• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to study the beauty-coordination characteristics of Genderless fashion, which is emerging as a new trend by analyzing the trend in the latest collection and classify the resulting expression characteristics of make-up. Methods and scope of the study were based on collections published in the 2020 S/S season and 35 out of 84 designers with design elements were selected to analyze the garments most likely to be genderless. The characteristics of the expression of the genderless derived through this analysis were classified into compromise, androgyny, sensuality, exaggeration, enjoyment, and historicity. Compromise was the highest, and the lowest was for enjoyment of the classifications. The designer's work according to the characteristics of each expression shows that the pieces by Saint Laurent were the highest in compromise, sensuality, and historicity, and the pieces by Maison Margiela were the highest in androgyny while Balenciaga was the highest in exaggeration and enjoyment. Compromise represented a mixture of discord, such as incongruous bonding and coloring of heterogeneous materials, and androgyny led to the use of silhouettes and colors, with sensuality utilizing see-through material and incision lines allowing for physical exposure. Exaggeration intentionally destroyed the existing concept by breaking the overall balance of the human body through the enlargement of certain parts of the body, while enjoyment showed unexpectedness by destroying the line and sides of the garment. Lastly, historicity was analyzed for its retro design that transcends time and space with regional cultural and period characteristics.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.357-374
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• 2020

This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.379-388
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• 2018

The Hawaiian shirt, also known as the Aloha shirt, is a short-sleeved, colorful shirt with traditional Polynesian designs (e.g., hibiscus, fish) originating in Hawai'i. The shirt was selected for study because it is a unique garment that originated in the Hawaiian Islands in the late $19^{th}$ and $20^{th}$ centuries and marketed as a tourist product but was eventually adopted as appropriate residential clothing by the $mid-20^{th}$ century, however with different aesthetic details. Today, it is assumed by Hawaiian Island residents that tourists demonstrate poor taste when selecting a Hawaiian shirt. The purposes of this study are to examine the validity of the assumption that tourist taste and resident taste in Hawaiian shirts are different and to investigate the current Hawaiian shirt market change. For this study, 555 questionnaires were obtained from tourists and residents, and 10 Hawaiian shirt retailers/wholesalers participated in in-depth interviews. The results indicated that differences do exist between tourists' and residents' preferences for print designs and colorway. The market change of Hawaiian shirts was also recognizable in that an increasing number of tourists select Hawaiian shirts similar to resident customers, as part of their routine lives rather than as holiday or vacation garments. Other differences in Hawaiian shirt shopping behavior included the findings that tourists consider fabrication less important than resident customers who consider fabrication more (i.e., cotton 100%). By using both quantitative and qualitative methods, this study contributes to the fashion design and marketing field as well as help manufacturers and retailers with their merchandise and distribution plans.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.454-464
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• 2012

In this study, fitness tests for slacks were divided into shape fitness test and motion fitness test, and the fitness test conditions for slacks were designed as the first step for standardization of measuring scales. Shape fitness test consisted of analyzing the parameters of appearance sensory tests as described in preceding studies, performing a simulated appearance sensory test, collecting and considering apparel experts' opinions about the test parameters, and establishing test conditions in terms of test regions, descriptions and faces. For the regions of the abdomen, hip, crotch, thighs, and knees, the parameter of unnecessary wrinkle/stretch was observed from the anterior and posterior body, and then evaluated; for waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the parameters of ease and horizontality were observed from the anterior body and posterior body followed by evaluation; and, at the levels of waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the division of the lateral line were observed from the lateral body followed by evaluation. Motion fitness test was composed of reviewing and analyzing comparatively the methods of motion fitness tests as mentioned in preceding studies, and establishing test conditions in terms of test motions and test regions. For each of the waist, abdomen, hip, crotch, and knees, wear sensation was tested in the positions as follows: upright standing, moderate walking, chairsitting, bending forward to the maximum, and kneeling down, provided that as the measured points of garment pressure, anterior waist, abdominal protrusion, buttock protrusion, crotch, and midpatella were set and tested.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.776-784
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• 2014

KS K 0051(2009) was established in 1990 and revised in 1994, 1999, 2004 and 2009. Recently the structure of apparel production and distribution are changing like as small quantity batch production, increase of importing abroad apparel and increase of on-line shopping mall. Based on Social and economic conditions, examine the potential for use of KS K 0051(2009) standard sizing system for female adult's garments are needed. Through which, it was intended to suggestion for the revision of standard sizing system for female adult's garments which can facilitate communication among consumer, producer and sellers. The improvement point was discussed through review of the current KS K 0051 (2009) and abroad standard sizing system for female adult's garments, ISO 3637(1977), ISO 4416(1981), BS EN 13402-2(2002), BS EN 13402-3(2004), JIS L 4005(2001) and GB/T 1335.2(2008). Also, the revision of standard sizing system for female adult's garments was suggested using data of 6th Size Korea. As a result of this study, in the revision, formal wear, casual wear, training wear and under wear were separated to simplify the classification and the classification of body type were excluded. Also, it is possible that size designation was simplified through optional notation and letter code based on bust girth could be marked together in casual wear.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.35-48
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• 2009

Therapeutic garments are an undeveloped area and yet they have the potential to generate considerable profit for the fashion industry. In traditional Chinese medicine, there are spots and pathways on the body through which energy flows and practitioners consider that disease results when this energy flow is hindered. Clothes which stimulate the spots can therefore potentially help to cure disease. In addition, clothes are worn every day and can therefore offer prolonged treatment certainly in comparison with other treatments. Obesity is a big problem nowadays and one which is caused by poor energy circulation (according to TCM). A garment which stimulates the spots can assist energy flow and therefore cause the wearer to lose weight. In the process, it can also alleviate side effects of obesity such as diabetes and high blood pressure. The was to stimulate spots include acupuncture, acupressure, moxibustion etc. There are lots of products to press spots which improve energy flow both in the Western and Chinese markets. The basic principle of circulation is in fact the same in both Western and Chinese medicine. However, most of these are products are footwear ones because they can easily provide the necessary stimulation to reduce tiredness and improve circulation. For garments, to press the spots effectively it is best to use tight clothes such as corsets and leggings. The important point is to tighten the body and to make energy flow and yet feel comfortable at the same time. Choice of fabric is therefore an important issue. Although the idea has been introduced, it will be necessary to develop a technique which will allow the necessary amount of pressure to be applied. It could be concluded that this area has a lot of possibility for the future but further research will need to be done before the idea becomes workable.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.183-199
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• 2015

This study aimed to systematize the apparel vendor work processes and provide useful information to future employees of clothing export units by analyzing the processes of vendors' manufacturing tasks. A survey of 20 apparel vendors servicing mainly U.S. buyers was conducted on employees of overseas business departments working for more than five years. buyers. Based on the results, vendors mainly manufactured cut-and-sew knit products. Regarding the production method, OEM was used more frequently than ODM. Fourteen (70%) companies used the ODM method. This suggests that vendors are expanding their production method from OEM to ODM. In order to summarize the work of each business based on the clothing production process research results, buyers were in charge of planning products and the vendors were in charge of sampling. Production of materials and the approval of material tests were out sourced. Overseas factories of vendors were in charge of bulk (mass) production and garment finishing, as well as packaging and shipping the completed products. Even though the vendors' head offices do not directly produce clothes, they play a pivotal role in ensuring planning and management progress in clothing production. As buyers prefer direct contracts for cost reduction, the vendor additionally performs the role of an agent. Also, with the increase in ODM production ratio, the work area of the vendor is expanding. If Korean clothing exporters improve their global competitiveness by investing in the R&D of materials and design to enhance the ODM method, the development of Korea's clothing and export industry will benefit significantly.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.78-92
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• 2010

The culture phenomenon, which the desire of self expression is noticeable and the diversity of gender identity is widely accepted, simply makes a difference in the lifestyle of one human being rather than the dichotomous classification of male and female. Now, the delicate and aesthetic sensitivity classified as the feminine characteristics is no longer the exclusive property of female and this refers to substituting it as a social gender from the concept of biological sex. This phenomenon has influenced on the male culture and is creating various codes according to the cultural gender extended from the gender as a social role. Also, the transition into the western lifestyle has extended the aesthetic emotion to accommodate new codes from the diversification and globalization of lifestyle. The mansumer power, which does not care too much about the money for the emotionally attached items, has enabled various fashion styles. After analyzing the diversified clothing behavior conducted by these people in connection with the social phenomenon, First, this shows the phenomenon of emotional value pursuit that finds pleasure over the clothing as the item of augmented reality is added to the concept of play, in which the real space referred to as garment and virtual space of playing the rock, paper and scissors game meet together within the augmented reality. Second, the convergence concept has enabled the coordination of new style by obscuring the area of design concept and this refers to the changes in design from the development of new items and transformation into double-style details. Third, the divergence that intensively provides specific use/convenience and specialized value shows a change in the fashion market from the phenomenon that admits various gene rations of culture and specifically, takes differently about the recognition of middle-aged males. Fourth, the variety seeking tendency receives attention as the value of future design together with the phenomenon of discriminative value pursuit. In the male fashion, it is linked to the collaboration with the design area and this tells that the fashion with the narcissistic cross-dressing and motto of neutral gender without being sided to male/female is rising.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.15-29
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to examine modern people's lifestyle and identify their needs by analyzing clothing behavior through city nomads' attitudes in dairy life, tastes, and methods to pursue in their life. This study tries to understand substitute values as ethical life emerging recently, free life style of mental emotion, clothing behaviors, and fashion style represented by the results. Upon observing city nomads' fashion trend, tunics symbolizing flexibility and comfort and simultaneously reflect colors in a monk style or from basic items that have been used. City nomads' fashion trend also reveals androgynous freeness-and-easiness. City nomads reflect a folksy inspiration, and different cultural perspectives appear in a mixed fashion. Multi-purpose gypsy/boho style is ideal for traveling and occupying smaller spaces in line with the nomadic lifestyle reflectings an American casual image partially by way of gypsy or bohemian nuances. Motorcycle jeans symbolizing functionality for traveling are becoming a part of everyday life. The fashions discussed are categorized as urban, tourer, sports and road. Everyday sportswear - athleisure - is attracting attention enabling a healthy and sound lifestyle. Athleisure is fashion wear harmonizing workplace with leisure, and everyday life and social gatherings. Athleisure represents a significant collapse of the boundary of high fashion and street fashion. Urban- tech wear is light and enables modern people to perform garment and gear functions simultaneously, making storage useful using various technical devices by elevating activity and functionality. Urban outdoor fashion holding functionality and adding modern fashion in appearance has appeared.