• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• 한국재료학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.197-204
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• 1993

Plastic기 복합재료의 파괴거동에 미치는 원공크기오 판폭의 영향을 검토하기 위하여 단축인장시험을 행하였다. 점응력파손조건에서의 특성길이 $d_o$는 원공크기 및 판폭에 의존하며, 이를 기초로 파손강도를 예측하기 위한 수정 점응력 파손조건식을 제안하였다. 이 파손조건의 예측값은 실험값과 잘 일치하였다. 파손 강도는 원공선단의 손상비의 증가에 따라 증가하며, 이는 손상영역의 형성으로 인한 응력완화현상으로 설명되어 진다. 또한 불안정 파괴시의 최대균열길이 $a_c$는 특성길이 $d_o$의 약 2배의 값을 나타낸다. 파괴인성에 대응하는 한계에너지해방율 $G_c$의 변화는 원공선단의 손상영역의 증가에 의한 응력완화가 주요한 원인이라고 할 수 있다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제12권34호
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• pp.663-677
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• 1974

The social and psychological approaches to clothing researches by Fluge,l, Hurlock and Barr in the early 1930's have since been developed greatly. It has now been generally agreed that clothing is the symbol of one's personality and social status, for clothing is regarded as the second skin and a manifestation of one's emotional states as well. Based on this consensus, this study was intended to observe the possible relationship between one's clothing design preference-in line, color and texture- and interest. For this survey, 200 college woman students from four universities were selected at random, and an interest-test standardized by prof. Jung Bum Mo and a questionaire made of 20 items on the clothing prferences were given. The results as commputerized and analyzed are as follows : 1. Line Preference a) Structural line : It is quite obvious that those like straight line are interested in fine arts, and curved line in physics. b) Out-line : Among tubular, bell and bustle of the silhouette, those like the bustle have shown particular interest in music, and the tubular in politics and business. c) Style : There is a salient tendency that those like a dressy style are much interested in music, and casual style in physics and physical exercise. 2. Color Preference a) Favorite color : Those like red, orange and yellow show a high interest in artistic activities and physical exercise, and black, grey and white in politics. b) Variety and combination of color ; These have shown no relationship to the interest. 3. Texture Preference a) The touch : Those like the texture with the feeling the crisp and rough are interested in fine arts, and of soft and smooth in the field of social service. b) Fabric surface : Those like naturalistic pattern, i.e. print of flowers, show much interest in music and literature, and plain fabrics in physical exercise.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.22-30
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• 2012

Nowadays the issue of environmental pollution and ecological destruction is not a simple issue but an important issue to be continuously considered. It is deemed that a study for recycled new materials is immediately required and this study is to analyze features and processing methods of new materials which can be used to interior space. We found the recycled new materials used for space through researching various web sits. And then we analyzed what the base materials are and classified that base materials are whether natural or artificial of the recycled materials. We classified processing methods of the recycled new materials after researching general processing methods. The result of this study would be an important material to the research and development of new finishing materials with consideration of environment and to the research for a guideline of applicable new materials. The results of this study are as follows : First, we could classify widely 2 categories into natural material and artificial material and then 10 subcategories into metal, glass, wood, rubber, stone, plastic, leather or fabric, ceramic, concrete and so on, and analyzed that which material is mostly used and whether it is single material or multiple material. In order to analyze the feature of processing method. Second, we could classify into 4 categories such as junction, surface process, molding, and insert, and found out which processing method is applied based on objects of research. Third, as an analysis result of the recycled new material feature, in order to develop various new materials, it is required to study on combination and application of 2 materials or more rather than single material. Four, as a analysis result of the processing method feature, I would like to suggest that development and application of various processing methods are required. Especially, it is necessary to grope for a way to develop new functional materials for interior space through a systemic research and analysis of processing method of other fields. Furthermore, a way to reuse recycled new materials should be considered in a stage of selection and application of processing method.

• 전기학회논문지
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.1141-1148
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• 2017

Generally, a thermistor made by sintering a metal oxide is widely used to measure the ambient temperature. This thermistor is widely used not only for industrial use but also for medical use because of its excellent sensitivity, durability, temperature change characteristics and low cost. In particular, the normal body temperature is 36.9 degrees relative to the armpit temperature, and it is most closely related to the circulating blood flow. Previous studies have shown that body temperature changes during biomechanical changes and body temperature changes by anomalous signs or illnesses. Therefore, in this study, we propose a Lock-In-Amp design to detect minute temperature changes of clothing and thermistor wired by a preacher as a method to regularly measure body temperature in daily life. Especially, it is designed to measure the minute resistance change of the thermistor according to body temperature change even in a low-cost microprocessor environment by using a micro-processor-based Lock-In-Amp, and a jacquard and the thermistor is arranged so as to be close to the side, so that the reference body temperature can be easily measured. The temperature was measured and stored in real time using short-range wireless communication for non - restraint temperature monitoring. A baby vest was made to verify its performance through temperature experiments for infants. The measurement of infant body temperature through the existing skin sensor or thermometer has limitations in monitoring infant body temperature for a long time without restriction. However, it can be overcome by using the embroidery fabric based micro temperature monitoring wireless monitoring device proposed in this study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.804-816
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• 2009

This study was aimed to analyze color characteristics of silk fabrics dyed with a variety of commercial natural dyes focusing on hue/tone system. Using eleven different natural dyes, single and sequential dyeing were performed under a variety of conditions of dye bath concentration, mordanting, and dyeing sequences. Color characteristics of dyed silk fabrics were investigated by Munsell's color notation of H V/C and PCCS (Practical Color Coordination System) tones. As results, most of yellowish natural dyes as principal shades in natural dyeing showed Y or YR for hue families while d, ltg, and g for tone, which agrees with colors frequently used in comtemporary apparel industries. As for single dyeing, some hues like R, RP, G, GY, and BG were found to have their own tones owing to the used natural dyes. For varying hues in natural dyeing, sequential dyeing is useful in that GY, G, and BG rarely appeared in single dyeing were frequently shown in sequential dyeing by combination of some dyes. In the other hands, mordanting may be employed for tone variation in that aluminum seemed to contribute to light and dull tones, copper to dull, and ferrum to garyish and dark ones. These results can be helpful to design colors for fashion fields by natural dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.451-462
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is 1) to find out the dominant clothing ornaments in Europe in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, 2) to examine the changes of such clothing details as neckline and collar, sleeve and stomacher from 16th to 18th century 3) and to classify the ornaments of these 3 centuries according to Yin and Yang's traits. An analysis was conducted of 405 pieces of art out of 10 books of costume history. Of these pieces, 121 were from the Renaissance era, 107 were Baraque and 177 were Rococo. The analysis found that the distinctive ornaments in 16th century were ruff, slash, chain and girdle decoration. The distinctive ornaments of Baroque period were tassel, fringe, loop and binding. The Rococo period were distinguished by falbala, sash belt and fabric necklace. With regard to the changes over the 3 centuries necklines changed from high to lower. Sleeves became shorter. Stomacher which was long and sharp became wider and shorter. As to the Yin and Yang's traits there was also an evolution. Renaissance costume with Yang's style was decorated mostly Yang influenced ornaments. Baroque clothing was a mixed of Yin and Yang, as were the ornaments. By Rococo both clothing and ornaments reflected Yin's traits.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.140-153
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• 2019

The aim of this study is to develop new wedding dress designs by blending the traditional female Korean upper garment of Han-bok, known as dang-ui, with Western-style wedding dress designs. For this research, the author considered the various types of wedding dresses and their historical development based on literary resources and previous studies of the subject. The results are as follows: first, this study featured the use of different types of fabric for the dang-ui, selected from the various fabrics available for wedding dresses. Starting from the basic design of a sleeveless and strapless princess-line tight top, three different styles of A-line dresses were created: a tiered long dress, an unbalanced tiered midi dress, and a spangled and pleated mini dress. The study also resulted in a tight H-line mini dress with a bustle. In this way, the author was able to suggest new wedding dress styles that are well suited to the cultural trend of the Korean wave. Second, the traditional Korean dang-ui is an elegant ceremonial garment that harmonizes well with Western-style wedding dresses. Satisfaction can be found from combining these creative fusion gowns with traditional Korean aesthetics. Third, the traditional Korean ceremonial coronet jokduri and veil, which go well with dang-ui wedding dresses, are suitable accessories for contemporary wedding dresses. The dang-ui wedding dress, a result of merging the Korean dang-ui and the Western style, will help enhance business for both the Korean and the international wedding industry thanks to an aesthetic that has global appeal.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.