• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권
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• pp.139-150
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• 1996

본 연구는 국내 패션업계 중 가장 오래된 기업의 하나인 코오롱 모드의 BI와 그 아래있는 5개의 개별 브랜드 - 아더딕슨, 아르페지오, 맨스타, 쟈스트, 벨라, 등의 BI개발 작업을 통해서 급변하는 패션시장 상황과 소비자 성향에 부응하고자 기존의 이미지 틀 위에 새로운 이미지를 형성하는 리노베이션을 위한 BI를 연구하고자 한다. 이를 위해서 구체적인 연구방법은 각 브랜드의 특성과 컨셉이 기존 BI에 어떻게 충족되고 있는지를 분석하고 대상고객의 라이프 스타일과 전체 패션시장의 경향에 맞춰 기존 이미지의 강점을 계승하고 단점을 보완하는 방법으로 이루어졌다. 신규브랜드의 BI와는 달리 리노베이션을 위한 BI란 기존의 고객은 유지하면서 더욱 더 많은 고객을 유도하는 것이 목적이므로 급격한 변신은 피하는 것이 특징이다.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1128-1139
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• 2009

This study is on the works of Hussein Chalayan that is an expression of his idea and abstract concepts such as culture, history, time, space, nature, and humanity. The perspective of E. H. Gombrich is studied to understand the works of Chalayan who is the one of representative fashion designers in the present age. The 'schema and correction' process of E. H. Gombrich provides a suitable interpretation frame that considers the variety of works of art and the deconstruction of genre in the after 20th century. Hussein Chalayan attempts to combine clothes with other territories to show the spirit as materiality. He expresses the clothes that speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space, and investigates the existence of human beings. Hussein Chalayan poses an endless question about the existence of human beings. He has put a question about the relationship of the human being and time, space, history, and nature. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works makes him the representative designer of the 21st century.

• 복식
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• 제61권5호
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• pp.48-63
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• 2011

Digital makeup(DM), depending upon computer graphic softwares, is applied to various fields, e.g. character works in movie and game industries and visual printouts in printing works. Focused on makeup field, DM is extremely conducive to developing, scientizing and informationalizing makeup patterns. Despite of unlimited potential of DM of which market size has been growing day by day, its practical use by domestic makeup experts and educators is much less active than expected as far, due to the lack of knowledge accumulation. The purpose of this study is to suggest some theoretical frameworks to generalize DM techniques and analyze two cases using the frames therefore support academicians' recent efforts to theorize DM techniques. The study 1) defines and categorizes the concepts of DM and DFX(digital special effect); 2) reviews the literature relevant to DM and generalizes the types and methods of DM techniques; 3) applies general frames to analyzing two movie cases, famous for their DM effects; 4) then suggests, based upon analytical results, some efficient ways for makeup experts to use DM techniques in practice. This study contributes to providing the theoretical grounds to conceptualize DM thus broadening makeup artists' interests in DM and awakening the scholarly concerns in cultural technology including DM.

• 복식
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• 제61권5호
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• pp.34-47
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• 2011

Grotesque make-up causes a visual shock among modern people beyond the standardized beauty definition, attracts their attention, and manifests itself as a phenomenon of "something bizarre, extremely unnatural, ugly, and funny." The purposes of this study were to investigate the characteristics of grotesque in today's make-up as well as its concepts and features and to figure out its aesthetic characteristics based on the results. The research scope was limited to the fashion make-up of the collections from 2005 to 2010 and the advertising make-up during the same period. In the make-up phenomenon examined according to the grotesque characteristics, the pale skin expression, frightened eyes, and emphasis on black induce disgusting fear, sadness, death, sin, fear for life and death, and obsession. As the make-up emphasized only one part by neglecting the original form and exaggerated it to the point of distortion, the exaggerated abnormality led to a sense of social crisis, desperation, and absence of form. As for devilish playfulness, the make-up accompanied by grotesqueness and humor brought the suppressed, closed world in a tight framework out to fluidity and openness, conveying satire, ludicrousness, ridicule, and accusation of the modern society. The heterogeneous disharmony was found in the use of objects in heterogeneous combinations, presenting unreality, fiction, displeasure, ambivalence, and loss of value of human existence.

• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 2006년도 춘계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.53-54
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• 2006

Recently with increasing interest in the operation of life cycle, building remodeling business is spreading like a fashion. Keeping pace with the trend, the present project carried out the remodeling of an existing neighborhood facility into a religious facility based on the concepts of remodeling, reform and renovation. Basic requirements were overcoming spatial limitations, solving structural problems, meeting various functional needs, and securing a spatial size, and the project designed the interior of the building according to these requirements suggested by the owner. To overcome the low floor height of the existing space, the main sanctuary on the 1st floor had the ceiling in the form of a slant and installed indirect lighting into the resulting gaps, maximizing the depth and width of the space visually. The subsidiary sanctuary on the first basement was finished with red bricks, forming an arch using the bricks, to create religious atmosphere. However, considering the low floor height as in the 1st floor and the ceiling even lowered by the arch structure, the arch was formed threefold and the radius of the curvature of the arch was enlarged to secure a spacious feeling. The outer appearance was finished with granite on existing structure to save the cost of construction. In addition to the use of the finishing material, the structure of the arch and the frame of the opening part and the finishing of the walls were expressed with uneven surface in order to avoid the plainness of the appearance.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.743-755
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• 2016

This study aimed to reveal the designer's creative process in the development of clothing designs. The researcher has taken roles both as a design practitioner and an observer. The full process of design development was concurrently documented while working to solve a specific problem. This included noting down the concept, keywords, and detailed scratch ideas, as well as refining the design by collecting sketches and taking photos. Integrated data from the captured design process were analyzed based on Lamb and Kallal's apparel design framework, which included problem identification, construction of preliminary ideas, design refinement, prototype development, and evaluation. The functional, expressive, and aesthetic (FEA) criteria of the entire process were thus assessed. Additionally, five professional apparel reviewers evaluated the design project based on FEA criteria. The results showed the processes for identifying targets and intentions, extracting the main elements from sources, developing the major visual concepts, and making final adjustments. Ultimately, this study revealed how a designer manages each stage of the creative design process. Sharing such detailed observations of the design process can help refine the knowledge involved in each stage of the creative process, and provide guidance for instructors in design education.

• 국제초고층학회논문집
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.271-291
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• 2016

There is much architectural and engineering literature which discusses the virtues of exterior bracing and diagrid systems in regards to sustainability - two systems which generally reduce building materials, enhance structural performance, and decrease overall construction cost. By surveying past, present as well as possible future towers, this paper examines another attribute of these structural systems - the blend of structural functionality and aesthetics. Given the external nature of these structural systems, diagrids and exterior bracings can visually communicate the inherent structural logic of a building while also serving as a medium for artistic effect. Viewed in this light, the visual appeal of these systems can be enhanced to give a tower a more distinct urban identity. This entails the creation of structural elements that are aesthetically pleasing, geometrically coherent and that demonstrate dexterity of application in regards to a building's composition, while also respecting the laws of physics and mechanics. In this fashion, an artistic approach can exhibit structural systems as not just purely rational features that enable the construction of tall buildings, but as important visual components that afford opportunities for creative expression. This paper, therefore, synthesizes the concepts of structural performance and creative artistry to facilitate a better understanding of the aesthetic developments in skyscrapers worldwide.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.330-338
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• 1989

The Korean apparel manufacturing industry started to meet domestic demands which had depended on importation in 1950s, growing into one of the export-oriented industries with several Five-Year Economic Development Plans. In spite of the development, inefficient organization of distribution of apparel manufacturing industry which connects production with consumption impedes further development of the industry. This study aims at suggesting desirable distribution system of ladies' apparel, the core of the fashion industry. This researcher interviewed those who are concerned in twenty-eight ladies' apparel manufacturing compaines, analyzing the current state of distribution in the industry and the problems. The results are as follows; 1. Forty-five percent of ladies' apparel is distributed through department stores. Therefore, the department stores need to assume their roles in sales and try to improve the condition and to train professional buyers. 2. The sales network is concentrated on the five biggest cities such as Seoul, Pusan, Taegu, Taechon, and Kwangju, prompting the need to be diversified. 3, Tke existing distribution forms distribution systems have many irrational factors which are aggravnting the rate of goods in stock. 4. The manufacturing companies do not implement studies on distribution. The companies should try to establish clear concepts on production and distribution on their own for better planning skills. 5. Computerized systems need to manage the procedures ranging from ordering, distribution, sales to inventory.