• 복식
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• 제13권
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• pp.73-79
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• 1989

During nineteenth century, there broke out a great revolution in the history of girl's costume and with new condition toward girls. 1. Girl's costume followed their mother's attitude of the era and it was influenced by mother's costume. 2. Girl's costume was closely related with politics, economy, society culture and thought of the era. 3. Rousseau's Englightment made a revolution on girl's costume and it was direct revolution which affected on the French Revolution and the independence America. 4. Development of textile industry by industrial revolution brought on a change in raw material, quality, and quantity of textile, more gave a variety to raw material and ornament of girl's costume. 5. The invention of Sewing machine made it possible ready made production of girl's costume.

• 복식
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• 제66권2호
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• pp.32-44
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• 2016

Having set a trend for luxury fashion brand markets since the $17^{th}$ century, France has established the norms and the forms of the fashion business. In addition, it has maintained its status as a leading fashion power by discovering economic value from the intangible value of design and brand, and developing fashion into a high value-added industry. This paper aims to examine the socio-cultural factors that have exerted a positive influence on the formation of "fashion power" in France from a historical perspective. It will focus on four major external historical factors that made France the top fashion power: insights and innovation of French leaders as well as their constant concerns and efforts for the promotion of fashion, a tradition of experimental cultures and arts, open and the public-centered social environment and an atmosphere of cherishing the values of creation, and the establishment of a legitimate system that protects them.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.295-307
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• 2001

This study was investigated to a effect of sociocultural environment on the vicissitudes of headgear in Europe on 19th Century. Form of headgear was increasingly more functional and simple. It was needed various items with various usage. Since Industrial Revolution the french Revolution. A diffusion of sport and increase of leisure time gave rise to entrance of mass headgear with reasonability and simplicity. But female headgear was more decorative than males. Until late 19th century when female has participated in social performance, female headgear was not functional and simple form. More often female took male headgear(fedora, straw boater, cap, tc.) than bonnet when female role-awareness was changed and sport is diffused.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.139-147
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• 1999

일반적으로 근대 디자인의 역사는 19세기 중반 영국에서 시작된 것으로 이해되고 있다. 이 시기의 유럽은 프랑스 혁명과 한업혁명을 거치면서 성장한 부르주와 계층이 역사의 전면에 부상하며 과거 봉건적 전퉁사회와는 전혀 다른 근대사회를 성립해가고 있었다 새롭게 사회의 주역으로 부상한 부르주아 계층은 그들만의 고유한 새로운 미학을 확립하고자 했고 이러한 과정에서 근대 디자인이 탄생하게 되었다. 본 연구에서는 지난 150여 년간의 디자인의 역사를 근대 프로젝트로서의 디자인 혹은 모던 디자인 프로젝트라는 관점에서 파악하고자 한다. 초기 근대 디자인 이념의 형성과정에서부터 최근의 탈근대 논의에 이르기까지의 디자인 역사를 모던 디자인 프로젝트의 형성과 변질, 그리고 이에 대한 비판과 재평가라는 맥락에서 이해하고자 하는 것은 이ㅓ한 논의가 현재 진행중인 탈근대로의 급격한 전환과정을 이해하고 미래에 대한 전망을 갖게 하는데 도움이 되기 때문이다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.55-74
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• 2004

This study researched the art-educational thoughts as a modern idea influenced with the social and philosophical transitions in the 19th century. Moreover, this study focused on Frank Lloyd Wright's educational thoughts, because those educational revolutions had appeared as one of the results that Western society's character was rapidly changed by those revolutions, so called, Industrial Revolution, American and French Revolution, and Cultural Revolution of Romanticism, from late 18th century, and eventually because that revolutionary educational ideas had closely and basically many relations with Wright's thought. As a result, even though Wright's education such an apprenticeship was a traditional shape, which was not the old-fashioned educational method discipling to the skillful man, but against the existing education through the self-learning from experiences in nature. That is similar to transcendentalists such as Emerson who searched for having an inspiration in Nature. Namely, Wright himself had struggled against the existing dualistic educational concepts through Wright's monistic thoughts on art-education including architecture based on not naturalism but the philosophy of nature by romantic idealistic philosophers such as Shelling, Fickle, Kant, Hegel including with his Master, Sullivan, and by revolutionary educators such as Freobel, Ruskin, Dewey, and above all by his Unitarian doctrine. However, Wright's thoughts was at that time so radical, and as Wright himself acknowledged that, 'because the philosophy back of it, of course, as you know, is midway I guess between East and West', such all philosophical objects to influence on Wright were so abstruse idea which is usually called 'Romantic' or 'Mystic' that is mingled with East's and West's essence. That is, because Wright himself catched that the theories and methods of the art-educational thoughts would not be easily perceived, and he judged that in a word as a character which could not be taught. After all, Wright's romantic progressivist art-educational thoughts have not been perceived, disseminated in general and widely.

• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.55-65
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• 2002

18세기 영국은 시대적 변혁기였다. 영국은 대외적으로는 단속적으로 전쟁을 계속해야 했고, 내적으로는 산업 사회로 전환하고 있었다 영국의 선주들은 계속된 전쟁과 선박량의 팽창으로 인해 선원 부족 문제에 직면하였다. 영국 선주들은 이에 대해 척당 선원 수를 줄이고, 선원의 임금을 올려줌으로써 해결하고자 했다. 18세기가 경과하는 동안 영국 상선의 척당 선원 수는 지속적으로 감소하였다. 1710년 100톤급 선박 1 척당 22-23명이던 선원수는 1810년에는 5명으로 급감하였다. 이처럼 척당 선원 수가 감소한 것은 조타기, 양묘기, 권양기 등의 기계가 도입되고, 선박과 범장의 개량이 꾸준히 이루어졌기 때문이다. 게다가 18세기 내내 단속적으로 전쟁이 계속되었기 때문에 선주들로서는 적은 선원으로 선박을 운항할 수 있는 방법을 강구하지 않을 수 없었다. 또한 선주들은 임금을 올려줌으로써 선원들을 해상 생활로 유인하고자 했다. 18세기 중엽25실링에 불과했던 선원의 임금은 프랑스혁명전쟁기에 이르면 5-10파운드까지 치솟았다. 척당 선원 수가 감소하고 선원의 임금이 꾸준히 상승한 것은 전쟁이 지속된 18세기에 영국의 선주들이 급변하는 해운 환경에 적절히 대응한 결과였다고 할 수 있다.