. Finally textile designs were made through the simulation of edited design patterns in the necktie and handkerchief. This study will contribute to the positive effects on the development of cultural product designs applying the characteristic of geometric patterns and the construction of Korean image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.3
• /
• pp.32-46
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to propose a solution for Goguryeo costume and its materials, colors, patterns, and accessories, which have not been dealt with in precedent studies and were treated as irrelevant subjects. The specific object of reconstruction with identification from the historical viewpoint is noble woman's costume(Yu and Gun) on the mural paintings of Jang-Cheon No.1 tomb in Jip-An province. As above, the reconstruction process of Yu(Jacket) and Gun(Skirt) worn by noble woman as depicted on the mural painting of the Baek-Hee-Gi-Ak-Do(百戱伎樂圖) in Jang-Cheon No.1 ancient tomb is suggested in this study. The most important issue for consideration was how to represent and exhibit it so that it resembles the mural painting as closely as possible. And the problems that arose at the time were the ratio and silhouette, which revealed disparities between the one on the mural painting and the costumes reproduced with identification from a historical viewpoint. The most difficult aspect of this work was due to the fact that the actual mural paintings were not available for verification. Therefore accuracy on details such as structure, materials, colors, patterns and accessory were difficult to obtain. So a further analysis of patterns, silhouettes, materials and colors are required for the precise representation of costume and dress on the mural painting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.54-68
• /
• 2006

Suhainmyuldo (樹下人物圖) is a type of picture which expresses a person under the tree and is known to be brought to the Korean Peninsula from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini (or Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India and the 'Tree of Life' in Western Asia which influenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way; for example, Jookrimchilhundo (竹林七賢圖: seven wise men in bamboo forest) in the Six Dynasty. There are only two items of female dress and its ornament from the 4th to 6th century Suhainmyuldo of the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural: one from the Jangchun Tomb No. 1 in which a female figure is portrayed as a part of living genre painting and the other from the Anahk Tomb No. 1 with seven female figures in a painting which is one of the earliest Suhainmyuldos, presumably from the 4th century. These two paintings must be considered in parallel with the origin of Suhainmyuldo. The mountain wizard's dress and Men's dress and its ornament in Suhainmyuldo from the 4th to the late 6th century Goguryeo ancient tomb is mostly joint adjust in which its collar is connected by a line and almost all the wizards are wearing Sang (upper garment). Most mountain wizards are wearing black feather shaped jackets and upper garments. One noticeable observation is that the mountain wizards of Mooyongchong, Tongu Ohgoibun Nos. 4 and 5 are completely different from one another in terms of ways to dress each wizard's official hats and shoes.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.7-18
• /
• 2006

A lot of relics were unearthed in the Shinchang-dong wetland site, which can help restore prehistoric life style, including construction tools such as wood doors, wood hammers, ax handgrips, sickle handgrips, wedges, awls, wood pillars and connection members, food vessels made of earth or wood and fish, shell fish, seeds and remains of weapons. In particular, a door was found in the site, which was measured at 110cm long and 37cm wide. If restored it will be 75cm wide. The door seems to date back as far as the 1st century B. C., which would be the oldest one ever discovered in Korea. This paper is intended to explore the implications of the door by investigating the environment of the Shinchang-dong wetland site bearing the relics intact, manufacturing techniques and times of manufacturing of the door as well as attributes of doors presented in the literature related to old time architecture such as Goguryeo tomb paintings and house-shaped vessels. It also intends to provide basic data for study of residential architecture in prehistoric times.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.183-199
• /
• 2006

This study aims to estimate the nationality of two envoys by examining their dresses and appearances depicted on the wall painting of Afrasiab's Palace in Samarkand with the concentration on the history of the international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia. The international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia are examined with the concentration on the literature review. And what are related to the dresses during the period of the three states are examined with the concentration on the literature review and the wall painting of Goguryeo tomb. The followings results were identified. The dresses of envoys were comprised of Jowugwan, the soft hat shaped like a peaked hat, the upper garment reaching a hip line with Jikryeong Gyoim and Tongsu, narrow trousers, black belt with a hook, front-pointed shoes and big sword with a round ring. The items of dressing are very similar to those during the Goguryeo period as observed on the wall paintings and excavated articles from the tombs from the Goguryeo period and literature. The next examination is estimated that Goguryeo had the official relationship with the countries in Central Asia before the invasion of Tang in mid-7 century when the wall painting, in our estimation, was produced, and to this end, Goguryeo sent the envoys to those countries. The envoys on the wall painting were estimated to be from Goguryeo as discussed above.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.54 no.1
• /
• pp.280-301
• /
• 2021

Chogak has been regarded as originating from the paintings decorating building elements. Various curved shape drawings that were first seen in the paintings of Goguryeo tomb murals evolved into the vine patterned Dancheong of Geuklakjeon in Bongjeongsa. Cheomcha of Geuklakjeon was chiseled with Yeonhwadusik relievo at the bottom on top of Dancheong, and this was the beginning of Cheomcha-Chogak. Also, Cheomcha, which was carved with a preliminary vine patterned Chogak in Daeungjeon in Bongjeongsa, opened the era of engraving Chogak directly on the surface of structural elements. Since then, vine patterned Chogak was a significant decoration technique for the Cheomcha of traditional wooden construction for a long time. Because Jeongjagak is a structure that was continuously built between the end of the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and the late Joseon Dynasty, the transition of Cheomcha-Chogak over time can be seen through Jeongjagak architecture. The early Cheomcha-Chogak presents stems that climb up (Upbound-type) towards the headpiece on a column, while stems of Chogak later reversed direction to descend (Downbound-type) from the headpiece. This study examined the transition process and reasons for the change, with a focus on the findings above, and identified a new type of Chogak that is unrelated to the direction type and was adopted during the transition from Upbound-type to Downbound-type. The new type appeared when the Jeongjagaks for the Royal Tomb of Kyeongjo and those of the Injo were built, and it matches with the transitional period wherein lotus vanishes from Hwaban-Chogak. The study also inferred that the direction change of Cheomcha-Chogak stems was caused by the separation of vine patterned Chogak, carved with a two-stepped inner Ikgon, into both upward and downward from the headpiece, and this led to the changes that manifested as the inside of Choikgong being the Downbound-type Chogak and the variegated vine patterned Chogak of Choikgong affecting the direction of Cheomcha-Chogak. This is the follow-up study of "A Study on the Hwaban-Chogak of the Neungwon-Jeongjagak," a paper published in 2018, and is limited in n that Cheomcha, the focus of the research, is just one of the construction elements of Jeongjagak. The entirety ofChogak cannot be understood only by observing Cheomcha.