• Title/Summary/Keyword: Flat seam

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Effects of Knit Fabric Layering and Flat Seam Direction on Stretchability and Clothing Pressure

  • Lee, Hyojeong;Eom, Ran-i;Park, Sunhee;Lee, Yejin
    • Journal of Korean Living Environment System
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.533-540
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    • 2017
  • This study analyzes the stretchability and clothing pressure of fabrics made from stretchy knit materials, and uses the baseline data to develop various functional clothing made from stretchy knit fabrics. To observe the changes in the stretchability and clothing pressure, we observed the compatibility of the two materials (tricot and power-net), presence of flat seam, fabric layering, and flat seam direction as key variables. A standard test method for stretch properties (ASTM D2594) was used for measuring the stretchability of the material. Clothing pressure measurements were analyzed in terms of the mean and standard deviation values, and the correlation of the stretchability. In the case of tricot, the presence of flat seam increased the stretchability of the fabric regardless of the fabric layering. However, when tricot and the less stretchable power-net were combined, the presence of flat seam did not increase the stretchability. Flat seam did not interfere with or limit the stretchability of the fabric, but they did increase the clothing pressure at the seam. The stretchability had a negative correlation with the clothing pressure except along the flat seam.

The Effects of the Seam Type on Fabric Drape (솔기 유형이 직물의 드레이프성에 미치는 영향)

  • Paeng, Suk-Kyung;Jeong, Su-Jin;Chu, Mi-Seon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.418-424
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.

Development of Mash-Seam Welding Process by Flat Electrode Continuous Welding (평판전극 연속타점에 의한 매쉬심 용접기법 개발)

  • 조상명;조호재
    • Journal of Welding and Joining
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    • v.21 no.5
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    • pp.513-517
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    • 2003
  • Resistance welding processes are widely used in automotive applications. In particular, Mash-Seam resistance welding is typically used in Tailored Blank process. If spot welds are changed to a continuous weld, it's easy to reduce noise and to be more stable in cars. A arc welding, laser welding, seam welding using wheel electrode are available to make continuous welds on a car body, but they demand operator with advanced skills and expensive cost to develop. Therefore, flat electrode continuous mash-seam resistance welding process has been used to improve the weak points in currently available system in lap seam welding. This developed process has much more strength and air tightability, and also has much better plastic workability than laser welding. Moreover, commercial RSW machine can be readily used in this welding process.

The Analysis on the Clothing Construction Factors and the Sewability of the Mechanical Industry Working Clothes - With Reference to the Seam Strength and Seam Elongation According to the Material and Seam Types - (기계 산업용 작업복 의복구성요인과 봉제성능 분석 - 소재 및 솔기별 봉합강도와 봉합신도 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Gin-Ah
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.57-72
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    • 2010
  • The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.

Immediate Constituent and Technics of Corsetry in the 20C (20세기 코르세트리의 구성 및 제작기법)

  • 전혜정;김지연
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.562-577
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    • 2003
  • The object of my research is to inquiry into the immediate constituent and techniques of underwear after looking into basic theory of underwear, techniques by materials classified according to the matter of elasticity, and studying flat pattern and draping which are basis of corset and brassiere structure focusing on corsetry among underwears and production techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. To make the flat pattern of corset and brassiere fit to the body tightly, design dart two times without any space and draw smaller than the body. To support the breast sufficiently, move the side seam 1¼″ to the front panel and the seam should pass the apex in all occasions. For draping, dart should be added into short of elasticity materials in the past but dart is no use these days since the material today is extremely elastic. It is possible now to show the body line with only the seam or a pattern. In a case of elastic material, set the elastic direction to the grain line and have a draping as pulling from the center to the out side. As production technic, for an hem, put a zigzag stitch in elastic materials with a 10-20% short elastic band, pulling the band. Then make 3/16″-1/4″ short inseam.

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Low cycle fatigue properties of hydrogenated welding sheets of Zr-Sn-Nb alloy using funnel-shaped flat specimens

  • Lian-feng, Wei;Chen, Bao;Shi-zhong, Wang;Yong, Zheng;Meng-bin, Zhou
    • Nuclear Engineering and Technology
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    • v.52 no.8
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    • pp.1724-1731
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    • 2020
  • Low cycle fatigue tests on the hydrogenated welding seam of Zr-Sn-Nb alloy at room temperature and 360 ℃ had been carried out by using the funnel-shaped flat specimens. The relationships between nominal stress & strain directly measured across the funnel and local stress & strain at the root of the funnel are given by considering cyclic plasticity correction. The results show that the fatigue resistance of welding seam at room temperature is only slightly better than that at 360 ℃. Probabilistic fatigue life curves are obtained by using a two-parameter power function.

Study on the Simultaneous Control of the Seam Tracking and Leg Length in a Horizontal Fillet Welding Part 2: Seam Tracking

  • Moon, H.S.;Na, S.J.
    • International Journal of Korean Welding Society
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.31-38
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    • 2001
  • For the horizontal fillet welding with one plate in a vertical position, there will be a higher tendency of weld metal falling down rather than for the butt-welding in flat position. Such phenomenon could bring about the overlap or deflection of weld pool, and consequently induce the poor mechanical strength of weldments. Therefore, a precise position control of welding torch in conjunction with the weld qualify plays an important role in welding robot applications. In the present study, an experimental method was proposed for deriving a mathematical model between the leg length and the welding conditions. Finally, an algorithm was proposed for weld seam tracking and improvement of the weld quality. The reliability of the proposed algorithm was evaluated through various experiments, which showed that the proposed algorithm can be very effective for tracking the weld line and simultaneously achieving the sound weld bead.

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The Development and Future Prospect of Pair Trawling in Korean Waters since 1980's (1980년대 이후의 쌍끌이 대형(大型) 기선저인망(機船底引網) 어구(漁具)·어법(漁法)의 발달(發達)과 전망(展望))

  • Lee, Byoung-Gee;Lim, Han-Sup
    • Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.90-97
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    • 1993
  • Pair trawling is one of the important fishing methods for Korean fisheries, and is working in the western sea of Korea - the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea. On the engine power of the trawlers, 72% of 190 pairs of trawlers were equipped with 450ps class engine, and 21% with 450~750ps and merely 7% with in 750ps class 1980. Thereafter the engine power has grown up, so that 450~750ps occupy 28% and 750ps or more 27% in 1992. Main objective fishes of pair trawling were traditionally flat fishes, so the fundamental shape of pair trawl net was a four - seam net, but by the gradual shortage of flat fishes, roundfishes has been noticed. So the six - seam net which performs high opening of net mouth has been used widely since 1985. In the six - seam net, the length of wing was not so short in the beginning but became short in the later instead of the net pendant elongated, and also the pendant was separated into three pieces according to the change of wing structure. Since the 1990's, the objective fishes has gradually been changed into pelagic fishes, the fishing technique is required to fit the behavior of fishes. So the midwater trawling or the multi -layer trawling became required.

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A Study on the Analysis of Aesthetic Shape Shown on the Modern Flat Patterned Clothing (현대 평면의에 나타난 형태미에 관한 연구)

  • Kwen, Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.7 s.107
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    • pp.115-125
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    • 2006
  • The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.