• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1128-1139
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• 2009

This study is on the works of Hussein Chalayan that is an expression of his idea and abstract concepts such as culture, history, time, space, nature, and humanity. The perspective of E. H. Gombrich is studied to understand the works of Chalayan who is the one of representative fashion designers in the present age. The 'schema and correction' process of E. H. Gombrich provides a suitable interpretation frame that considers the variety of works of art and the deconstruction of genre in the after 20th century. Hussein Chalayan attempts to combine clothes with other territories to show the spirit as materiality. He expresses the clothes that speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space, and investigates the existence of human beings. Hussein Chalayan poses an endless question about the existence of human beings. He has put a question about the relationship of the human being and time, space, history, and nature. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works makes him the representative designer of the 21st century.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.840-850
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• 2006

This thesis that is written by inquiring the shoes of 1990's, is written in order to propose the method of analyzing the changes of shoes design systematically. The picture to be gathered was a content analysis low at ARS and Accessory Collegioni since though the research method took shoes to $1990{\sim}1999$. I categorized the design factors into shape, material, color, decoration. by using those category, the result of analysis of design character. In 1,990's, boots, pumps and straps were the most popular in upper, point and rounded cuban and french were the most popular in toe, leather was the most popular in materiel, suede in F/W and patent in S/S. Black was the most popular color, brown in F/W and white/beige in S/S were the second. Re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstructions of structures and shapes of shoes, shape that was expanded to other genre were appeared in character of design factor. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Recognition of shoes color was expanded by using unique colorations and abstract, fresh figure colors. Post-modem tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.159-178
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• 1998

Genres of the modern arts are expanding the overlapping area between the arts ; ceramics and weaving considered as crafts are devel-oped to the ceramic art and the fiber art, re-spectively. This trend has been also applied to the clothing part, which produced several new terms such as‘art to wear’,‘unwearable art’,‘clothing sculpture’and so on. As following this tendency, the unwearable art is dwelling on the boundary of painting, fiber art and scul-pture, and the clothing sculpture comes from the combination of fiber art and sculpture. While Issey Miyake's dress made of bamboo and Foltuny's pleats dress associated with Greek stone-column introduce the sculpture to the functional fashion design, the works of clothing sculpture become the arts by applying the sculpture to the non-functional unwearable art. Although the clothing sculpture is an interesting subject to be studied continuously for its effect on the contemporary clothing part, it is valuable enough as an unwearable art and sculpture respresenting the artist's concept under the circumstance that the boundary between arts and design is no longer clear, i.e., the clothing and the sculpture come across their regions each other. Furthermore, the clothing sculpture has its own value as a metapor exposing idea, feeling and spirit of the artist in the genre of the unwearable art. With a view point of the abstract clothing concept, the clothing sculpture has been taking the role expanding the clothing to the world of fine art.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.713-725
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• 2007

This treatise is designed to discover the principle of timeless continuity of Korean design from the perspective of modem accomodation of formative beauty of tractional dress style with the focus on measurement analysis of dress from visual perspective. For this purpose in this research the following subjects are studied with concentration: the 1st phase debate on the dress style appearing in the Kokuryo murals and genre painting during the later period of Chosun Dynasty regarding the formative beauty of dress style. 2nd phase debate on the points of changes and transformations during given age and given principle of Korean designs being maintained across the span of time in the context of madern accomodation of such traditional dress. From historical perspective characteristics of each given age and principles of visual formative principles appear in various ways variety attributable to mutually interactive principles according to historical background and culture. For this reason it can be said that they are determined by different paradigm or forms from characteristics of Korean style design in the present and future and those for traditional forms of dress in the past.

• 한국시조학회지:시조학논총
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• 제44권
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• pp.165-195
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• 2016

시조와 가사는 한국의 시가문학을 대표하는 갈래이다. 우리의 시가문학에서 시조는 3장 6구 12음보의 형식을 갖추고, 한 수의 노랫말은 45자 내외의 길이를 지닌 정형시를 의미한다. 조선후기의 사설시조는 시조의 변화를 수용하여 대체로 3장의 기준만을 채택하고 그 내용과 형식을 확대하여 표현하고 있다. 한편 가사의 정의는 1행 4음보의 율격을 바탕으로 100행 내외로 연속하는 장시라고 할 수 있다. 조선후기의 가사는 내용적으로 다양한 소재를 이야기로 연결하여 행수가 훨씬 많아지는 경향을 수용하여 대상과 사물의 총체성을 읊어내고 있는 장시라고 할 수 있다. 이러한 측면에서 조선시대의 시조와 가사는 정형시와 장시로 고전시가의 두 산맥을 이루고 있는 중요한 갈래라고 할 수 있다. 조선전기에는 두 갈래의 노래가 서정을 기조로 하여 시조는 정형시의 양식을 계승했고, 가사는 장시라는 장르의 양식을 차지하여 시가문학을 융성하게 했다. 16세기 후반부터 두 갈래의 문학을 표현하는 방식의 변화와 함께 향유하는 계층이 늘어나면서 점차 이질성을 많이 드러내게 되었다. 시조는 시조창의 변화로 사설시조가 등장하며, 가사는 현실의 체험을 사실적으로 표현하는 이야기를 수용하여 길이가 길어지는 변화를 수용하여 규방가사와 서사가사가 성행했다. 그러나 단형의 정형시인 시조와 장시인 가사는 1행 4음보를 기준으로 창작되는 동질성을 조선후기까지 공유하고 있었다. 이 글에서는 시조와 가사에 나타난 향유방식과 그 상관성을 정형성과 비정형성, 은유의 수사학과 환유의 수사학, 가창의 문학과 음영하는 문학 등을 통해서 살펴보았다. 조선시대의 시조와 가사에 나타난 향유방식을 살펴보는 작업은 오늘날 21세기 문화의 향유자들이 추구하는 문화콘텐츠의 다양한 글쓰기를 아우르며 화합과 소통의 새로운 세계를 항해하는 문화의 나침판이 될 수 있다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.30-47
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• 2006

La $d\'{e}marche$ et l'objet de cette recherche sont d'analyser, psychiquement, $th\'{e}oriquement$, les marques de $l'intersexualit\'{e}$ $pr\'{e}sentent$ en Orient et les $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ intersexuels, binaires dans le $v\hat{e}tement$, et $\'{e}galement$ de comprendre $l'ambiguit\'{e}$ ou encore la fusion des $identit\'{e}s$ $sexu\'{e}es$, qui $pr\'{e}sente$ symboliquement a travers le $v\hat{e}tement$, dans la $soci\'{e}t\'{e}$ moderne. La base fondamentale dans la $th\'{e}orie$ de l'Orient est que l'univers se divise en Yin ($caract\`{e}re\;f\'{e}minin$) et Yang ($caract\`{e}re$ masculin) et que tout individu $poss\`{e}de$ $\'{e}galement$ ce couple, en quelque sorte un intersexuel qui s'ignore, avec des variations selon l'individu. En $d\'{e}finitive$, les compositions doubles des $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ dans le $v\hat{e}tement$ oriental montraient $embl\'{e}matiquement$ nos $qualit\'{e}s$ doubles, masculins et $f\'{e}minins$, et les trois $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ semblent primordiaux pour $l'\'{e}lucidation$ de la $pr\'{e}disposition$ du porteur : la couleur du tissu, sa forme et la texture du $v\hat{e}tement$. La mode d'auiourd'hui oscille entre masculin et $f\hat{e}minin$. Cette fusion de la mode semble le reflet d'une tendance intersexuelle et d'une fusion du genre. Ainsi, cette recherche est, $\grave{a}$ travers $l'\'{e}l\'{e}ment$ masculin ou $f\'{e}minin$ des $v\hat{e}tements$, pour tenter de discerner lesprit, l'intention et le $caract\`{e}re$ sexuel dominant du porteur.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.87-105
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• 1998

Surveying the literature of architecture since the nineteenth century, one can identify two dominant but problematic attitudes, among several, that pursue the task of defining what modern architecture is and should be. The first is the search for meaning and the second is the pursuit of form. This study, following Michel Foucault, asserts that the dual formation of meaning and form is a historical product of modernity and belies architecture's uncritical dependence on language since the nineteenth century. This study is a critique and historical analysis of this pernicious reliance, and constitutes a first step towards thinking of alternative relations between 'words and architecture' in the modern world. In reconstructing this problematic, the paper has called on Foucault's seminal The Order of Things. The study follows his construction of the Renaissance, the Classical and the Modern episteme, and in brief fashion, reconstructs the relation between language and architecture in each episteme. In analysing the Modern, the study focuses on Hegel's Lectures on Aesthetics. Hegel placed architecture in a genre hierarchy within which architecture, because of its material basis, was fundamentally limited in its ability to express the Spirit. For Hegel it was, among the arts, poetic language, and beyond art, the language of philosophy, through which the Absolute Spirit could be atttained. Much of post-nineteenth century architecture has remained within the shadow of Hegel, where architecture's materiality is perceived to be a burden, and in order to secure its relevance in modern society, architecture was deemed to pursue the role of language. As the most recent and sophisticated example of architecture's pursuit of form, the paper analyses the work of Peter Eisenman. Though Eisenman's theoretical writings are replete with post-Hegelian rhetoric, his architecture remains dependent upon the model of language, albeit a structuralist one. The paper concludes that ultimately, the pursuit of meaning and form is unable to face the crucial issue of value in modernity. While the former decides to easily what it is, the latter evades the issue itself. The second installment of this ongoing study will pursue a third possibility alluded to by Foucault, where language remains silent, pointing only to its 'ponderous' material existence.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2004

Not much is known about Korean clothes from past centuries. Fortunately, we are able to make some inferences based on various sources of data other than the actual clothes themselves. Historical records such as Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwa Pieces, well known to us, vividly depict features of the costume and the lifestyle of his time along with contemporary Korean humor and atmosphere. Kim Hong-do is the artist who, having accomplished pictorial refinement, recognized social change and took this into his artistic world late in the 18th century. The ruling classes, in contrast, tended to adhere to anachronistic medieval philosophies in a gradually changing society. In this study, Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop, Treasure No. 527, preserved in the National Museum of Korea, was viewed from a new perspective, and it was discovered to have assorted the costume and culture of ordinary people according to their life styles. Fourteen of the pieces depicted how common citizens made their living, three described love affairs, five depicted people at play, md the rest showed elements of education, wedding ceremonies, and shamanism, respectively. Various types of clothing were observed reflecting the life styles of ordinary people, and a somewhat bold exposure of body was noticed in women's fashion in the late Chosun Dynasty. They chose clothing as they pleased to fit their jobs and functions, which produced elegant self-regulation and creativity based on practical beauty. A hat - yet to be found as a relic - appeared in Blacksmith's Workshop, and revealed the changing social customs of the late Chosun Dynasty in the 18th century. It is hoped that the results of this study will serve as a valuable reference point for the globalization of Korean clothes.

• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.98-110
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• 2009

Performance art is an integrated genre of different art areas, and make-up is a visual art area to give lively effects to the performance art, which makes actors and actresses changed into the characters of plays. It can be said to be a kind of deliverer of idea to help effectively understand the contents of the performance. When we are in the world abundant in various cultures and innumerable styles of expression of different countries, we should rediscover the value of the beauty of our traditional masks that have represented the emotion and thought of Han nation, which we can find in play culture of our ancestors that has kept our ancestors' value system. That's the way we can get continuous life force and competitive power of our traditional culture. The Korean traditional masks haven't only been for the prevention of bad luck and the prayer of fortune, but also well expressed Korean people's looks, features and personalities according to the roles. They are excellent artistic works in themselves, and many studies have been performed on the analyses and uses of the features of the masks in various fields due to their good expression of different cultural aspects, while the studies in the light of make-up are rarely performed. Therefore, this article aims to analyze the features of the Korean traditional masks and, by using this analysis, to present effective make-up designs in outdoor performances through a stage performance. In addition, this article also tries to present the orientation of make-up as an expression of artistic image, and to expand the expression area of make-up by using the Korean traditional masks in the light of make-up. For this purpose, I examined the related literature and the precedent study materials to find the origin and kinds of the Korean traditional masks, and analyzed the features of the masks. Furthermore, I established the make-up design plan using the material features of the Korean traditional masks by analyzing the characters in actual performance works, and presented the photos of works actually performed.

• 복식
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.114-131
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• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.