• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제14권3호
• /
• pp.51-65
• /
• 2012

This research was conducted to provide basic data for the formulation of marketing strategies suitable to the increasingly globalizing clothing market for the elderly in the fashion industry, by comparing the clothing behavior and preferences of elderly women aged over 70 years in Korea with those of women in the U.S. The 106 questionnaire responses that were collected in the U.S. and the 235 responses that were collected in Korea were used for the analysis, The major objectives of this study were as follow; 1. It was found that the elderly women of Korea utilize mostly human information as information source when purchasing clothing, whereas women of U.S. utilize mostly media information. Comfort was found to be most important factor both countries, but the Korean women considered the aesthetic aspect of clothing more important than did American women. 2. The clothing preference of Korean elderly women aged over 70 years was concentrated in young and feminine images regardless of items, so it could be seen that they had strong desire for looking young. But American elderly women showed different preference depending on items, so it could be seen that they pursue diverse images depending on clothing items and personality without concentrating in one image. The comparison of the preference style by item of elderly women over 70 years of age between Korea and the U,S. showed significant difference. Accordingly, the designs of the clothes of the Korean and American women should be differentiated and developed according to the clothes item and country.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권1호
• /
• pp.81-96
• /
• 2006

Fashion is very superficial. However, it is expressed through the culture that is a cause of internal change and therefore its contents are defined by the cultural features. In this study, to study the aesthetic properties of the French fashion, the internal fashion contents are defined according to the cultural characteristics of France and based on the definition, the external features are investigated. The cultural characteristic was analyzed based on the reference literatures on the French culture. Based on the cultural characteristics of France, the aesthetical properties of the contemporary French fashion can be analyzed as follows: ${\cdot}$Dualism is the internal contents of the French culture with multiple sources, and it implies that opposing values such as female and male, traditionalism and modernism, simplicity and decoration are coexisting. Simplicity is pursued but decorative elements are in harmony and new phase of time is reflected while certain style has lasted for a long period of time to become a tradition. Furthermore, a rational trend combining masculinity and femininity, simultaneously exist with a trend that emphasizes feminine image. ${\cdot}$Multiculturism is a mysterious feature that has adapted the oriental or other cultural factors into the forms, patterns, colors and material of costumes. It has also been reconstructed with the French and the modern tastes. ${\cdot}$Avant-gardism is pursuing a novel aesthetic value against the former value system. It recognizes the human body as an object of figurative arts therefore emphasizes the body with geometric shapes to deny the fixed-idea, or engraft new materials and technologies to express the futuristic aspects.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권7호
• /
• pp.126-141
• /
• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제39권5호
• /
• pp.641-655
• /
• 2015

This study examined the ideal image and fashion of Korean women in the 1970s from a socio-cultural context. This study used information on the 1970s politics, economy, and culture provided by "Chosun Ilbo" and "Yosungjungang" as well as their presentation of the ideal image and fashion for Korean women in the 1970s. The ideal image and fashion of women were considered from the viewpoint of Hamilton's Meta-theory. The ideal image of women in the 1970s is divided into two aspects. The image from the traditional Confucian perspective was prevalent and restricted the lives of women to housekeeping chores. On the contrary, women have increasingly participated in society vis-$\grave{a}$-vis education and employment opportunities to present a progressive image of women. These aspects coexisted during the turmoil of social change. Progressive women had money to buy clothes because they were economically independent. These women embraced styles that included mini, midi, maxi, and bell-bottom pants. Further, pants were developed into different styles such as pant suits. T-shirts and blue jeans as casual wear were very popular among the youth. At the end of the 1970s, the tailored look and the big look (which copied men's clothing) were in fashion. Masculine styles such as wide shoulders with pads and neckties strengthened gender equality. Other fashions were dominated by feminine styles described as beautiful, sweet, and elegant that reflected Korean society's tendency to regard women as sex objects. Clothing that exposed the body highlights this sexual objectification aspect. Women wore miniskirts, hot pants, and bikinis because they wanted to enhance their sex appeal, propagating the view of women as sex objects. In conclusion, all aspects of society and culture were closely interrelated with a fashion style that reflected the values of those aspects.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제3권2호
• /
• pp.59-66
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제18권6호
• /
• pp.137-156
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze types of roles and fashion of the Chinese first ladies and provide basic data for fashion image-making of first ladies. As for the research methods, the concepts, role types, and fashion of the first ladies were considered by referring to the precedent studies and relevant literature. Then, the fashion images according to role types were analyzed by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies from the period of the Republic of China until today. The results were as follows: First, when the roles of Chinese first ladies were categorized based on ceremonial, political, and policy roles, Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping played a ceremonial role; Wang Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan played a political role; and Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing played a policy role while they were first ladies. While the first ladies of the Republic of China often wore classic Chinese styles like traditional qipao as well as western clothes which contained a western influence, the first ladies of the People's Republic of China wore more colorful clothes and more accessories in the later period, and also often wore clothes that combined traditional and western elements. Second, first ladies who played a ceremonial role showed mannish and classic images; those who played a political role showed elegant, classic, and diverse images according to T.P.O; and those who played a policy role showed feminine, modern, and mannish images. Fashion images of the first ladies varied according to the level of political involvement, the sociocultural background of China at that time, and their personality and preference.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.85-94
• /
• 2006

In Korea, popular stars were the leaders of the latest fashion, who had the strong power in apparel market. Costume, especially wedding dress they worm became the focus of interest to single women of marriageable age and wedding dress co. This study was performed to research wedding dress design (silhouette, veil, sleeves, materials, and details) from 1960's to June. 2004. Resources were extracted from the weddings photos, 'My Wedding' magazine, 'Vogue Korea' magazine and web sites. The materials, which could not be judged on the photos, were researched from text articles. The popular stars were TV stars, musicians, and actresses. The results of this study were as follows: The wedding dress in Korea from 1960's to June 2004 had different distinguishing characteristics. 1. In 1960's, wedding dress was characterized with A silhouette, long veil, set in sleeves, and hair decoration. 2. In 1970's, H silhouette decorating by belt, long veil, puff sleeves, and ruffles hemline were in vogue. 3. In 1980's, Victorian style designed by long and wide width, the leg of mutton sleeves or tightly fitted sleeves, short veil and pearl coronet, flower decoration became popular. 4. In 1990's, to reach the elegance or romantic image, it was used race, ribbon, frill, etc., on the base of 1980's wedding dress design. Generally the girlish styles which expressed innocent and pure and feminine were in fashion. 5. In 2000's, the keyword of both luxury and simple were intended. Silhouette was designed variously, but it became slimmer and simpler. The decoration was splendorous with race, embroidery, and beads.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제20권1호
• /
• pp.157-172
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the transitional aspects of the power shoulders with a comparative analysis of the patterns observed from the late 20th century to the present. The method of study was through review of papers as well as phenomenological approaches. Books, domestic and international journals, and dissertations were studied as part of the paper review. Phenomenological study was performed by analyzing the pictures from late 20th to present; and categorized by 10 year time span i. e., 1980-1990, and 2002-2012. Hundred representative fashion photos were selected, respectively. As a result, the power shoulder found in late 20 centuries was largely limited to horizontal and diagonal shape, addressed mainly to the jackets; while they were straight, and wide shouldered, with emphasis on masculine style. On the other hand, in early 21 century, the power shoulder was applied in various forms of straight, diagonal, circular and ornamental with objects, not only to the jackets, but also to feminine styles such as one-piece dress, vest, and blouse. This finding may be attributed to the fact that the modern people desire newer trends and women tend to show off their ability in transcending those of men. The findings of analysis of the transitional aspects of power shoulder in this thesis might contribute as basic resources for anticipating the trends that might be revived in the future.

• 복식
• /
• 제37권
• /
• pp.71-88
• /
• 1998

This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권1호
• /
• pp.50-65
• /
• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.