• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.29-40
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• 2008

This study clarified the classifications of Vietnamese traditional patterns and analyzed the symbolic meanings that reflect the emotional and cultural background of the Vietnamese. The type and symbolism of Vietnamese traditional patterns were analyzed through research on the history of Vietnamese costumes, the history of Vietnamese arts, the history of Vietnamese traditional culture, and a Vietnamese museum survey. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Animal patterns are diverse and include dragons, unicorns, tortoises, phoenixes, cranes, lions, bats, tigers, and buffalo patterns. 2. Dragon patterns are the most utilized pattern for practical purposes. They are often used in royal costumes, Vietnamese traditional dresses, mandarin boots, bamboo fans, silk, satin, ceramics, and other detailed decorations. 3. The patterns symbolized fortune that meant good luck and longevity so people can live long and happy. Then the symbolic meanings of patterns were followed by prosperity, nobleness, apotropism, prolificacy, and wealth. 4. Since the most of animal patterns have symbolic meanings of fortune and longevity, animal patterns can be utilized as the source of traditional patterns of design inspiration for the development of Vietnamese modern patterns and the application on Vietnamese fashion products.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.57-74
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• 2015

The history of foot-binding was once regarded as a unique practice accentuating the beauty of a woman and the culture of the costume, to be found nowhere except in China. This thesis makes it an aim to understand the culture of costume in China by analyzing the beauty of foot-binding, and its meanings associated with the historical background of the costume. The method of investigation was by both previous literature on the topic and case analysis. The shoes were analyzed by colors, patterns and decorations; selecting 70 pieces easily accessible in the Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum. In terms of form, the general type was of the most frequent, followed by one with an elevated toe, mixed type, and one of the downward toe, sequentially. The color of foot-binding shoes were mostly vivid chromatic colors, while the achromatic ones like black and grey constituting significant portions. In view of the patterns, plants patterns were the most frequent, followed by the mixed patterns of mostly flowers with butterflies, bats, and birds desiring the prosperity of descendants. In view of the ornaments, embroidery was the most frequent, while the mixed shoes included tassels, sequins, applique, and shoes without ornaments were of distributions. The forms, colors, patterns and ornaments clearly associated with the wishes of artistic beauty, sexuality, and rise in women's social status may be in the hope of leading others to understand the costume culture embedded in the Chinese by providing important clues about them.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.102-115
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• 2002

The purposes of this study are to comprehend the internal meaning and the external form in style of Greek statue's clothing in the light of linked solution, and to compare the characterizations of style of Greek statue's clothing with those in Greek Art. For these purpose, the theoretical studies about Greek art are preceded as a framework of this research, and then plastic characteristics of Greek statue's clothing and Greek art are analyzed by the documentary studies, For sources, photographs of Greek statue in Archaeological Museum and Louvre museum are used. The result is as follows. It is demonstrated that the characters of internal meaning in style of Greek art and Greek statue's clothing. The internal meaning of style of Greek art and Greek statue's clothing are as follows 1) Beauty of vital is subject that possessed life and movement and embodied dynamics or inherent power. 2) Beauty of moderation is subject that achieves some of its most impressive and practise a similar economy and restraint. 3) Beauty of character is subject that reveals the character of its wearer and has its own charm and distinction The Greeks clarified beauty by looking for mathematical proportions. It is the interrelation of part with one another, and with the whole, together with the additional element of good colour, which constitutes beauty as perceived by the eyes. The beauty in style of Greek statue's clothing consists of a sense of geometrical pattern, oder, symmetry, proportion, and rhythm.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.123-138
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• 2019

The hat on the back of the upper jacket in Scythian, in of northern region surrounding the Black Sea, is described as a typical woolen hood, but until now has been overlooked in Korean costume studies. The purpose of this study is to analyze the hat on the upper jacket in Scythians and to recognize the meaning of the hat. A further purpose is to complete the basic framework of research concerning the Scythian costume by adding the part that was overlooked previously As for the research method, we collected literature, previous research results, the exhibition catalog, and the related artifacts for analysis. The literature was collected at the German Archaeological Research Institute. The analysis of artifacts was based on data collected by the researchers at the Heremitage Museum in Russia and data was taken by the staff of the Heremitage Museum. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Among the artifacts in the northern region of the Black Sea, it was perviously believed that Scythians status was signified by the wearing of hat-tops. Regardless of age, warriors and knights all wore upper jackets with hats, so it appears that the people who are active wore upper jackets with hats. On the other hand, it was assumed that the royal family, who wore ornamented, colorful, and decorative hats were not observed to have worn upper jackets with hats, and therefore did not require a hat. Therefore, it is considered that the hat in the Scythian society was a costume element emphasizing practicality, not necessarily a class symbol.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.41-57
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• 2010

Yunnan, where twenty-six minor ethnics live, is located in Southwest part of China. They have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural and cultural surroundings. So, Yunnan is known as a living folk museum. It's worth examining how climate and circumstances change has affected certain differences of dress shape in same ethnic. Research into costumes of minor ethnics can contribute to the study of origin of the trousers, as this group of people have well succeeded the basic form of trousers through their cultural history and everyday life. This study, at first, investigates geographical surroundings of each minor ethnic group, and figures out the style of all trousers by measuring the each size, then compares design color pattern and fabric. The origin of trousers examined by formative characteristics has been classified and comparatively studied. The study materials are twenty-three trousers selected from in Yunnan Folk Museum as well as other relevant literature records. This study suggests that one can examine the type of human culture through the forms of costume which reflects folk custom geography economy etc. This, in turn, can be used as a basic information for other studies, and in particular, for the study of origin and structure of the trousers.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.105-116
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• 2021

Pillows are tools that humans have used for a long time to sleep or lie down and rest. It is bedding, and the oldest literature dealing with it is Volume 29 of 'GoryeoDogyeong', which describes embroidered pillows. The oldest relic is the queen's pillow (National Treasure No. 164) excavated from the tomb of King Muryeong, and is in the Gongju National Museum. This study attempts to investigate and reproduce the materials used in traditional pillows Yukgol pillows and pine nut pillows designs are based on literature and artifacts from the Joseon period to modern times. Regarding the research method, after reviewing literature and the relics of traditional pillows, the process of reproducing the traditional Yukgol pillow and the pine nut pillow production method were explained step by step. This study found the plain attitudes in the lives of people who used materials that could be easily gained from their daily lives in rural communities oriented to rice farming never recklessly threw out any piece of cloth or cotton and use it for pillow stuffing or pillow ends. Also, the sophisticated sense of aesthetics that you can see from the pine nut pillows, whose ends were made of remnants from making clothing are exquisitely similar to what was shown in patchwork previously. The biggest meaning of restoring traditional pillows was looking into traditional culture, particularly the ordinary people's living culture. It was very difficult because the researcher had to find materials that were difficult to obtain in this age, the making process was complex, and it took much time; however, it is significant in that the restoration of traditional pillows allows for the succession of tradition.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.237-246
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• 2005

In this study, researcher intended to extract the major factors of makeup design from Yangju-beolsandaenori-tal(masks) and Songpa-sandaenori-tal which have been handed down to the present among many kinds of the Korean folk masks, and to apply those factors to the modernization of traditional culture in terms of makeup design. The 17 Sandaenori-tals exhibited at 'The special exhibition of the Korean folk masks' in 1981 by the national folk museum of Korea were selected as the objects of this research. The formational analysis in terms of shape, color and material was conducted. The 5 factors of this analysis are as follows; face and hair, forehead, eye and eyebrows, mouth and nose. The beauty expressed in Sandaenori-tal includes naturalness, eccentricity and good-humor. The human feelings are expressed candidly and simply through naturalness. The eccentricity in Sandaenori-tal overemphasizes the shape of mask unsymmetrically. And it is expressed ghostliy in black, white and red colors. The good-humors in aesthetic viewpoint was expressed in surprised faces and innocent smile. Researcher applies the good humour to the art makeup in strong natural colors and shapes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.353-360
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined the changes of the man's underclothes from the ancient ages to the early modern ages. The method of study researched literatures and possessions of the museum. In ancient ages, a suit of clothes had the functions of both underclothes and outer garments. In middle ages, underclothes were not exposed and the importance was not recognized while they were worn to show the sense of sin and humility or to punish criminals. In early modern ages, the importance of underclothes recognized as they were exposed. In Renaissance period, the fashion of the day influenced much on the underclothes. In Baroque ages, the functions of underclothes were different according to sexes and men wore underclothes to show their social status. As the outer garments were shortned, shirt wwere also conspicuously exposed. In Rococo ages, drawers were tightened due to the influence of outer garments, men exposed their shirts to show the social status and underclohtes were usually worn to express sexual attraction. Men's underclothes had the functions of class distinction from the ancient ages to the modern ages, except the middle ages and underclothes had the additional functions such as supporting body-shape and sex attraction. The fashion of the day influenced on the changes of the shapes of the shapes of men's underclothes and the changes of outer garments were reflected on underclothes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.67-79
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• 2016

The Oroqen (鄂伦春) traditional costume refers to what the nomadic Oroqen people used to wear before they settled into fixed communities. With very limited contact with the outside world and with limited resources, the clothing material was virtually entirely animal hide. With settlement, especially after 1996, animal hide clothing has declined among the Oroqen. As an important part of Oroqen tradition and culture, the Oroqen people keep endevoring to promote costume design through competition and exhibitions. Therefore, this paper seeks to present an insightful understanding of Oroqen culture and the formative features of their general clothing. We explored the formative features of Oroqen animal hide clothing based on an analysis of actual artifacts and literature. As a result, the characteristics of Oroqen hide clothing were found in five types - coats, trousers, hats, shoes, gloves. For the decoration, embroidery and applique were their way of decoration, and Mother Nature was their source of pattern design.