경주 황남대총 남분에서 출토된 서역계 유리제품의 미세 단편(무색, 녹청색 및 감청색) 36점 각각에 대한 두께, 비중 및 기포 크기를 측정하고, 10종의 주요성분 및 13종의 미량성분 함량 데이터를 사용하여 색깔별로 유리편을 특성화하였다. 주요 성분중에서 MgO와
사옹원(司饔院) 분원(分院)의 공인(貢人)이었던 지규식이 1891년 1월 1일부터 1911년 윤6월 29일까지 20년 7개월에 걸쳐 거의 매일 쓴 "하재일기(荷齋日記)"에는 국내외 정세와 풍속, 의례, 분원 관련 각종 제반사항, 일상생활사 등을 다방면에 걸쳐 다양하게 기록으로 남기고 있다. 특히 지규식의 신분은 양반계층이 아닌바, 이 같은 신분으로 쓴 일기는 흔치 않다. 그런데 필자가 여기서 주목하는 것은 "하재일기"에 기록된 의례, 그 중에서도 관 혼 상 제례 관련 내용이다. 지규식은 양반이 아닌 신분으로 당시 실제로 행했던 관 혼 상 제례 관련 내용을 "하재일기"에 기록으로 남겼는바, 이러한 일기는 매우 드물 뿐만 아니라 자료적으로도 그 가치가 매우 높이 평가된다. 특히 19세기 말~20세기 초의 관 혼 상 제례의 일면을 엿볼 수 있어 여기에 초점을 맞추었다. 관례의 경우, 일반적으로 정월에 행했는데, 이 시기에는 시행시기의 다변화된 모습을 엿볼 수 있다. 이는 일부 양반가도 예외는 아니었다. 혼례의 경우, 혼사를 논의할 때 개화되어 가는 과정 때문에 그런 것인지는 몰라도 파기하는 경우가 종전보다 흔했던 것으로 보인다. 그리고 택일도 신부 집에서 정했던 것은 아니었던 것 같다. 그리고 중인들이나 평민들의 경우, 신부 집에서 혼례를 치렀지만, 부득이 한 경우에는 신랑 집에서 혼례를 치루기도 했던 것으로 보인다. 지규식 자녀들의 혼례는 전통적 절차를 비교적 충실하게 밟고 있었지만, 양가의 형편과 사정에 따라 유동적으로 적용한 것으로 보인다. 전통적 예법을 무시한 채, 상중에 혼례를 치르거나 신부를 데려와 신랑 집에서 혼례를 거행한 것은, 근대화 과정에서 외래 종교 및 외래문화의 유입과 이식, 일제의 식민통치, 특히 유교적 사회질서 쇠퇴 등도 연관성이 있는 것으로 보인다. 그리고 이 시기에는 이혼도 종전보다 흔했던 것 같다. 상례의 경우, 임종에서 발인하여 하관까지의 기간이 다양한바, 종전보다 다소 변화된 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 사대부도 보통 임종서 발인까지 3개월인데, 여기서는 7일인바 이를 안 지키는 양반가도 있었던 것으로 보인다. 그리고 오늘날 일반적으로 행하는 3일장과 초우 재우 삼우제의 흔적을 "하재일기"에서 찾을 수 있는바, 위의 자료들은 그 가치가 매우 높이 평가된다. 제례의 경우, 제사 시간이 일정하지 않았을 뿐만 아니라, 지규식은 기제사를 지내기 전에 재계(齋戒)를 안 했으며, 심지어 제사 전날 술집에 가서 애인을 만나거나 또는 술을 마시기도 하였다. 당시 양반사대부가 하고는 다소 차이를 보이고 있다. 그런데 지규식은 기독교에 입교하고 나서도 기제사를 지냈으며, 천도교에 입교한 후에도 제사를 지냈다. 한편, 지규식은 특별한 경우를 제외하고는 한식과 추석 때 직접 또는 동생이나 아들들을 보내 묘소에 가서 차례(묘제)를 지내게 했다. 그렇다고 지규식이 10월에 묘제를 지냈다는 기록은 찾아볼 수 없다. 그리고 지규식은 돌아가신 아버지를 대상으로 지내는 생일제사를 생신차례라고 하여 거의 매년 지냈다. 그런데 생신차례와 제사를 별개로 지낸 적도 있어 특이하다. 신분제도가 철폐되고 일제가 강점할 무렵의 경기도 광주지역 중인출신 집안의 기제사, 차례와 묘제, 생신차례를 지내는 모습은 양반가의 제례 관행보다는 약간 다르고 덜 엄격하지만, 양반이 아닌 집안의 제례라는 점에서 그 의의가 크다고 하겠다. 이상에서 보듯, "하재일기"에 나타난 관 혼 상 제례의 내용은 자료적으로 그 가치가 매우 높을 뿐만 아니라 민속학적으로도 의미가 크다고 하겠다.
A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.