• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• 지역과문화
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.79-105
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• 2019

삼한시대 조문국(召文國)이 존재하였던 의성지역의 금성산 고분군에서는 금속제 장신구, 의성양식 토기 등 다수의 유물들이 출토되었으나 출토된 유물을 문화상품 개발에 활용한 사례는 거의 없었다. 본 연구에서는 의성 금성산 고분군에서 출토된 유물 중 조문국 문화를 잘 표현할 수 있는 대표 유물을 선정하여 다양한 문화상품에 적용할 수 있는 기본 디자인을 도출하고자 하였다. 상징 유물을 선정하기 위하여 탑리리 고분군과 대리리 고분군에서 출토된 금속제 유물의 조형적 특성을 살펴보았으며, 고찰 결과, 탑리리 고분 출토 금동관을 의성 조문국의 문화를 대표하는 상징유물로 선정하여 기본 디자인을 도출하였다. 기본디자인은 세움 장식 가장자리의 새 깃털 형상과 봉의 서식지인 봉대(鳳臺) 기록을 근거로 새 모습으로 표현하였으며 새의 얼굴 표정에 변화를 준 응용디자인을 제시하여 일례로 책갈피 도안에 적용해 보았다. 한편 의성지역 출토 토기는 토분으로 활용하여 실내 공기를 정화할 수 있는 다양한 식물에 적용하였으며 금동관에서 도출한 디자인을 토분 팻말에 적용하여 식물 이름과 식물의 공기정화 효과, 그리고 식물의 관리법 등을 적는 용도로 활용한 사례를 제시하였다. 지역의 역사문화자원을 현대적 감각에 맞게 재해석하고 재구성한 본 연구의 결과는 조문국의 문화상품 개발을 위한 기초자료로 활용할 수 있을 것이다. 본 연구의 결과는 의성지역에 소재한 역사문화자원을 활용하여 문화상품을 위한 기초적 디자인을 제시하고 접목한 사례에 불과하지만 의성지역 문화재의 가치를 재조명하고 추후 의성지역 문화상품개발의 활용 가능성을 제시하였다는 점에 의의를 두고자 한다.