• Title/Summary/Keyword: Fabric as the money

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A Study on the Dress in Nogultai(老乞大) (老乞大의 복식연구)

  • 김진구
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.

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A costume study on the basis of descriptions in the novel Im Kkeok Jeong

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.36-52
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    • 2008
  • Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.

A Historical Study of Textiles - With an Emphasis on Korean Cotton Fabrics - (직물(織物)의 역사적(歷史的) 고찰(考察) - 우리나라의 선직물(線織物)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Soon-Hong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.5
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    • pp.65-81
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    • 1981
  • I referred to documents to study the origin and the progressing process of textiles. Cotton seeds were first imported from China by Mun, Ik Jem at the end of the era of Koryeo, and cotton had several different names such as mok-myen, cho-myen, gil-pae, baek-chep-za, tap-po, ban-ki-wha, dong-yep-po and so on. Since the era of the Three Kingdoms, people had heard of cloth of superior quality but it was not certain whether it was imported from China or made in our country. It seems that cotton was not made during that period, white silk, hemp cloth, and ramie fabric were produced. At that time, linen was called cotton by mistake. After importing cotton seeds from China, all the people began to plant them and made their clothes from them. At the beginning of the Yi Dynasty, the weaving technique was dependent on China. However, the government persuaded farmers to plant them. At that time cotton was used as a means of purchasing instead of money. Silkworms raising started during the era of the Three Kingdoms and it was widely spread at the beginning of the Yi Dynasty. In order to encourage sericulture' spinning and weaving instruments were installed in the royal palace and the queen with sher court maids demonstrated how to spin and weave. The activity was named "chin-jam-ye." Linen was the representative of all textiles and it was also very popular. The technique of weaving had already been highly developed at the era of Silla. During the era of the Three Kingdoms people used "bang-chu-cha" as a weaving instrument. They discovered several new hand machines in the period of the Yi Dynasty: they were instrument of removing seeds, spinning wheel, hemp cloth loom and so on, and we find the remains of them these days.

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The Factorial Structure Analysis of the Criteria on Clothing Selection (의복선택기준에 관한 요인구조분석 -서울시내 주부를 중심으로-)

  • Park Eun Joo;Lee Eun Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.49-55
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    • 1982
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the factorial structure of the criteria on clothing selection. Data were obtained from 219 housewives in Seoul. 95 likert type questions were selected from the existing questionnaires and from the open end questions. The items were analyzed for discriminating power, followed by the factor analysis. 57 items were subjected to the principal component analysis with orthogonal rotation after extraction of 5 major factors. 47 items were found to be significantly loaded to at least one of the five factors. The factors had the following characteristics: Factor I. The persons scoring high on this factor would invest time and energy in their clothes to achieve their image and individuality. They were interested in clothes, appearance and fashion. Factor II. The persons scoring high on this factor were more concerned about the practicality of clothing, such as ease-of-care, comfort, texture and quality of fabric. They would not select the clothes which soiled easily and would not perform as expected. Factor III. High scores on this factor were associated with the eagerness to get the cloth-ing value for the money. They would make a long plan to buy an expensive clothing and choose a unique clothing regardless of fashion. Factor IV. A high score on this factor was suggestive of modesty. They were willing to buy inconspicuous clothes, such as dark or muted colors, small prints and conservative styles. Factor V. High scores on this factor were characterized by the desire for conformity and approval of their friends. This result may be used to develop an instrument to measure the criteria on clothing selection of consumer.

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A Study on Women's Wear Manufacturing Industries (II) - Automation of the Facilities and Ratio of Impaired goods - (숙녀복(淑女服) 봉제업계(縫製業界) 실태(實態) 연구(硏究) (II) - 생산설비(生産設備) 자동화(自動化)와 생산제품(生産製品) 불량수준(不良水準) -)

  • Uh, Mi-Kyung;Sohn, Hee-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.46-54
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to understand women's wear manufacturing industries. First, the study was to investigate the present production systems and how much the automatic facility are by comparing them. This study enhanced more efficient, stable, and suitable work line. This intern will direct the way in which automatic facilities will be created. Second, through this study on the general character of the inspectors, the ratio of impaired goods, and the reasons for unsatisfactory goods, I intended to find out a way to decrease the impaired goods and to produce competitive and high quality goods. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. The result of the research on the automatic industrial facilities shows that the majority of the factories (77.4%) are 40% below the automatic facility rate. The reasons for this according to order are that was a deficit in money, no reason for expensive machines, and lack of the technique and the number of workers required to handle the machines. 2. At this time, the most required equipments are shown according to its importance; automatic sewing machine, automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine, and finishing & pressing machine. So in the women's wear manufacturing industries, they think that they need more automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine in the cutting field rather than high price automatic machine in the sewing field such as pattern former, pocket welting, automatic sleeve connecting machine and automatic label connecting machine. 3. The result of the research in the goods quality shows that the average impaired rate is 12.7% at the first inspection. In addition the average rate for complete impaired rate is 1.52%. The line system shows that it has a impaired rate that is double the rate of the pair system. Because of this, the industries plan to combine the line system and pair system to create an improved and suitable production system which can boost the quality and productivity of the goods. 4. The fabric is the main point of the impaired goods. The factors of the impaired goods in manufacturing are the lack of mental abilities of the worker, impaired fabrics and a lack of cooperation in the working system. Furthermore, there is a lack of technique for new material. 5. To prohibit impaired goods in manufacturing, there need to be a way to educate the workers and to enhance the workers' mind on the productive goods. Also there need to increase in the investments of automatic production machines. Finally there need to be a standardized working line. Therefore, there need to be an improvement on the management of the production of goods, the development of technique and an increase in the education for the workers, with this there will be a decrease in impaired goods, and an increase in better quality of goods to enforce the domestic apparel industries.

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The Characteristics and Medical Utilization of Migrant Workers (외국인 노동자의 특성과 의료이용 실태)

  • Ju, Sun Me
    • Korean Journal of Occupational Health Nursing
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.164-176
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    • 1998
  • This study deals with the current medical utilization for migrant workers and the characteristics of them. The purpose of this study is to provide the basic information to establish proper medical policy. For the study self-made questionnaire was used, which was answered by 453 migrant workers working in the area of manufacturing and non-technical work in 10 cities like Seoul, Inchon, Namyangju, Sungnam, Kwangju, Pyungchon, Kunpo, Kimpo, Masuk in Kyungki-do and Chunan in Chungchungnam-do. Besides, 303 medical records of those who had visited free medical check-up center were analyzed. The period of accumulating data is 6 months, from November 1st, 1996 to April 30th, 1997. The characteristics of migrant workers and current medical utilization are analyzed by percentage and the relation between characteristics and current medical utilization were analyzed using ${\chi}^2$-test, t-test, ANOVA. The finding of this study was as follows : 1) The number of nationality was 16. The first majority was Philippians as 32.0%. Among 16 nationalities Southeastern and Northern Asians were 48.9%, Southwestern Asian was 46.5%, the rest was 7.3%. Men were 81.0%, those who are aged from 26 to 30 were 39.0%, Graduatee from high school 92.7%, Christians 56.3%, unmarried 55.4% and salary from 600,000 Won to 800,000 Won 53.8% averaging monthly payment 669,810 Won. As for their residence, those who resided over 3 years were 31.9% and the illegal residence reached 77.4%. As for Korean language, those who speak in middle level were 5.6%. 2) As for kind of work and circumstances, manufacturing was 81.1%, 4 off-days per month 72.2% and 9-10 working hours per day 42.1%. As for accommodation, residence in fabric was 62.6% and one or two members as roommate 40.2%. 3) The characteristics of health behavior showed that 89.4% of migrant workers had 3 meals, 70.9% of them did not drink alcohol, 73.5% of them did not smoke. 4) As a characteristic of health status, 71.8% of them perceived of their health. 76.1% thought that they had no illness before coming Korea. Among them who recognized their illness, those who had problem in circulatory system was 35.3%, respiratory system ENT 19.1% and nervous system 19.1%.66.2% of those having illness had already had sickness when coming to Korea. 5) During last one month, 79.2% of them were known as ones having no illness. Among the sick, those who had problem in circulatory system was 31.6%, nervous system 23.7% and respiratory system 21.1%. 60.3% of the sick were not cured at that time. 6) Sorting the symptom of those who visited free medical check up, dental care was 24.2%, orthopedic 14.0% and digestive system 13.8%. Teethache was 34.4%, stomach problem 11.6%, upper respiratory inflammation 10.2% and back pain 5.9%. Averagely they visited free medical check up 1-2 times. According to symptom, epilepsy 25.5 times, heart and vascular disease 9 times, constipation 2.8%, neurosis 2.38 times and stomach problem 2.34 times. 7) The most frequently visited medical service by migrant workers was hospital. The most mentioned reason was good healing as 36.3%. The medical service satisfied migrant workers mostly was hospital as 64.3%. The reason of satisfaction was also good healing as 45.9%. 8) 77.2% of respondents did not spend money for medical check. Average monthly medical cost was 25,100 Won, 3.7% of income. Those who had no medical security was 73.4%. In their case, 67.7% got discount from hospital or support from working place and religious organization. 9) As for the difference of medical utilization according for the characteristics of migrant workers, legal workers and no-Korean speaker used hospital more frequently. 10) Those who were satisfied most of all with the service of hospital were female workers, hinduists and buddhists, legal workers or manufacture workers. 11) Christians, those who have 3 meals or recognize themselves as healthy ones mostly had no illness. As a result, the most of migrant workers in Korea are from Asia. They are good educated but are working in manufacturing and illegal. Their average income is under 700,000 Won which in not enough for medical cost. They have no medical security and medical fee is supported by religious organization or discounted. Considering these facts the medical policy by government is to be established.

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