• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.81-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to summarize systematically and understand the characteristics of the production process of whole garments in order to develop knitwear using a real whole garment machine and propose this as a development case for high value added knitwear design. Concerning research methods, the study looked at existing research into whole garment knitwear and relevant data, data on websites, and the whole garment knitting machine made by Shima Seiki, a Japanese company, which has been the most commonly used machine in Korea. Also the study collected program data concerning a knitting machine and knitting by participating in the production process of whole garment knitwear, and the production line was filmed directly. In addition, the study conducted research into the development of knitwear design using the SWG-X 12 gauge. The conclusions obtained from the production process of whole garments and product development include the following. First, whole garment knitwear is appropriate for expressing a sophisticated look that makes the body appear to be in one form through natural connection without any seam allowance. Second, it is very suitable for response production since it does not go through the pattern, cutting, and processing stages. Furthermore, because of the consistent management of the entire process by computer control, it may be the highest cutting-edge fashion area in which planning and proposal style industry may be realizable. Third, it is easy to approach design through a programming process, and it is possible to develop diverse patterns; thereby, it is appropriate for producing high value added knitwear products.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.57-71
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• 2021

The purpose of the study is to derive an appropriate knitting method that can increase the appearance, wearability, and functionality through empirical research on the sleeve height knitting ratio of seamless knit wear. The study was conducted by producing seven types of experiment clothes according to knitting ratio to examine the characteristics according to the body armhole and sleeve height ratio. Specifically, after fit evaluatins, variance analysis (ANOVA) was performed to analyze the results of the evaluation, and the evaluated contents were converted into data. Among them, the items with significant results were intensively studied using the Duncan-test. The result showed that the height and the width of the sleeves vary depending on the knitting ratio. Test sweater A was the highest at 16cm, followed by test sweater B, test sweater C, test sweater D, test sweater E, test sweater F, and test sweater G at 4cm. The 1:1 ratio of test sweater A, was the highest, which is knitted in the same course as the body. The larger the difference in the ratio of body and sleeve, the lower the height of the sleeves. As a result of the appearance sensory evaluation, a significant difference was confirmed in the result values (p<0.001) from all items on the front, side, and rear. Specifically, the appearance of the test sweater B(2:4:2) on the front and test sweater C(2:4:3) on the side and rear side was the best. When the sleeves height is properly set, the ratio of the arm line to fit the design with a natural curve is analyzed as a very important factor. The results of this study are expected to be of practical use in product development and production that can increase the feeling when wearing and design satisfaction.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.665-671
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• 2005

This study aims to examine the effect of structural properties, subjective textures, sensibilities, and objective handle on the preference for weft knit fabrics, and then to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics through predicting the preference. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation of textures, sensibilities, and preference, we used the questionnaire that had been developed in the previous study. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncann multiple range test and regression analysis. The results are as follows: In relationship of structural properties and preference, we could not recognize any difference in whole ranges of wool/ rayon fiber contents and in 7.5mm and less stitch loop length. On the other hand, we could find the decrease of preference in over 7.5mm stitch loop length. As to subjective textures and sensibilities, a multiple regression analysis of preference indicated a higher determination coefficient by sensibilities than by textures. But there were little correlation between a objective handle and preference of weft knit fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.83-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship among subjective textures, sensibilities and objective handle of knit fabrics and to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation, we used 29 questions of subjective textures and sensibilities and employed statistical analysis tools such as factor, Pearson's correlation analysis. An objective handle was measured by Kawabata evaluation system and HV and THV was calculated by KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter. The analysis of a Pearson's correlation with objective properties and handles and structural properties of knit fabrics demonstrated a highly linear relationship. Especially, wool/rayon contents and WT of tensile properties and loop stitch length and G of shear properties showed a correlation coefficient over 0.9. But a relationship of objective properties and subjective textures and sensibilities was non-linear and a linear multi-regression analysis showed that a objective handle had a lower prediction power in the area of subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.11-20
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• 2011

The yarn company needs to conform to the consumers' sensibility, which has become diverse, in developing its yarn, which fixes the matter property and the sensibility in knit product. In particular, the development of fancy yarn, which is expected to have great influence upon the sensibility of material due to being a diverse form of knit yarn, may increase activation of the knit industry. Eight different fancy yarns were chosen: loop, Ratine, tam tam, fur 1, fur 2, chenille, ladder and tape yarn. The manufacturing methods of these yarns are all different. The sensibility was evaluated through a questionnaire targeting 60 women in their 20s of the expert group. Factor analysis, reliability, correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan, and regression analysis were carried out by using SPSS 12.0. First, according to the results of analyzing the sense factor, three factors were extracted: 'inflexibleness/rugged', 'lightweight' and 'smooth'. 'Activity', 'grace' and 'purity' were extracted in regard to the sensibility factor. H3(tam tam) sample showed high value in all of preference, purchase intention and word-of-mouth intention. To increase consumers' preference, purchase intention, and word-of-mouth intention, its effect is thought to be likely to be possibly seen only when increasing the factor of pure and simple grace and when reducing the hard and stiff inflexibleness/ruggedness sense. It is expected to be likely to possibly secure marketability as knit product, which has product competitiveness, given the product planning in a company of producing knit.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.111-121
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• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1924-1934
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• 2009

Mixture phenomena are present in the overall culture due to internationalization in a modern society. A unique feel is required in materials due to the increasing demand for knit wear and there is a need for a strategic plan to achieve this. This study analyzed the appearance frequency and expressive characteristics of mixture phenomena based on selected data from collections related to the mixture phenomena trends in modern women's fashion from 2000 to 2008. Among the mixture phenomena, the mixture of the high and low class cultures had the highest frequency of occurrence and was expressed most often since the expansion of design areas was due to vague high and low concepts. The mixture of sexes showed the sharing of knit wear trends between the sexes with the pursuit of functionality. The mixture of styles showed a tendency to increase since the traditional form was transformed into a mixture of typical styles. The mixture of spaces showed a mixture of old and traditional knit wear patterns from Northern Europe and modern elements. The mixture of other materials showed the partial preceding mixture and the decorative materials that existed beyond it. The mixture of functions refers to the used characteristics of the two items. Imagination will grow and increase the possibility of expressions with the mixture of the other areas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.52-68
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• 2012

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)