• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.784-789
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• 2004

The purpose of this research was to analyze how the evaluation method affects the subjective hand evaluation of fabrics and to suggest the efficient evaluation method. Three methods such as the sense of sight ＆ touch, the sense of touch, and the sense of sight were respectively used when judges estimated the hand of fabrics using questionnaire. The result obtained by the method of touch was same as that by the method of sight ＆ touch. The time required for the evaluation by these two methods was statistically same. Consequently, the method of touch has no attraction compared to that of touch ＆ sight. In case of using the method of sight, 8 properties among 10 showed the same results as in the method of sight ＆ touch. The properties of [moogupda/kabyupda] and [shinchuksung-e-itda/ shinchuksung-e-upda] evaluated with the sense of sight were different from the results obtained by the other methods. These properties seem to be difficult to evaluate only by seeing the fabric on the table. For the precise evaluation, it is necessary to show dynamic movement of the fabric. The time required for the evaluation by the sense of sight was shorter than that by the other two methods.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.979-986
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, and the hand of soybean/cotton blended fabric after dyeing with natural and synthetic dyes. Soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with extracted solution from turmeric, sappan wood, gardenia and synthetic dyes(weak-acid dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes). The hand value of soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with 6 different dyes was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts was the highest. 2. The color fastness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with reactive dyes was excellent. The fastness to the light of the same fabric was much better than the other fabrics. 3. Linearity of load-extension and tensile energy of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts showed very high. Shear stiffness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes was much higher than that of fabric of dyed with reactive dyes. Bending property of the fabrics dyed with natural colorants(sappan wood, gardenia) showed very high, but that the fabric dyed with reactive dyes was very poor. 4. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed the highest. Fullness and softness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed very low.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.317-328
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• 2014

In this study, differences of texture image and preference for men's suit fabrics according to mechanical properties, hand and fabric information were investigated. 55 subjects evaluated texture image and preference of 12 kinds of wool blended fabrics. For statistical analysis, t-test and pearson correlation coefficients were used. The results were as follows: Most of mechanical properties effected on texture images, and bending property and shearing property were effected on tactile preference and purchasing preference. For hand, objective hand values showed correlations with subjective texture images and preferences, but THV had almost no correlations. In sensory images according to presence of fabric information, fabrics were evaluated thinner, lighter, more pliable and smooth by cognition of wool blending ratio. For sensibility images, fabrics were evaluated more refined, intellectual, dignified and less practicable after recognize of wool blending ratio. In preferences, tactile preference was increased and purchasing preference was decreased after recognize fabric information. Therefore, significant differences of texture image and preference were observed according to presence of fabric information.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.296-304
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• 2012

For development of dyeability, the cotton fabric was dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation System, and observed the change of surface morphology. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity of load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the cotton fabric were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabric was decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness curve were increased. The cotton fabric dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, fullness and softness were increased, while flexibility with soft feeling and crispness were greatly decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing. And cotton fabrics were dyed evenly with persimmon juice by padding mangle.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.259-262
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• 2003

Fabric hand is ultimately a subjective response to physical stimuli, but there are clearly practical advantage in the development and commercial trading of textile fabrics to be gained from the replacement of the traditional subjective tactile assessment by an objective measurement evaluation method. Moreover, the reliable objective measurement method for warp knitted fabrics have not developed yet, despite their increasing importance. (omitted)

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.152-156
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• 2001

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.125-135
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• 2007

Each cotton fiber is a unicellular hair collected from the seed of cotton plant. The fiber contains many convolutions along its length. Mercer was the first to suggest caustic soda treatment of cotton in commercial application. Mercerization has been commercially used since Lowe's suggestion to endow cotton with increased strength and affinity for dyes with additional properties such as fabric touch or luster. In this study, cotton fabric specimens were mercerized to investigate the changes in physical and mechanical properties pertaining to the hand or touch of fabrics. Physical properties were measured using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System).

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.245-249
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• 2006

The effect of scouring, bleaching and dyeing on the low stress mechanical and surface properties of wool woven fabrics was studied. Fabric properties were measured by the KES-FB system. In general, mechanical properties of the treated fabrics are greatly affected by scouring, moderately by dyeing and least by bleaching.