• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.85-90
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• 1999

A shroud is clothes for giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed:though our routine clothes have been western, putting on a shroud has been kept comparatively well as a tradition of a conventional ceremony garments. This study is about the current using of dressing a shroud, and for presenting foundations of a way about dressing a shroud in order to make the most of this by everyone, therefore this research will be worthwhile to preserve the traditional custom of giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed. 1. We must confirm the death of a person before we do Su-Si for controlling rightly a corse. Su-Si is ways of changing a clean clothes after bathing the dead person, tieing up hands, feet and ankles with a string, filling up a mouth, a nose and ears with a wad of cotton, laying down the dead person with his head toward east, and setting up a screen after covering the dead person with a bed sheet. 2. Here are processes of putting on a shroud. After the day of death, first of all, you must untie the string to control rightly a corpse, take off the clothes, and give a dead man a bath. You trim the dead person's fingernails and toenails, put them in O-nang, then put his hands and feet in five pouches, finally put feet in korean socks and wrap with Ak-su. You put a underwear in a overwear in order to put on the clothes easily, and then put on an upper garments after putting on trousers. And put on Sb-sin After you wash the dead person's face and his hair, you put gems and raw rice in his mouth, wrap head with cotton fabrics, and put hairs into five pouches, then put on a headgear which is filled with five pouches. 3. You tie up with hem cloth the dead person dressed a shroud after wrapping with Dae-ryum-km and So-ryumkm. 4. After you encoffin the dead person, you weave coffin strings with cotton fabrics in order to lift up the coffin easily, and lay down a red fabrics having white letters about the dead person's name or social position onto the coffin, then cover the coffin with a coffin cover : finally you leave the coffin at the former place and set up screen.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.245-263
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• 2016

This study was conducted to investigate the thermoregulatory behavior of young males in terms of self-identified thermal tolerance. We recruited 436 male students from Seoul ($24.0{\pm}4.6yr$ in age, $175.3{\pm}5.5cm$ in height, $70.1{\pm}10.6kg$ in body mass, and $23.0{\pm}2.7$ in BMI) in accordance with four types of self-identified thermal tolerance: 1) tolerable of both cold and heat, BCH (N=15); 2) heat tolerable only, HTO (N=118); 3) cold tolerable only, CTO (N=162); and 4) neither cold nor heat tolerable, NCH (N=141). The questionnaire consisted of 55 questions regarding preference to cold or heat environment, seasonal thermoregulatory behaviors including clothing habits, seasonal sleeping environments, health care/physical fitness, and anthropometric items. The results showed that: 1) BCH preferred less auxiliary heating devices, gloves/hats, or thermal underwear in winter and had very few experiences with cold/heat injuries or catching a cold, whereas NCH showed the opposite behavior and experiences as BCH; 2) thermoregulatory behaviors were not symmetrical between summer and winter. Most male students preferred cold beverage/foods to using cooling devices to lower body temperature in summer, whereas auxiliary heating devices were preferred to warm beverage/foods to maintain body temperature in winter; 3) thermoregulatory behaviors of NCH had more items in common with HTO than CTO, while the behaviors of BCH were more closely related to CTO than the behaviors of BCH were more closely related to CTO than HTO. Overall, we confirmed that thermoregulatory behaviors were apparently classified by self-identified thermal tolerance, and such behaviors could be adjusted by improving cold or heat tolerance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.172-182
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• 2018

The purpose of the present study was to quantify the thermal insulation of garments by item and examine factors influencing clothing insulation. A total of 769 garments in clo unit were collected and classified into 12 categories: blouses/shirts (95 items, BS), T-shirts/sweaters (62 items, TS), vest (23 items, VT), cardigans (23 items, CD), jackets/coats (75 items, JC), sport outerwear (including padding jackets)(48 items, SO), trousers (23 items, TR), skirts (56 items, SK), dresses (28 items, DS), underwear (150 items, UW), sleepwear (50 items, SW), and personal protective clothing (59 items, PPC). The results showed that clothing insulation was $0.21{\pm}0.01clo$ for the BS, $0.22{\pm}0.01clo$ for TS, $0.12{\pm}0.00clo$ for VT, $0.23{\pm}0.02clo$ for CD, $0.40{\pm}0.02clo$ for JC, $0.49{\pm}0.03clo$ for SO, $0.21{\pm}0.01clo$ for TR, $0.18{\pm}0.01clo$ for SK, $0.34{\pm}0.03clo$ for DS, $0.09{\pm}0.01clo$ for UW, $0.42{\pm}0.03clo$ for SW, and $0.56{\pm}0.03clo$ for PPC (p<.001). The most influential factors among the seven factors for thermal insulation of garments were clothing weight and covering area; however, the explanatory powers of two factors differed according to clothing categories. The covering area had more significant impact on clothing insulation in cardigans, jackets/coats, trousers, and dresses than clothing weight. Covering areas and clothing weight were the most influential factors in the following categories: blouses/shirt, T-shirts/sweaters, skirts, sleepwear and personal protective clothing. The garment weight was the most important factor for thermal insulation for the sport outerwear.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.9
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The increasing rate of obesity in school aged children has become a conspicuous social phenomenon in Korea. This has been linked to greater economic growth, increasingly westernized dietary habits, and a consumer driven society. Given that obesity can lead to social exclusion or unfavorable attention by other students in a school setting, the design of plus-size garments have become important for effective appearance management skills. This research aimed to establish a somatotype database for obese school boys, aged 10 to 12, in order to develop a sizing system for plus-size upper garments. In order to measure somatotype of average and obese school boys, five categories were recorded; height, obesity, length of trunk, thickness of neck and chest. For obese boys, subcutaneous fat thickness and position of B.P/shoulder point factors were recorded. Obesity factor was subdivided into overall and specific ones, and while the deviation of obese body types was severe compared to the average type. Obese body type showed significantly higher measurements in width, girth, thickness. This is linked to the fact that the frequency ratio of obesity increases with age. Stature and chest were chosen as control dimensions for boys' wear. As crosstabulation of stature(5cm interval) and chest girth(2, 3 and 4cm), and stature(5cm interval)/chest girth(3cm interval) sizing system showed, the most effective cover ratio and adaptability to the data distribution $25{\sim}75$ quartile. Based on the findings, 10 sizes were formulated for average body type, while 18 sizes were formulated for obese type, whose size cover ratios were 48% and 62.9%, respectively. The primary ranges of stature were $145cm{\sim}150cm$, while those of chest girth were $79{\sim}82cm$. Each size was declared as "chest-somatotype{A(average)/O(obesity)-stature". This study proposed a plus-size upper garment sizing systems for obese boys, accompanied with reference measurements for suit, casual wear and underwear. The finding showed that the two systems were totally separate and not overlapping, meaning that plus-size sizing system is essential for obese school boys. The obesity type system had more size and wider range specs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.