• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.396-406
• /
• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.91-95
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate the improvement of fiber surface, physical properties and research the physical properties and dyeability of cotton fabrics treated with KOH solution at low and high temperature. The treatment conditions for mercerization with KOH were changed various temperatures(25, $90^{\circ}C$), concentrations(15, 20, 25, 30%. w/v) and times(30, 60, 180, 300sec). The effects of mercerization after KOH treatment estimated with tensile strength, tearing strength, shrinkage, drape stiffness, moisture regain, fiber surface, and dyeability. The optimal conditions were concentration of KOH 20%, time 180sec in low temperature and concentration of KOH 20%, time 60sec in high temperature. The results are as follows; Tensile strength, tearing strength and moisture regain were much improved than those of untreated cotton fabric. Shrinkage and drape stiffness of KOH treated cotton were more increased at $25^{\circ}C$ than $90^{\circ}C$. Fiber surface showed more rounded shape at $25^{\circ}C$ than $90^{\circ}C$. Dyeability of cotton fabrics improved by KOH treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.12 s.159
• /
• pp.1723-1729
• /
• 2006

Drapability is an important factor determining the end-use of fabrics. In this research, characteristics of drapability of men's and women's suit fabrics were analyzed. The hand and the preference for suit fabrics were measured by the subjective and objective evaluations. To find out the details of the drapability characteristics of suit fabrics, the drape was measured by using Cusick drape tester and was processed by image analysis software. Seasonal difference was obvious both in men's and women's fabrics. The average drape ratio of women's S/S suit fabrics showed the highest value, 0.724, then decreased in the order of men's F/W> men's S/S> women's FW. Wave amplitude showed the same order to the drape ratio. Men's fabrics were more drapable in spring and summer season rather than in fall and winter season. Women's fabrics showed the opposite trend, in other words, S/S suit fabrics were less drapable than F/W fabrics. There was also a significant difference in drape ratio between men's and women's fabrics regardless of season. For S/S, men's fabrics were more drapable than women's ones, whereas, for F/W, women's fabrics were more drapable.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.141-155
• /
• 2004

Chitosan, the natural biodegradable polymer derived from chitin by de- acetylation, has been widely applied to the textile finishing processes for excellent anti-microbial characteristic and handle improvement of fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of handle when cotton fabric is treated with chitosan-polyurethane mixed solution. The viscosity values of chitosan solutions were 8cps and 50cps, and the wet-pick-up% was maintained at 90%. In case of mixing with water soluble polyurethane, the mixture ratio of chitosan and polyurethane was settled on the solid content ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:2. Also the change of physical properties by neutralization in NaOH solution was studied. The results can be summarized up as follows : 1. Extensibility(EM) and tensile energy(WT) of cotton fabric treated with chitosan are decreased, but bending rigidity(B) is remarkably increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of EM and WT is weakened and the increase of B is weakened. The case of neutralization is similar to the case of polyurethane addition. 2. By treating fabric with chitosan, FUKURAMI(Fullness and softness) is decreased, but KOSHI(Stiffness), SHARI(Crispness), HARI(Anti-drape Stiff ness) are increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of FUKURAMI is diminished and the increase of KOSHI, SHARI, HARI are diminished. 3. As the viscosity of chitosan solution increased, the air permeability value increased. The addition of polyurethane decreased the air permeability.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.55-62
• /
• 1994

The mend for fabric products has been increased remarkably with increasing population, housings, mutistory buildings,...and etc. during the last two decades. However, since fabrics are highly combustible and can produce toxic gases during the combution, fabric products can result in serious human injury as well as financial damage. Acknowledged by this, a new phosphorus based flame retardant suitable for PET fabric has been synthesized by making use of the reaction of diphenyl chloro phosphate and hexamethylenediamine. Since the starting meterials are relatively cheap and the yield of this reaction is high (more than 90%), this reaction seems to be very effective as wall as very economic. By analyzing various spectrophotometric analysis data such as NMR, FT-IR, and Mass, this new flame retardant is identified to be N,N’-Bis(diphenyl chlorophosphoro)diamino hexane. In the mean time, DSC measurement has shown that the melting point and the boiling point of this material are around 115$^{\circ}C$ and around 40$0^{\circ}C$, respectively. The flame retardancy test done on the PET fabric processed by this flame retardant have shown excellent in times of flame contact, times of flame contact for washable. The most economical finishing condition estimated 10% in concentration of BDPDH, Moreover, it has been also found that the drape stiffness of the PET fiber processed by the flame retartant is changed very litter compared to the unprocessed original PET fabrics. Judging from this, the potential of this new phosphrdus based compond as a flame retardant for PET fabric seems to be high.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.29-45
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.38-45
• /
• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.78-86
• /
• 2009

When scouring and contraction finishing at $90^{\circ}C$ using Relaxer or Rotary Washer contraction and weight loss ratio in warp and weft directions were excellent. Also surface state of fabric after drying or sanding treatment was excellent without crease. Low melting polyester fabric showed a complete melting bond by heat setting(P/S) at above $160^{\circ}C$. The alkali hydrolysis reaction of polyester showed the breakpoint in the weight loss behavior test, polyester yarn showed a breakpoint ranging from 25% to 28%. This is due to the difference of the hydrolysis rate between regular polyester and soluble polyester. Initially the soluble polyester was eluted and micro-fibrillized 5 times faster than a regular polyester. At a later time, a regular polyester was reduced weight to impart a proper flexibility and drape property to the fabric. As a result of surface sanding finishing, the surface of interior fabric showed a surface state most stabilized when using Mesh No. 220 in mono 0.2d after elution finishing. When the rotation direction of sanding roller was pro-, pro-, pro-, and retro-direction, a directional effect of tuft was not shown, a writing effect as suede was exhibited and a surface state was even. Sublimation fastness was 3-4 class for polyester and 2-4 class for nylon. Light fastness 3-4 class after lapse of 100 hours and 2-4 class after lapse of 160 hours. Abrasion fastness was 3-4 class on wet and 4-5 class on dry Laundry fastness was 2-4 class. As such, the abrasion fastness is slightly reduced upon wetting and the use thereof for interior is excellent, whereas laundry fastness is slightly lowered.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.66-71
• /
• 1986

The studies were carried out to screen the optimum conditions for enzymatic degumming of raw silk yarn and silk fabric by use of Alkalase, a protease produced by Bacteria, comparing with Papain and Trypsin representing natural proteolytic enzymes. 1. The optimum temperature and acidity of degumming solution were 70$^{\circ}C$, pH 5-6 for Papain degumming, 40$^{\circ}C$, pH 8 for Trypsin and 50-60$^{\circ}C$ pH 8-9 for Alkalase. 2. By increasing the Alkalase concentration in the range of 0.6 to 1.0 gram per liter, the time for enzymatic degumming of silk yarn could be reduced by 40 minutes. 3. In degumming of silk yarn by Alkalase, the pretreatment of 95$^{\circ}C$, 10 minutes at 0.1% sodium bicarbonate solution or posttreatent of 80$^{\circ}C$, 20 minutes at 2% (o.w.f.) sodium silicate solution improved the efficiency of enzymatic degumming, as compared to that of nontreatment. 4. The breaking strength, elongation and Lousiness results of enzymatically degummed silk yarn were apt to be improved more than those of soap-degummed one. 5. When the pretreatment of alkaline solution was done with over 20% of degumming ratio, the enzymatic degumming efficiency of both Havutae and Crepe de chine could be reached to the same level with those of soap-soda degummed. 6. As the pretreated silk fabric with 20% of degumming ratio was under action of three proteases, respectively, the deumming efficiency of Havutae and Crepe de chine were completed by Alkalase more than by Papain or Trpysin. 7. The stiffness of enzymatically degummed Crepe de chine was not only reduced by 17% more than that of soap-soda degummed one but also the Drape coefficient was decreased in enzymatically degummed fabrics, which was closely related with the soft touch of degummed fabrics.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.72-78
• /
• 1986

The studies were performed to investigate the optimum conditions for tannic processing of silk by use Chinese Gallotannin and synthesized tannic acid, which are aimed at weighting, dyeing and physical properties of tannin treated silk. 1. It was reasonable that the concentration of tannin solution is 30 grams per liter of Chinese Gallotannin, 15 grams per liter of tannic acid for the efficient weighting of processed silk. The temperature and time for tannin treatment was optimum at 80$^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and the acidity of tannin solution at pH 2 to 3. 2. In dyeing the tannintreated silk by Acid dye Orange II, the temperature and time was reasonable at 60$^{\circ}C$, 90 minutes to control the desorption of tannin components weighted onto silk. 3. The colour differences ($\Delta$E) of dyed silk fabric by soaping could be remarkably narrowed by tannin treatment, resulting in improving the washing fastness of tannin treated silk by two grades more than that of untreated one. 4. The light fastness of tannin treated silk could be drastically improved by reducing the dye-loss of dyed silk fabric which was coused from the Ultra-violet ray irrdiation. 5. The rubbing fastness and water repellency of tannin treated silk was at the same level with that of untreated one. However, the Drape coefficient of tannin treated silk was decreased more than that of untreated one, which is closely related with fabric softness and dressing appearence.