• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.59-66
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.11 no.7
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• pp.345-350
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• 2020

In modern society, appearance is an important means of competing with others, and therefore it can not be neglected in social life. Due to the rapid development of information science and technology, modern society demands femininity which combines progressive self - help for designing a dignified and independent life and a new paradigm. Therefore, the correlation between the elements such as bang cut, out line expression, layer step and texture change of modern style that modern and independent expressing independence and independence in the 1920s and 30s' Respectively. The result of this study makes it possible to present a novel and innovative hair trend that can firmly establish the independence and social role of modern women. In addition, it is expected to derive the standardization of thinking and psychology of the leader of modern society, and to lay the groundwork for the establishment of autonomous femininity as a social subject that maximizes individual competence through the manifestation of creativity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.157-169
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• 2012

The aim of this study is to serve as a stepping stone to outlook changes in men's fashion based on gender characteristics and the design proposal as a reference to shirts design for men's wear brands. This study is a theoretical work extracted from related books, dissertations, and web- resources referenced. Research method is as followed. It is based on the four main collections from S/S 2001 to S/S 2010 and selected designer brands among the most influential foreign men's fashion designer brands which have show cased their collections of 19 seasons in the last 10 years. These are what the study has found out. Firstly, the shoulder-line which used to be straight and hard in men's dress shirt has changed to comfortable curved line which falls from the shoulder to sleeve. Silhouettes were mainly shaped to an hourglass or slim silhouette representing the body curve line. Unlike how the masculine beauty was emphasized through the straight line, men's dress shirts nowadays used curved line for softness. Secondly, there were various designs with decorations added to the basic structure, making it no different from women's blouse and blurring the line between men's and women's fashion. Thirdly, colors were normally in bright ones. Tones were often in pale tone which used to be the women's color. Also choosing shades of yellow or red was a remarkable change in men's wear. Fourthly, through varying patterns and texture there were many shirts that gave clear visual effect. There were approximately equal portions of patterns with feminine image like natural patterns, abstract patterns, or small patterns and patterns with masculine image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.245-254
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to describe 20's to 30's men's fashion lifestyle and develop clusters in grooming related variables. We also tried to interpret profile of clusters, and determine the difference between different level of grooming clusters in appearance care behaviors, and clothing behaviors such as clothing selection, preference of clothing image and design in men's wear. Data was obtained using the survey methods by convenience sampling. Frequency analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, chi-square test, and t-test were used for analysis using SPSS 18.0. The result of factor analysis of men's lifestyle show that 5 factors are extracted. Two different clusters were formed after the K-means cluster analysis. We realized that the level of grooming activity is significantly associated with the young men's major expenditure item, and beauty/care items, and the reason for exercise. The level of grooming was strongly associated with clothing selection behaviors. In addition, there is a significant difference in preferred image between two different grooming groups. In the feminine image, HG group favored more than LG group. The preferred design was associated with the degree of grooming as well. Unique and stylish top and bottom styles such as cargo, hiphop, and boots cut were favored more by HG group than LG group. We suggest that we can do market segmentation by the degree of the grooming activity, considering the current men's taste and trend to extend market share.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.458-475
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• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14
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• pp.321-333
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• 1996

The typeface of the Shhnch 'ongjon woodblocks is unsophisticated and old-fashioned while at the same time having a tidiness and strength that give it its special appeal. This is the typeface used in publishing novPls for sale to the common people during the latter half of the Choson Dynasty_ Their demands could not be satisfied with most currently available literature. which was intended to suit the tastes of the official class. As a result of a development to overcome the unbalanced use of space characteristic of letterforms that followed the geometric principles of early Hangul. the typeface followed the refined. feminine "hrushstroke" style of kungch 'e. establishing itself as a "rough" face displaying the characteristics of carved. woodblock printing in answer to the needs of the common p-eople who had the greatest need of Hangul during the time of its f1owering. The Shhnch 'ongjon face is characterized by thin horizontal strokes. thick vertical strokes. and the appearance of being condensed left to right. They possess simple yet varied form. With these characteristics the Shimch' ongjon typeface. if revived and compared to other typefaces. has a beauty of structure and composition and a unique. modern lmage with excellent readability. giving it great significance for modern r langul typography.r langul typography.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

Hijab as a symbol of women's oppression due to the opening and reform of Islamic State group, is becoming more diverse as younger generation begins to dress more freely than ever before, spreading the perception that it is a fashion item. In response, this research conducted a theoretical review about the history of hijab, various forms of hijab, and characteristics of hijab using relevant literature, media reports, and fashion media articles. As an empirical study, image-oriented photo data shared by Tehran Street Fashion from 2015 to November 2019 were analyzed separately by fashion majors into color, pattern, and hijab-making forms. According to the analysis, six different fashion images were categorized as romantic feminine, modern chic, natural elegant, classic formal, sporty casual and gorgeous ethnic. For Muslim women in the past, hijab was worn as a repressive and closed sense by the religious system. However, in modern times, it is a way to express one's style and ideas as a fashion item. It is also and a means to express one's thoughts and beliefs. Through aesthetic consideration of Hijab as a fashion item, it was found that it was a medium for freedom of expression and a medium for beauty and individuality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2016

This study aims examine specific image preferences through selected fashion style and evaluation terms. Therefore, this study provided basic information in order to help select a suitable fashion style within a desired image. As times are changing, most people obtain information about fashion through the use of the Internet by utilizing mobile phones and personal computers and less through magazines, newspapers and so on. When people buy clothes, they seem to be more influenced by the design and color than by price and quality. It is not perceived important for buying like company, advertising, the place of purchase etc. The results of the analysis reveal the structural elements of an image having a sense of fashion style and can be categorized as a natural image, romantic image, elegance image, casual image and avant-garde image. Among the six fashion styles, the natural image is regarded the highest A style. The romantic image is the highest B style and elegance image is the C, D, E style. The casual image is the highest F style and avant-garde image is a D style. In regards to appropriate fashion style by ages, the twenty-something population is investigated in finding a fit that is lively and vibrant in style while the thirty-something population is perceived to identify with a more feminine style. The forty-something population has shown to prefer a more luxurious style. Through this observation one can see that there is a distinction is fashion style between ages.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Femme Fatale in Film Noir is a wicked woman character who seduces the male partner to a ruin. In the film, the dress style is of extreme importance for the personality creation of the character as well as the development of the plot. With this background, I have looked over the Femme Fatale dress style that appears in the movie . First, it expresses Femme Fatale which stresses the feminine trait by a dress style with enlarged chest and hip parts and long, slim silhouette with tight waist and knee line. Second, the Femme Fatale with pretended purity presents narcissistic satisfaction like a saint virgin by wearing a neck-high one-piece dress embellished with frills, but the use of mirror represents self-alienation and the vanity of purity. Third, the Femme Fatale with its military dress style presents authoritative sternness which leads seduced male into ruin with its destructive power. Fourth, wearing jersey type or knitted wear that sticks to the body presents sensual Femme Fatale. Fifth, the tulle, chiffon, and white handkerchief used for the creation of grotesque Femme Fatale represents harmlessness and prohibition of immoral behavior, and the black gloves, pillbox, and the number on the tulle present her uneasy psychological state from the fear of being discovered after murdering her husband. On the other hand, the see-through tulle presents alluring sensual beauty. Sixth, the combination of the dialogue in the final sequence and drapery type as in Greek goddess represents the saint virgin of salvation who acknowledges her own fault and returns to her purity again. In addition, accessories and others made from shining material represent hidden conspiracy through simple dress and contradictory dynamics, and shoes embellished with bonbon, etc represent sexual implications in connection with male.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.