• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.1039-1047
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the properties of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent handle. In order to perform this purpose, the mechanical properties, hand value (H.V.), total hand value (T.H.V.), total appearance value (T.A.V.) of acetate, cuprammonium rayon, cotton materials for velvet as the typical commercial Pile fabric were measured and analyzed by KES-F system. The important results obtained by this study are as follows. 1 For acetate pile, elogational deformation was easy and bending rigidity of weft was high and elastic recovery was excellent compared with the other materials. 2. Cuprammonium rayon velvet was shown that pile bending rigidity and hysterisis were low. Cotton velvet was shown that compressional energy was high and compressinal elasticity was exellent. 3. In the case that specimens were applied by men's winter suit program, H.V was shown that Koshi of acetate velvet was similar to that of cotton. Numeri of cuprammonium rayon velvet was higher than the others and Fukurami values for all of the three fabrics were similar. 4. But in case that specimens were applied by women's winter suit program Koshi of cuprammonium rayon velvet was lower. But Numeri of that was higher than the others and Fukurami for all of the three fabrics were similar and Sofutosa of cotton velvet was lower than the others. T.H.V. of the acetate velvet was the highest in men's winter suit program while cuprammonium rayon velvet was the highest in women's winter suit program T.A.V. of acetate velvet was highest.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.33-45
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• 2000

The handle were observed by objective and subjective method as the washing was repeated for 4 kinds(sample A, B, C, D) of materials which have different water vapor transmission, and the change of water vapor transmission each others. The results of factor analyses for 18 polar adjective words on subjective handle test yielded 4 factors, that were 'elastic property', 'surface property', 'thickness and weight property' and 'thermal and rigid property'. The surface properties were deteriorated remarkably as washing was repeated and significant difference were observed. Compared with the primary hand value for each materials, the statistical difference of samples was shown at Koshi and Fukurami measured by the KES-FB system. Koshi decreased for all the materials after repeated washing, and Fukurami had a tendency to increase for all the materials in proportion to repeated washing. Significant difference of total hand value wasn't shown in repeated washing number, but in fabric types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1032-1042
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to measure, compare, and investigate the physical properties of rayon/cotton blend fabrics treated with cellulase and cellulase & specific degeneration silicon and to present basic data which is in development a value-added fabric. The results are as follows. The condition for the treatment of cellulase was at 55$^{\circ}C$, pH 4 and the weight loss increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treated time increased. On treatment with cellulase, the crossectional view & longitudinal view of fiber noticed remarkable crack as weight loss increased and tensile strength and elongation decreased, and pilling was enhanced remarkably. KOSHI was increased, NUMERI and FUKURAMI were decreased as weight loss increased. In the basic characteristic value of clothing wearning, shape stability and drapability were decreased, but air content was improved. On treatment with cellulase & silicon, the degree of damage in the crossectional view & longitudinal view of the fiber reduced. Tensile strength, elongation, moisture regain improved. KOSHI and FUKURAMI were reduced, NUMERI was improved rather than when it was treated with cellulase. Therefore handle was improved. In the basic characteristic value of the clothing wearing, shape stability, air content, drapability were improved.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1141-1149
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• 1998

Tencel fabrics were treated with NaOH, mechanically prefibrillated, and hydrolyzed by cellulase. Softner was applied to improve hand of the treated Tencel fabrics after prefibrillation and cellulase treatment. Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics(KES-FB) was used to evaluate effects of NaOH pretreatment, prebifrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments on fabric hand of the treated fabrics. Primary hand values of women's medium thick fabrics such as KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, and SOFUTOSA, and total hand values were evaluation parameters. As the treatments of prefibrillation, cellulase, and softner progressed, values in bending and shearing properties decreased and softness and elasticity were imparted to the treated fabrics. Specifically, compressional linearity, compressional energy, and thickness of the treated fabrics increased by prefibrillation, providing bulkiness to the treated fabrics. Values indicating surface properties increased owing to fibrils formed by prefibrillation treatment, but removal of fibrils by cellulase treatment enhanced smoothness. As the fabrics were exposed to various treatments such as NaOH pretreatments, prefibrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and total hand values increased with the exception of KOSHI, Consequently, the treated fabrics became softer, smoother, and more elastic. Especially, the NaOH pretreatment provided superior SOFUTOSA to Tencel fabrics.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.51-61
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• 1998

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of polyester fabrics changed by alkaline hydrolysis. This study analyzed the relations between the change of mechanical property and the hand value according to the weight loss of polyester fabrics. The results are as follows; Objective hand by KES-FB system, revealed that for tensile properties, as the weight loss increased, WT, RT increased and LT decreased. For bending properties, as the weight loss increased, B and 2HB showed smaller values. For shear properties, as the weight loss increased, G, 2HG and 2HG5 decreased. For surface properties, as the weight loss increased, MIU increased, but MMD and SMD did not show any trend. For compression properties, LC, WC and RC did not show significant differences according to the degree of weight loss. In case of hand value, Koshi(stiffness), Hari(anti-drape stiffness), Kisimi(scrooping feeling) and Shinayakasa(flexibility with soft feeling) showed a meaningful results depending on the degree of weight loss. However, Shari(crispness) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) did not show meaningful result. Koshi, Hari and Shinayakasa are high correlation with tensile property, bendibg property shear properties, thickness and weight. Kisimi is high correlation with tensile property, bending property, thickness and weight. Shari, Fukurami and THV did not show any meaningful difference whth any mechanical properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.582-587
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• 2003

To examine the effect of heat treatment temperature in finishing process on PET/PBT Fabric, PET/PBT Fabrics were treated at different relaxing temp., pre-set temp., and final-set temp.. The dimensions such as thickness and density were measured, and the handles were evaluated by Kawabata system. In relaxing which was wet heat treatment, thickness and bulkiness were increased, and NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV also were increased but KOSHI was decreased with elevating temperature. With elevating pre-set temp., thickness and bulkiness were decreased, but KOSHI was increased. NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV were the best at 180$^{\circ}C$ pre-set treatment. In final-set which was dry heat treatment like pre-set, thickness, bulkiness, NUMERI, HUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV were decreased, but KOSHI value was increased with elevating temperature. Therefore the best heat treatment condition was 130$^{\circ}C$ relaxing, 180$^{\circ}C$ pre-set, and 160$^{\circ}C$ final-set. And the handle of PET/PBT Fabric was affected much more by relaxing temp. than pre-set temp. and final-set temp.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1998년도 가을 학술발표회논문집
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• pp.444-448
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• 1998

사람이 손끝으로 직물을 누르며 문지를 때 느끼는 감정을 객관적으로 표현하는 연구의 필요성은 계속 증대되고 있다. 일본의 가와바타 교수는 직물의 역학적/물리적 특성을 측정하여 Hand value로서 객관화 시켰다. 가와바타 시스템에서는 직물을 손으로 누를 때의 탄력성, 따뜻한 느낌이 동반된 두꺼움(Fullness It softness)을 'FUKURAMI'라는 감각표현용어를 사용하여 이 주관적인 느낌을 객관화 시켰다. (중략)

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.141-155
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• 2004

Chitosan, the natural biodegradable polymer derived from chitin by de- acetylation, has been widely applied to the textile finishing processes for excellent anti-microbial characteristic and handle improvement of fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of handle when cotton fabric is treated with chitosan-polyurethane mixed solution. The viscosity values of chitosan solutions were 8cps and 50cps, and the wet-pick-up% was maintained at 90%. In case of mixing with water soluble polyurethane, the mixture ratio of chitosan and polyurethane was settled on the solid content ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:2. Also the change of physical properties by neutralization in NaOH solution was studied. The results can be summarized up as follows : 1. Extensibility(EM) and tensile energy(WT) of cotton fabric treated with chitosan are decreased, but bending rigidity(B) is remarkably increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of EM and WT is weakened and the increase of B is weakened. The case of neutralization is similar to the case of polyurethane addition. 2. By treating fabric with chitosan, FUKURAMI(Fullness and softness) is decreased, but KOSHI(Stiffness), SHARI(Crispness), HARI(Anti-drape Stiff ness) are increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of FUKURAMI is diminished and the increase of KOSHI, SHARI, HARI are diminished. 3. As the viscosity of chitosan solution increased, the air permeability value increased. The addition of polyurethane decreased the air permeability.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.257-266
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• 1998

This study was conducted to examine the changes of the mechanical properties of the position in jean slacks during the wear, previously used for the wearing test, which were subjected to repeated tensile-shearing deformation using a simulated fatigue tester has been investigated and compared, by calculating both mechanical properties and hand value(HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and the by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows. 1. The fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties was the LT, 2H B, 2HBS, MMD, SMD, RC values increased, elasticity values of tensile, bending and shearing properties, such as B, G and compression properties LC, WC were reduced. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 2. The hand value and THV; except anterior knee from all part of KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI was decreased. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value was different on the position of clothing; on the position of hip, rate of B, G smaller than other parts and KOSHI was decreased, on the part of anterior thigh was FUKURAMI was increased, on the anterior knee RC, NUMERI, THV was increased, on the posterior knee was 2HB, 2HG, 2HGS showed increasedgreater than any other part and on the hem of back, MMD was increased, but NUMERI was decreased. 4. The changing process of mechanical properties in the simulation testing by the fatigue tester has similar tendency to that of the wearing tester. It is concluded that this testing method is useful to predict the fatigue phenomena of fabrics caused by wearing.