• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.559-567
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effect, cellular protective effect and inhibitory effect on tyrosinase of Cosmos bipinnatus extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus flower extract ($11.48\;{\mu}g$/mL) showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC50) than those of leaf and stem extracts ($17.45\;{\mu}g$/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity (OSC50) of Cosmos bipinnatus extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/H2O2 system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus flower extract ($0.56\;{\mu}g$/mL) showed 3 times more excellent ROS scavenging activity than L-ascorbic acid ($1.50\;{\mu}g$/mL). The protective effects of the ethyl acetate fractions of extracts from different parts of Cosmos bipinnatus on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fractions of leaf and stem extract and flower extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($10\sim50\;{\mu}g$/mL). The inhibitory effect of ethyl acetate fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus flower extract ($62.75\;{\mu}g$/mL) on tyrosinase was investigated to assess the whitening efficacy. The ethyl acetate fraction of Cosmos bipinnatus flower extract showed 3.5 times higher tyrosinase inhibitory effect than arbutin ($226.88\;{\mu}g$/mL) known as an effective whitening agent. These results indicate that fractions of Cosmos bipinnatus extracts can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Fractions of Cosmos bipinnatus extracts can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant and whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.357-363
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• 2011

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory activities on tyrosinase of Rheum undulatum (R.undulatum) L. extracts were investigated. 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions of R. undulatum L. were used in experiments. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of R. undulatum L. extracts was lower than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as a typical antioxidant. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of aglycone fraction on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay showed the most prominent effect at a concentration of $0.265\;{\mu}g/mL$. The cellular protective effects of extract/fractions of R. undulatum L. on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}50\;{\mu}g/mL$). Especially, aglycone fraction in $10\;{\mu}g/mL$ concentration showed the most protective effect among extracts (${\tau}_{50}$, 757.0 min). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$, $11.20\;{\mu}g/mL$) on tyrosinase of aglycone fraction was much higher than arbutin ($226.88\;{\mu}g/mL$), known as a whitening agent. These results indicate that R. undulatum L. extracts can be used as antioxidant. Particularly, aglycone fraction of R. undulatum L. showed superior antioxdative activity and high inhibitory effect on tyrosinase. Therefore, aglycone fraction of R. undulatum L. could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.194-201
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• 2014

Clitocybin A is a novel anti-wrinkle cosmetic agent produced by the strain from a Korean native mushroom Clitocybe aurantiaca. In this study, fermentation, extraction, and purification conditions for a large scale production of clitocybin A were optimized, and its cytotoxicity and inhibition activity on the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) were characterized. The mass production of anti-wrinkle agent was achieved according to the 300 L fermentation process with a fed-batch cultivation using the modified yeast-maltose (YM) broth, and a total of 12.5 kg of cell mass was obtained in a 120 L culture broth for 14 days. After extraction and purification, clitocybin A was identified by HPLC. The cytotoxicity of clitocybin A was examined by the MTT assay. When assayed at 100 and 200 ${\mu}g/ml$ concentrations, clitocybin A showed no cytotoxicity, demonstrating safety. The inhibition activity of clitocybin A on the expression of MMP-1 was examined against UV irradiation. Oleanolic acid (control group) showed a relatively low MMP-1 inhibiting activity (ca. 16.7%) at 10 ${\mu}g/ml$ and showed increased cytotoxicity at higher concentrations. In contrast, clitocybin A showed no cytotoxicity at 100 ${\mu}g/ml$, and exhibited a relatively high MMP-1-inhibiting activity (33.1%). These findings indicate that clitocybin A may be a safe and effective anti-wrinkle agent for use in functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.821-829
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• 2019

This study was conducted to evaluate the applicability of the extracts from nipa palm, molokhia, and finger root in functional cosmetics as a natural active ingredient. The extracts were obtained through the processes of heating under reflux with ethanol, filtration, concentration, and freeze-drying. UV absorption and blocking effects of the extracts were examined by using the UV-vis spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. Antioxidant activity and its stability between the extracts were compared using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. Also, total polyphenol content in the extracts was determined quantitatively using the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent, with gallic acid as the standard. Antibacterial activity of the extracts was investigated by the disc diffusion test against Staphylococcus aureus (gram-positive) and Escherichia coli (gram-negative). Finally, collagenase inhibitor assay was performed to examine the anti-wrinkle effect of the extracts. From the results of this study, the extract of nipa palm showed the potential for use in cosmetics as an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agent, and the extract of finger root as a sunscreen and antibacterial agent.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.654-661
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• 2021

In this study, in order to isolate excellent whitening agents from fungal cultural broth, various fungi were collected from wild areas in South Korea and then screened for tyrosinase inhibition activity, as tyrosinase is a precursor for the biosynthesis of melanin in regulating skin color. A fungus strain that inhibits tyrosinase activity has been identified and confirmed as Trichoderma viridescens (later renamed T. viridescens SW-1) via ITS sequencing. In T. viridescens SW-1, tyrosinase inhibitory activity was strongest on day three of culture. A 5% culture broth showed a tyrosinase inhibitory activity greater than 90% and exhibited high thermostability on day three. At 10% culture broth, the accumulations of intra- and extracellular melanin were inhibited above 27.1% and 7.5%, respectively. In summary, the physical and functional properties of the tyrosinase inhibitory substances of T. viridescens SW-1 included high levels of inhibition of melanin synthesis and antioxidative activity as well as thermostability. Therefore, we suggest that the whitening substance identified from the cultural broth of T. viridescens SW-1 has potential for application as a functional cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of Mushroom
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.225-231
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• 2016

Hot water extracts from 16 domestic edible mushrooms including Pleurotus ferulae (Lanzi) X.L. Mao, Lentinula edodes (Berk.) Pegler, and Hypsizygus marmoreus (Peck) H.E. Bigelow, which are commercially available, were used for determining the cosmetic potential of these mushrooms. In this study, we carried out in vitro functional experiments to determine the inhibitory effects of these extracts on L-DOPA oxidation of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. Based on the results of these experiments, H. marmoreus (Peck) H.E. Bigelow No. 10 and No. 15 were selected for further analysis. We analyzed the melanin synthesis inhibitory activity, TRP1 and MITF expression via real-time PCR, and Fontana Masson staining in artificial skin $Neoderm^{(R)}-ME$. Taken together, we observed that the hot water extract from H. marmoreus (Peck) H.E. Bigelow (No. 15) had better whitening effect than the extracts of other mushrooms. Thus, it can be a potential source of skin-whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.2 s.51
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• pp.197-206
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• 2005

In the present study, the Chuncheon buckwheat extracts prepared from its seed coats, seeds and stems were used to determine anti-oxidative effects, the content of rutin and phytic acid, and the protective role against cadmium at the cellular level. futhermore, it was evaluated whether the buckwheat, mainly known as a healthy food source, might be applicable to functional cosmetics. Up to $100 {\mu}g/mL$ of the extract was not toxic in HaCaT and B16F10 cell lines using MTT assay. The anti-oxidative capacity of superoxide radicals was shown in seed coats extracts > stem extracts=seed extracts. Although its content of rutin, known as one of effective anti-oxidants, mainly exists in the stem, any extract did not eliminate hydroxyl radicals. Phytic acid, known as a heavy metal-chelate agent, was highly concentrated in the stem. The Chuncheon buckwheat extract had $10\%$ protective effect against the treatment of $50{\mu}M$ cadmium at which $50\%$ of HaCaT cells survived. Confocal laser scanning microscope revealed the intracellular generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by cadmium treatment. Finally, we identified that the stem extract had the most protective effect on the elimination of ROS.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.201-205
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• 2004

In these several years, as many people have been attracted by the functional cosmetics, there are a lot of study to enhance the stability of active ingredients for light, heat, oxygen, etc. in the academic and industrial field. Especially, catechin is well known as strong anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and reducing agent for oxidative stress but it is very unstable for light, heat, oxygen. etc. In this study, the stability and skin penetration of catechin are improved by 3-dimensional method. As I-dimension, porous silica is prepared using sol-gel method, and then catechin is adsorbed in pores of silica. As 2-dimension, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are obtained using non-phospholipid vesicles. Finally 3-dimension is completion through lamellar phase self-organization that combines SLN catechin with skin lipid matrix. We used laser light scattering system, cyro-SEM, chromameter, HPLC and image analyzer to analyze our 3-dimentional systems. According to chromameter date, the color stability of 3-dimensional catechin is enhanced by 5-10 times compared with general liposome systems. We also confirmed through HPLC analysis that 3-dimensional catechin is more long lasting. The effect of skin penetration and wrinkle reduction are improved, too.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.173-181
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• 2016

Skin basement membrane (BM) is a specialized structure that binds dermis and epidermis of the skin and plays an important role in maintaining skin structure. Structural change and destruction of BM is reported to appear due to UV exposure and aging, which may contribute to skin aging including wrinkle formation and a decrease in elasticity of the skin. One of the key components of the BM is laminin-332 (LN-332), and is a major contributor to epidermal-dermal attachment. In this study, we elucidated the effects of Meladrium firmum hexane fraction (MFHF) on LN-332 expression in HaCaT, a human keratinocyte cell line. Quantitative real-time PCR (RT-PCR) and immunoblot analysis revealed that MFHF induced upregulation of LN-332 gene and protein expression. Next, cells were treated with p38 MAPK inhibitor (SB202190) prior to MFHF treatment to analyze the signaling pathway contributing to LN-332 expression. The mRNA and protein levels of LN-332 expression were suppressed completely by pretreatment with p38 MAPK inhibitor. Furthermore, MFHF also increased the mRNA level of collagen type VII and integrin ${\alpha}6$ of skin BM component. These results collectively suggest that MFHF may have potential as an effective agent to stimulate the synthesis of BM components, and could be used to improve phenomenon of skin aging ascribed to the structural and functional impairments of BM in aged human skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2012

In the present study, the antioxidative properties, inhibitory activity on tyrosinase, and active components of Eriobotrya japonica (E. japonica) leaf extract were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf was in the order 50 % ethanol extract ($22.625{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.75) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (5.06). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of fraction/extracton ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescenceassay were investigated. $OSC_{50}$ of the ethyl acetate fraction, deglycosylated aglycone fraction, and ethanol extract were 0.75, 0.79, and $1.61{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The cellular protective effects of E. japonica leaf extract on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The protective effects of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf were increased in a in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). Especially, ${\tau}50$ of ethyl acetate fraction at concentrations of $10{\mu}g/mL$ and $50{\mu}g/mL$ showed the most protective effects at 390.8 min and 1471.5 min. The inhibitory effect ($IC_50$) on tyrosinase of E. japonica leaf extracts was higher than arbutin, known as a skin-whitening agent. The order of inhibitory effects was acetate fraction ($75.25{\mu}g/mL$) < 50 % extract (74.1) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (43.35). TLC of the ethyl acetate fraction showed 7 bands (EJL 1 - EJL 7). HPLC of the aglycone fraction exhibited 2 peaks, kaempferol and quercetin. The amounts of kaempferol and quercetin were 53.7 and 46.3 %. respectively. Therefore, The amounts of kaempferol and its glucoside were a little bit higher than quercetin and its glucoside in E. japonica leaf extract. Accordingly, these findings suggest that extracts/fractions of E. japonica leaf can function as antioxidants in biological systems, especially skin exposed to UV radiation, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Thus, the extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf may be used in novel functional cosmetics as antioxidants against skin photoaging.