The main purpose of this study is to discribe the transfiguration process and the symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque(산대놀이) during the Choson Dynasty. Sandai masque as a popular play is a very important form in the history of the Korean theatre. Furthermore in order to analyze the mutual relationship and difference between in the early and later Chosen Dynasty, Narye has is stressed deeply a national amusement event. In the early years of Choson Dynasty, non-official culture such as outside of Seoul and Seoul were subject to the official culture of the Court. In the late years, actors become more and more libral, separating themselves from the systemical restriction. The main reason for this is the growth of capitals in private sectors as well as the growth in demand for entertainment among private citizens. On these backgrounds, the transfiguration process of Sandai masque have changed the treatrical costume. The treatrical costume carries symbolic meaning to the obserber. The value of symbol changes as the time passes, overtime thereby altering its meaning as well. The caracters and plots change inevitably over years but the basic theme remains. The symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque are mainly focused on three subjects: first, the entrance of a dragon and tiger originated in the exorcism for good harvest; second, color symbolism expressed in the confrontation between red and black; and third, associate characteristics of dress forms related to regoinal classification of the mask dance.
This study identifies 164 Korean medicine practitioners among the independence activists and describes the types and characteristics of their independence movements. Their occupations included apothecary pharmacist, herbalist, and medicine dealer. They originated from Gyeongbuk, Hamnam, Pyeongnam, and Gyeongnam, with a higher proportion of Hamnams compared to independence fighters. Their ages are concentrated in the 30s and 40s. Their movements are similar to those of independence heroes, in the order of domestic resistance, the March 1 Movement, and Manchurian resistance. The crimes are Security Law, Exorcism No. 7 of the 8th Reign of Daejeong, Public Order Maintenance Law, and attempted murder. In terms of sentences, the proportion of those sentenced to five years or more in prison is higher, and the proportion of those sentenced to less is lower. The above independence movements in Korean medicine practitioners are characterized by (1) the use of direct force, (2) long-term and planned struggle, (3) the provision of contact points and funding sources, (4) a nationalist line, and (5) low socialist-communist share.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.15
no.3
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pp.157-166
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2013
Features of the Occult Culture is preferred that powers, demons, magic, magical, unreal etc. Currently Occultism is getting a lot of attention to the public in the society, culture, arts and the play. Fashion in the period that includes all circumstances is a field. Thus, the current Occultism and modern fashion will also be related. Objective of the study is to figure out the form and meaning of Occultism in Contemporary Fashion. An example of the best of contemporary trends is the mass media, For this reason, Occultism symptoms range of case studies mess media(television programs and film). Research on contemporary fashion range was used 2000-2013 fashion collection extracted from the data. Represented in the mess media features of occultism is 'Witchcraft and Sorcery' and 'Death and Horror'. They are story of wizard exorcism and unnatural horror. In the 21st century, modern people are enjoying occultism, and occultism is the one of the entertainment. Expressed in contemporary fashion features of occultism is 'Super-human organism', that is out of the human body, ignoring body shape and type of transformed organism. Second distinction is 'Ghost', they are something like the dark and dismal, shape of ghosts and look pale. Third distinction is 'Neo-Macabre', it is the shape of the skeleton. Skeleton symbolizing the end of life, skeleton to express Occultism has emerged as the most representative motifs in the 21st century fashion. Occultism expressed in fashion is a gothic fantasy, because the fashion can be expressed. In addition, people in modern society wants to be against the norms and taboos. The trend Occult-culture is a symbol of the public's desires and needs.
In the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), the walls and chimneys of palaces, temples, and the houses of the upper-class show various characteristics of decorative design patterns. This study investigated ceramic bricks and roof tiles, which is one aspect of environmental design studies. This study aimed to provide a typology ot traditional Korean design of bricks and roof tiles used in walls and chimneys, and to show the design characteristics. This study collected 685 designs of bricks and roof tiles, and divided them into 18 categories and 5 types of design patterns based on object figures, architectural styles, materials, and decorative methods. In conclusion, there were differences and similarities among the design patterns. In general, the palaces mostly used red, gray, and black bricks that had more detailed designs presenting auspicious signs or exorcism. But, temples and the houses usually used (black) roof tiles horizontally configured with the edges overlapping to decorate as wall as to strengthen their structure.
The spiritual world of the ancient times has precious values which forms the origin of human thought. This study aims to reevaluate ancient people's particular views on man in their spiritual world reflected through gods' ornaments by studying the human race's fundamental spiritual world gradually disappearing due to science development from Egyptian gods' ornaments expressed symbolically in Ancient mythical components. Although evidently ornaments in Egypt served for decoration, the basic purpose was exorcism as amulets, a shamanistic purpose to be protected from mystical and hostile powers by carrying them on the vulnerable spots of the body. As this aspect indicates, the human race tried to solve their self-insoluble transcendental issues through the help of supernatural power, pursuing to lead their lives there within. As a result, Egyptian ornaments; First, the deity raised their value by deifying human-beings. Second, the nobility enhanced their dignity by having goddesses wear the same skirts as theirs. Thirds, all deities maintained their class society by wearing fpassiums, bracelets, and anklets. Fourth, the resurrection was symbolized through gods and goddesses in charge of the afterlife.
This Studies interpret Kim Ki-duk's film in terms of shamanistic world views. In this studies, the ritual properties of Kim Ki-duk's film were trying to reveal. To do this, Kim Ki-duk's entire 14 works were analysed. Specifically, shamanistic characters, their actions, themes, ways of storytelling, mis-en-scenes, and visual settings were focused on. The results show, fantastic and ritual properties were represented directly and the very archetypes of Korean cultural shamanistic symbols were embedded in his films. Shamanistic symbols and narratives in Kim Ki-duk's films were related to the main themes of harmony between suppressing men and suffered women. This symbols and narratives could be interpreted through the sacrifices of characters, exorcistic behaviors, expressions of death etc. In the long run, as visionary or anti-realistic author, Kim Ki-duk has been performing shamanistic ceremonies(in Korean "Gut") with his whole works. With these findings, processes from preparations to completions of Gut-Pan (Shamanistic ceremony) in Kim Ki-Duk's works were tried to reconstruct.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.37
no.5
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pp.691-703
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2013
The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.
The purpose of this study is to consider incense culture found in costume and life in forms of carrying and decoration. Here, incense for carrying and decoration is classified into two cases, using it as a costume accessory and life space. Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul, Hyangdae and Hyangseonchu were costume accessories. Hyangjumony was not only used for the royal palanguin, but also for bedroom. When Poetic Literature, and other ancient publications were reviewed in regard to incense for carrying and decoration, it was estimated that incense began to be carried for the first time before the late period of Shilla(9C). In addition, it was found that incense was not just a personal taste, but one of important gifts exchanged between states, envoys of different nations and between sovereign and subject and that incense was a necessary costume accessory for men. Types of incense for carrying and decoration used in this nation are classified into Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul and Hyangseonchu. Hyangjumony is a fabric pouch that contains incense. Hyangnorigae is Norigae whose main material is incense. Hyangjul is a string to which incense is hanged. Hyangseonchu is Seonchu whose main material is incense. Incense for carrying and decoration was based on five colors that symbolize cosmic order and harmony, of which red and purple were mostly used. Red strongly suggests expelling Yin with Yang, or exorcism. The color gives a strong impression, so it was often used to make a carried incense more decorating. Main materials of incense for carrying and decoration were gold, silver, precious stone and horsehair. They are different in characteristics, but were used appropriately for incense fragrance and decoration. Patterns mainly used for the incense had shapes of animal, plant, sipjangsaeng and letter. These were all auspicious patterns that symbolize human wishes and desires, especially individual and family happiness.
In Christopher Marlowe's Cambridge days in the 1580s, the British forward wits were engaged in the curious pursuit of magic and occult philosophy in order to discover the mystery of things. Magic, together with judiciary astronomy, astrology, mathematics, and logic, was one of the most practical disciplines. Marlowe, Shakespeare, and Jonson demonstrate their deep interest in magic and its language of spell and charms in the light of their analogical application to the alchemical theatre. As Shakespeare says that the poet, the lover, and the madman are of the same because they give forms to airy nothing, a magical illusion is, for the three playwrights, similar to the theatrical illusion in that both magic and theatre work in and by a language and both give us sportive pleasures through the deceptio visus. However, while Jonson is rather puritanically antagonistic to the illusive language of alchemy and magic, Marlowe and Shakespeare are attracted to the rapturous nature of the absolute language of magic. Doctor Faustus' indulgence in magic stands for the Marlovian aspiration for the absolute language which allows no discrepancy between thinking and willing, conceiving and actualizing. His uses of spells, charms, anagrams, and magic books are transformed and translated in the play into an alchemical theatre. Faustus is dependant on and bound by his books of magic, as is the actor on the stage. Faustus is the poet condemned from the beginning. Though he is mistakenly thinking that it is he himself that manipulates Mephostophilis the magical agent, it is otherwise. Faustus is a shadow or an actor in the Elizabethan language. He remains a farcical figure during the twenty-four years which are given to him for his sensual dalliance. Marlowe never forgets through his farcical clowning to satirize such Catholic rituals as exorcism and benediction for their illusive theatricalism. The sports of Faustus' playacting and play-directing rise at the last hour to the height of a tragedy. Ironically Marlowe the playwright succeeds as a tragedian at the point where Faustus fails as a magician.
This paper reviewed the aspects of using Seoul gut and Hwanghaedo gut, which are gangshingut(exorcism by possessed shamans), and Gyeonggidodanggut and Southern coast byeolshingut, which are seseupmugut(exorcism by hereditary shamans), and based on that, examined the universality of using beats of mudanggut. This study should have examined the use of beats in donghaeangut and honamgut and it was the limitation of this paper. While it examined the universality and mentioned several cases of donghaeangut, this paper will have a clearer point when it studies the use of beats in donghaeangut. Through the process, this study tried to present that though the groups and aspects of performance differ from region to region, the universal principle may be the same. The beats used in gut of different regions have clearly different systems. Depending on performers and ways of performance, different beats are used. As for the system of beats, the name of beats and composition has uniqueness but there are similarities when compared to gut of other regions. In this paper, this was called universality. It means that there are significant differences in the composition of shaman songs, ways of performance, and use of beats but the system of beats is the same. Different aspects of using beats depending on performers are also regional universality. In Seoul gut, the use of beats is different depending on whether a janggujaebi performs gut in the sitting position, singing shamanistic songs or a shaman performs gut in the standing position. Gyeonggidodanggut is representative when it comes to the use of beats being clearly distinguished depending on performers. Beats differ depending on whether the performer is Miji or Sani. Also it is common that through the use of beats they convey the significance of performing shaman songs. It is found in the gut of all areas to express the meaning of cheongshin and oshin and this is seen more conspicuously when expressing some beats are closely related to the status of spirits. In Seoul gut, as the name sangsanjangdan and byeolsangjangdan show, the name of spirits are used as the name of beats and gut of all regions express the significance of expelling spirits through the use of beats. It means that ways of performance differ depending on regions, but there is an awareness of spirits, the main agent of gut. Though seseupmugut has weaker awareness than gangshingut and there are not various factors of performance that show divine power, the use of beats reveal that there is awareness about spirits.
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