• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.295-305
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• 2020

Treatment for beauty using oxidizing agents damages hair with inducing structural alteration in cuticle layer, degradation of protein, and loss of lipid. This study connects a frictional coefficient upon the damaged hair by an instrumental test to the texture test by human being, and considered a moisture as a factor of the damage. A friction coefficient has been measured upon the hair with successive treatment of dye, perm, and bleach. The friction coefficient from the hair dye-treated three times was defined with 0.60, where 58% of answerer indicated an initial damage point as the hairs of iteration of dye-treatment increased. Even bleach treated three times results in 0.84 of friction coefficient corresponding to 88% of answerer attributed the hair to an initially damaged hair. In order to figure out a lipid loss in hair for human being to respond damage, a friction coefficient of the hair was controlled by removing 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA). The initial damage has been recognized by 0.60 of the friction coefficient for the 68% of answerer. Since moisture is the largest portion of the components in hair, moisture analysis has been performed to study a relationship between texture of damage and the friction coefficient from an instrumental evaluation. As an iteration of dye increases, the hair became hydrophilic with smaller contact angle. It is found that a damaged hair by dyeing possessed more than 0.42% of moisture compared to a healthy hair. Finally, it is elucidated that an increase of moisture in hair induced higher adhesive force corresponding to the friction coefficient, and the friction coefficient above 0.6 is attributed to the preception of hair damage.