• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.8
• /
• pp.1161-1169
• /
• 1999

This research was aimed to identify the artifact type and their characteristics of the textile related materials excavated from Koryo Dynasty tombs of Hyungok-ni Danyang. Microscopy solubility test energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy(EDS) and fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) fabric density test were used for the identification and when necessary standard samples were made in order to compare its characteristics with hose of the original artifact, the result indicated that the artifacts included both textile and paper. Artifacts from Burial 14 were comprised of textile fragments FT-IR and the solubility test conducted on the artifact indicated that the textiles were made with ramie woven with plain weave technique in a fairly loose fabric density. Rest of the artifacts were all comprised of paper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.4
• /
• pp.158-167
• /
• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.36 no.4
• /
• pp.236-243
• /
• 2020

In this study, an accelerated aging experiment for fabric and paper was conducted using two light emitting diode(LED) sources with different wavelength characteristics, and the discoloration under each lighting type was examined. Hanji(Korean traditional paper) and related textiles showed more discoloration under blue LEDs, while the blue wool standard showed more discoloration under white LEDs. This, indicated that the deterioration varied depending on the sample color. The the effect of the light source on artifact deterioration was primarily related to the total radiation flux(expressed in mill watts), rather than the total luminous flux(expressed in lumens). In addition, the discoloration of the investigated artifacts was dependent on the color rendering of the lighting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.47 no.6
• /
• pp.1177-1192
• /
• 2023

This study aims to expand the scope of use for relics by applying the patterns and characteristics of embroidered fabric pieces, such as gold foil, excavated from the Mireuksa Temple Site in Iksan for fashion products. The artifact was a ra decorated with flower and vine patterns, embroidery using gold and red thread, and the unique stitching of Baekje. The pattern was reconstructed, as the embroidery was not well-preserved. This study used two types of gold-foil techniques: laser-cut and stone-stamp gold foil. Considering practicality, the gloss, toughness, custom production possibility, and design implementation were emphasized. The form of the laser-cut gold foil could be transformed; however, a recognition problem with the machine increased the thickness of the stitching. It was used for half-finished goods and commercial casual fashion. The stone-stamp gold foil was finely implemented, but the design was difficult to change. It was used for half-finished silk fabric for making hanbok po and lattice-patterned silk skirts. Applying the developed gold foil to suitable clothing can further enhance the effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Radiology
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.865-872
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study was to analyze fabrics suitable for use as examination gowns to determine whether examination gowns affect imaging during anterior to posterior chest examinations(Chest AP) on a digital X-ray system. Examination gowns in use at five medical centers in Seoul were collected and included modal, tencel, cotton, and rayon fabrics. The selection of fabrics was based on studies that reported fabrics with good tactile, absorbent, stretchable, and wrinkle resistance. Phantoms of five hospital gowns and four fabrics, arranged in overlapping layers from one to eight, were created and examined on a digital X-ray system in both Chest AP examination. The images examined were subjected to a first-step profile analysis, a second-step signal intensity averaging analysis, and a third-step microscopic analysis. The results showed that all nine materials had an increasing impact on the image as the number of layers of fabric increased, with the modal fabric having the least impact on the image in the first, second, and third analyses. In conclusion, as the resolution of digital x-ray systems increases, the impact of examination clothing on the image will increase, and research to find suitable materials for examination clothing will continue to be necessary.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.52 no.2
• /
• pp.220-239
• /
• 2019

According to the National Currency (國幣) article in GyeongGukDaeJeon (經國大典), the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn (朝鮮通幣之印) was a seal that was imprinted on both ends of a piece of hemp fabric (布). It was used for the circulation of hemp fabric as a fabric currency (布幣). The issued fabric currency was used as a currency for trade or as pecuniary means to have one's crime exempted or replace one's labor duty. The ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn would be imprinted on a piece of hemp fabric (布) to collect one-twentieth of tax. The ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn (朝鮮通幣之印) was one of the historical currencies and seal materials used during the early Chosun dynasty. Its imprint was a means of collecting taxes; hence, it was one of the taxation research materials. Despite its value, however, there has been no active research undertaken on it. Thus, the investigator conducted comprehensive research on it based on related content found in JeonRokTongGo (典錄通考), Dae'JeonHu-Sok'Rok (大典後續錄), JeongHeonSwaeRok (貞軒?錄) and other geography books (地理志) as well as the materials mentioned by researchers in previous studies. The investigator demonstrated that the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn was established based on the concept of circulating Choson fabric notes (朝鮮布貨) with a seal on ChongOseungp'o (正五升布) in entreaty documents submitted in 1401 and that the fabric currency (布幣) with the imprint of the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn was used as a currency for trade, pecuniary or taxation means of having one's crime exempted, or replacing one's labor, and as a tool of revenue from ships. The use of ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn continued even after a ban on fabric currencies (布幣) in March 1516 due to a policy on the "use of Joehwa (paper notes)" in 1515. It was still used as an official seal on local official documents in 1598. During the reign of King Yeongjo (英祖), it was used to make a military service (軍布) hemp fabric. Some records of 1779 indicate that it was used as a means of taxation for international trade. It is estimated that approximately 330 ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn were in circulation based on records in JeongHeonSwaeRok (貞軒?錄). Although there was the imprint of ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn in An Inquiry on Choson Currency (朝鮮貨幣考) published in 1940, there had been no fabric currencies (布幣) with its imprint on them or genuine cases of the seal. It was recently found among the artifacts of Wongaksa Temple. The seal imprint was also found on historical manuscripts produced at the Jikjisa Temple in 1775. The investigator compared the seal imprints found on the historical manuscripts of the Jikjisa Temple, attached to TapJwaJongJeonGji (塔左從政志), and published in An Inquiry on Choson Currency with the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn housed at the Wongaksa Temple. It was found that these seal imprints were the same shape as the one at Wongaksa Temple. In addition, their overall form was the same as the one depicted in Daerokji (大麓誌) and LiJaeNanGo (?齋亂藁). These findings demonstrate that the ChoSonT'ongPaeJiIn at Wongaksa Temple was a seal made in the 15th century and is, therefore, an important artifact in the study of Choson's currency history, taxation, and seals. There is a need for future research examining its various aspects.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.113-128
• /
• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.5
• /
• pp.667-675
• /
• 2013

After analyzing excavated $17-18^{th}$ century silk fibers through a scanning electron microscopy, we discovered seven different kinds of fracture morphology. Using Morton & Hearle fiber fracture morphology, we classified the findings into four different categories. Type I is tensile failure resulting from brittle fracture, granular fracture, and ductile fracture. Type II is fatigue failure caused by tensile fatigue, flex fatigue, and axial split (fibrillation). Type III is bacterial deterioration discovered only in excavated artifacts. Type IV is a combination of the three above. Humid underground conditions and the infiltration of bacteria caused the fibers to swell and weaken its interfibrillar cohesion. Fractures occur when drying and processing an excavated artifact that is already in a fragile condition. Therefore, one must minimize damage through a prompt cleaning process and make sure that the least possible force is exerted on the fabric during any treatment for repair and exhibition.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.38 no.3
• /
• pp.243-253
• /
• 2022

Using non-destructive analytical methods, we identified the material characteristics of two gold fabric artifacts excavated from the Cheongsong Sim clan (Bugeum Wonsam, Jikgeum Chima), including the artifact condition, fiber type, surface contamination, and metallic threads. We found that the artifacts were buried and had turned brown; thus, we were unable to determine their original color. The fiber type was determined to be silk from cocoons, based on scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) analyses of Amide I, II, III, and IV peaks, and color reactions Further, the FT-IR and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analyses identified the white and black stains as natural resin hydrolyzed substances, such as lipids and proteins, that occurred as microbial decomposition due to body decay. Finally, the XRF analyses identified the thin gold layer of the metallic yarn as gold (Au). According to the FT-IR data and the color reaction to the metallic yarn medium, the adhesive component of the medium was a product of-Amides I, II, III, and 3000 cm^-1 within Amides A and B (an animal type), respectively. Thus, the medium was identified as Hanji (Korean paper), which is made from domestically produced Broussonetia kazinoki fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.6
• /
• pp.56-68
• /
• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.