• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2010

Atayal studied in this paper is one of the indigenous tribe in Taiwan, which is receiving considerable publicity gradually. Atayal has a quite unique traditional dress and custom as facial tattoo. The study was limited to the conventional culture of body adornment of the Atayal including the clothing which is less preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are just a little included in the scope of the present study. Through this study, we can get know about indigenous tribe's cultural background, such as their life, custom, religion, and the influences on traditional costumes. As for the research method, I examined the Atayal's traditional costumes and clothing through related books, magazine, research papers, internet sites, and etc. I also examined the common ground between facial tattoo patterns and their clothing using reference books and official web-site. Traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of facial tattoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Atayal. In way, I hope this study will make a contribution to the field of Korean fashion industry which intends to enter Taiwan market.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.348-354
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• 2023

문신은 인류에게 오랫동안 전승되어온 문화 형태다. 인류의 여러 문화권에서 전승되고 발전해온 전통적인 문신 풍습은 역사, 예술, 사회, 등 다양한 분야에서 학술적으로 중요한 연구 가치를 가진다. 두룽족은 중국 남서부 윈난(雲南)성과 근처 지역에 사는 소수 민족 중 하나로 안면문신을 위주로 하는 '얼굴문신(文面)' 풍습을 가지고 있다. 중화인민공화국이 성립된 1949년 전까지도 원시사회 형태를 유지한 두룽족의 전통적 문화는 문자가 없는 구전(口傳)의 형태로 전해 졌으나 두룽족의 신비로운 문신문화에 대한 보존자료가 없어 연구의 필요성이 요구된다. 따라서 본 연구는 근현대 문헌과 윈난성 지역 현장 탐사 두 가지 방법으로 수행되었다. 얼굴문신 풍습의 정확한 이유와 시기는 알 수 없으나 1966년 중국 문화 대혁명으로 금지되어서야 사라지게 되었다. 얼굴문신의 상징과 기능에 대해서는 현지 탐사과 근현대 학자들의 연구를 통해 크게 신앙숭배, 성년 의례, 심미 장식, 민족 사회 역사의 4가지로 나눌 수 있으며 문신을 하는 시기는 7~8세 부터이다. 얼굴문신은 지역에 따라 상류 여성은 비교적 복잡한 도안으로 구성되었으며, 하류 여성은 간단한 도안으로 구성되었다. 문신은 주로 친족이 시술하며 주로 대나무 꼬챙이와 솥바닥에서 추출한 회즙 재를 재료로 사용한다. 현재 두룽족의 얼굴문신을 한 여성은 25명 미만으로, 대부분 고령화되어 있어 수십 년 안에 모두 사라질 것으로 보인다. 따라서 두룽족의 독특한 얼굴문신 문화에 대한 문서화가 시급하다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.