• 복식
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• 제65권3호
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• pp.131-150
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• 2015

This article studied the procedures and items used in royal princess weddings by examining "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)" which describes Princess Hwasun(和順翁主, 1720-1758)'s wedding in 1732. This was the first wedding by a princess during King Yeongjo(英祖)'s reign. Preparation for the wedding was made based on the previous weddings of royal princesses, but it did not follow the old tradition. The wedding costs were cut down, and it was done in a simpler way than before. However, the simplification of elaborate wedding outfits were not part of this change as ceremonial robes such as No-ui(露衣), Jangsam(長衫) and Chopo(綃袍) were used without much alteration. The wedding ceremony of Princess Hwasun shows the transition process from the royal princess wedding ceremony traditions and rituals in the late 17th century to "Gukhonjeongrye", which emerged and became solidified as a new social norm in the 18th century. A legitimate royal princess and a de facto princess from King's concubine were hardly different when it came to their royal outfitting but the disparity in social status between the two was found in the materials used to make clothes for their respective husbands. Princess Hwasun's wedding procedure shown in "Garyedeungrok" is similar to that of "Gukjo-orye-ui(國朝五禮儀)": Napchae(納采), Nappye(納幣), Chinyeong(親迎), Dongroe(同牢), Hyeongugo(見舅姑), Hyeonsadang(見祠堂), and Seojohyeon(壻朝見). But "Garyedeungrok" deals with the procedures of Gantaek(揀擇), Buma-guanrye(駙馬冠禮), and Seonon(宣醞), which are not included in "Gukjo-orye-ui", and also with the process of preparation for wedding items and the information of related people. However, it is hard to learn about its specific shapes and features because it is often restricted to lists such as a list of clothing. Collecting new materials and an in-depth and succeeding study are required in the future.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.162-179
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• 2016

This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제52권3호
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• pp.200-221
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• 2019

국립한글박물관에 소장되어 있는 "혼수발기[婚需件記]"는 1837년 8월 순원왕후가 부마 남녕위(南寧尉) 윤의선(尹宜善)에게 내린 혼수품을 기록해놓은 물목이다. 노란 종이에 궁서체로 작성된 이 발기에는 4종의 관복과 평상복, 장신구 등 55종의 복식류가 기록되어 있다. 이 기록을 통해 19세기 전기 남자 관복, 부마 관복, 1품 관복 등을 살펴본 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 남녕위에게 보낸 "혼수발기"의 복식 기록을 통해 19세기 전기 관복제도를 파악할 수 있었고 "덕온공주가례등록"의 기록보다 더 구체적이고 사실적인 기록임을 알 수 있었다. 둘째, 남녕위는 순원왕후로부터 네 종류의 관복을 받았는데 개인적으로 제작하는 사비(私備) 관복, 즉 조복과 상복 흑단령, 시복 홍단령과 함께 국가에서 제공하였던 공비(公備) 관복, 즉 공복 일습이 포함되어 있었다. 공복은 부마의 명복(命服)으로, 관례복과 혼례복으로 사용된 중요한 의미를 지니고 있는 관복이었다. 셋째, 조복으로 금관, 대홍항라조복, 폐슬, 패옥, 후수, 항라백삼, 목화, 상아홀, 서대가 마련되었다. 이 기록을 통하여 1837년 당시까지는 조복용 중단으로 백삼이 사용되고 있음을 확인하였다. 넷째, 공복으로 대홍항라공복과 남설한초더그레, 남생경광주창의, 초록왜항라쿠리매가 마련되었다. 이 기록을 통하여 관복의 안감이 더그레임을 알 수 있었다. 또한 공복 안에 창의와 쿠리매, 즉 두루마기를 입는다는 사실을 확인하였다. 다섯째, 상복으로 사모, 금치쌍학흉배, 유록운문갑사관대, 남운문갑사더그레, 남쌍문초창의와 당자적화문사쿠리매가 마련되었는데, 특히 금치쌍학흉배를 통해 일반 관원과 차별화된 부마복을 확인할 수 있었다. 여섯째, 시복으로 분홍광사관대, 남광초더그레가 마련되었다. 시복용 단령은 무늬 없는 분홍색 광사를 소재로 사용하였고 안감으로 남색 더그레를 사용하였다. 일곱째, 의류 소재는 가례 시기인 8월에 적합한 항라, 왜항라, 설한초, 쌍문초, 광초, 갑사, 화문사, 광사, 생경광주 등을 사용하였다.