• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권6호
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• pp.1177-1192
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• 2023

This study aims to expand the scope of use for relics by applying the patterns and characteristics of embroidered fabric pieces, such as gold foil, excavated from the Mireuksa Temple Site in Iksan for fashion products. The artifact was a ra decorated with flower and vine patterns, embroidery using gold and red thread, and the unique stitching of Baekje. The pattern was reconstructed, as the embroidery was not well-preserved. This study used two types of gold-foil techniques: laser-cut and stone-stamp gold foil. Considering practicality, the gloss, toughness, custom production possibility, and design implementation were emphasized. The form of the laser-cut gold foil could be transformed; however, a recognition problem with the machine increased the thickness of the stitching. It was used for half-finished goods and commercial casual fashion. The stone-stamp gold foil was finely implemented, but the design was difficult to change. It was used for half-finished silk fabric for making hanbok po and lattice-patterned silk skirts. Applying the developed gold foil to suitable clothing can further enhance the effect.

• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.89-100
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• 1999

This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권7호
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• pp.1160-1167
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• 2006

The most ideal textile conservation is to block oxygen and light from historical textiles. However it is not possible because historical textiles should be examined, cleaned, restored, and exhibited to find out its historical value. Most of excavated costumes were severely stained and soiled. They are dark yellowish brown in color. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color of gray fabrics, bleaching would be required. Conservation treatment was carried out on the 8 historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim(1567-1596). Two of them do not hold the fabrics. They hold only cotton wool and a little piece of fabrics. Even though these costumes underwent the conservation treatment in 1979, they were stained and needed re-treatment. This time, they were dual-bleached using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride followed by wet cleaning to reduce the soils and stains. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. Through the analysis of the trace of fabric, carbonized fabric fragment, and fabrics remained in other garments, we concluded the missing fabrics to be ramie or cotton. It is different result from the primary report concluded to be silk.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.129-141
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• 2008

Jikgeum(woven with supplementary golden wefts) hyungbae(rank badge) of danryung(official uniform) excavated from Im Backryung'tomb($1498{\sim}1546$) of the Joseon dynasty($1392{\sim}1910$) at Goyang, Gyunggi-Do in 2007, was in a critical condition because of serious collapse of substrate in metal thread. For conservation of hyungbae, metal thread was examined by different scientific methods(Light Microscope, Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Rray Spectrometry(SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy(FT-IR)). Analytical data showed that metal thread was gilt membrane strip composed of gold leaves and proteinaceous substrate which was probably parchment. To protect collapse of substrate, 1% solution of Paraloid B-72 was infilterated into substrate for consolidation of substrate and it was adhered to warp of fabric in hyungbae, before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were restored, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.243-253
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 청송심씨묘 출토 금직물 유물 2점(부금 원삼, 직금 치마)에 대한 비파괴 분석방법을 이용하여 유물 상태, 섬유 재질, 표면 오구(汚垢), 금속사에 대한 재료적 특성을 파악하였다. 출토 당시 유물의 상태는 모두 갈변되어 본래의 색상을 확인할 수 없으며, 섬유재질은 SEM과 FT-IR의 Amide I, II, III, IV 피크와 정색 반응 결과들로 누에고치로부터 얻은 견 섬유임을 확인할 수 있었다. 표면 오염물인 흰색 오구와 검정색 오구는 FT-IR, XRF 분석결과 시신의 부패와 미생물 분해로 나타난 지방질, 단백질 등의 가수분해 물질임을 확인할 수 있었다. 금속사의 금박층을 XRF로 분석한 결과 금(Au)으로 확인되었으며, 금속사 배지에 대한 FT-IR, 정색 반응 결과 배지의 접착제 성분은 Amide I, II, III와 3000 cm^-1 전·후의 Amide A, B의 결과로 동물성 교(膠)로 확인되었고, 배지는 정색 반응 결과 국내에서 생산된 닥나무 인피 섬유인 한지로 확인할 수 있었다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

본 연구는 대전에서 출토된 조선시대 초중기의 여산송씨가 출토복식을 보존처리함에 있어 출토복식의 세척처리 현황을 조사하고 본 출토복식의 세척과정을 보고하여 앞으로 출토복식의 세척방안에 대한 자료로 제공하고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 여산송씨 출토복식은 15세기의 남자복식과 16세기중후반의 남녀복식을 비교할 수 있는 좋은 자료가 되고 있다. 출토유물은 모두 184점이 출토되었으며 면, 견, 마, 교직물 등 다양한 직물이 있었다. 여산송씨 출토복식의 세척은 직물의 상태와 오염을 분석한 후 진공흡입에 의한 고형오염을 충분히 제거하고 습식세척과 건식세척방법을 시행하였으며 1, 2차로 진행되었다. 습식세척의 경우 음이온계 계면활성제(LAS)와 비이온계 계면활성제(Triton X-100)를 사용하였고 건식세척의 경우 n-hexane과 n-decane(4:6) 혼합용제 및 석유계 드라이클리닝용제를 사용하였다. 1차 세척 후 빠지지 않은 얼룩이 있는 면직물이나 마직물의 경우 표백처리를 실시하였으며 견직물 중 상태가 좋은 것은 유기용제에 의한 건식세척을 재실시하였다.