• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2013

This study deals with the aesthetic characteristics in Gareth Pugh's fashion film. As fashion films are becoming a newly emerging communication tool in fashion, the aim of this study will be to build a database on these films. For the specific method in this work, literature reviews were performed along with the empirical study of seven pieces of fashion film. The results of the study showed that Gareth Pugh released the fashion films from 2008 to 2012, and he collaborated with SHOW Studio member and photographer Nick Knight and Ruth Hogben. Common themes in their films were fear, fantasy, dynamics, and going off-limits, and these can be summed up in the following ways. First, a sense of fear was expressed via black colors, bizarre mechanical sounds, decalcomania shape in abstract images, and transformed physical body images. Second, an image of fantasy was presented with diverse expression techniques including colorful light presentations and abstract image setups from repeatedly changed image reproduction. Third, dynamic feature was denoted with a combination of fast development of images and quick reproduced layouts, as well as quick beat sounds, and big and powerful action movements. Fourth, characteristic of going off-limits was reflected, by showing the collections with a communication tool called fashion film instead of existing collection concept.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.101-117
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to consider the works of Nick Knight, the most influential fashion visual maker, to find out the characteristics of his works. For the research method, literature reviews were done by studying his book, viewing the articles on his official web site, reading journal review of his works and his interview articles. For the work analysis, fashion brands 'Christian Dior', 'Alexander McQueen', 'Martin Margiela', 'Hussein Chalayan' and 'Gareth Pugh' that have worked with Nick Knight were selected. The characteristics of his fashion works were derived from overall analysis of fashion visual works. The characteristics of Nick Knight's works are as follows. First is the 'innovation of image expression'. He used digital infra in advance and introduced digital images at the initial stage. He used fashion films as the means of communication and tried new image expressions in 3D. Second is 'breaking down the boundaries of creating process'. He worked with various field experts to make high quality works. He invited the public to participate in his creative process through the internet. Third is 'breaking down the categories of aesthetic expression'. He provided a wide variety of aesthetic standard and refused aesthetic stereotype. He broke the boundaries between fashion and art with a unique technique and high values.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.46-58
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• 2016

Architecture and Fashion mutually affects the shape and appearance of the other as an art of space according to the hybrid trends. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to find the correlations between the characteristics of traditional architecture types in Southeast Asia and modern fashion. Firstly, characteristics of the types obtained through the theoretical consideration of Southeast Asian architectural tradition include vertical, symmetrical, geometrical, epeated and continual structure. On the basis of these characteristics analyzed from 2013's S/S to 2015's F/W collection of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Victor & Rolf, designers with strong creative and experimental minds who juxtaposed designs of two opposing points as well as hybrids since 2000, the following formativeness exists. First, the vertical structure of high floor is represented as a straight silhouette, a color contrast, vertical cut or wrinkle. Hence, it impresses verticality, rhythm, etc. Second, symmetrical structure of the gable roof is represented as a trapezoidal shape starting from the shoulder line or neck line widened into sleeves, impressing symmetry, dynamism, etc. Third, the geometry of the assembled is represented as vertical and horizontal bands or pattern pieces like puzzle, impressing geometry, three-dimensional, etc. Fourth, repeated structure of the weaving pattern is represented as repetitive patterns of woven fabric or printing techniques. Thus, it impresses repeatability, harmony, etc. And lastly, continuous group structure is represented as a connection of collars or hem-lines, as well as a crossing of fabric that impresses continuity, liquidity, etc.