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A Study on Soviet Constructive Fashion in 1920s (1920년대 소비에트 구성주의 패션에 관한 연구)

  • 조윤경;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.36
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 1998
  • The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

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A study on Yang Shi Tai Chi Chuan in Bartenieff Fundamentals Perspectives (바티니에프 기본원리를 통해 본 양식 태극권에 관한 연구)

  • Wang, Zhiquan
    • Trans-
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    • v.8
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    • pp.95-127
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    • 2020
  • This research is based on using Bartenieff Fundamentals to analyze the fundamentals of Tai Chi Chuan's movements in order to develop the methods of relaxation from Tai Chi Chuan's principle movement movements It also shows that the two techniques have commonalities in many ways. First of all, taking a philosophical approach on the body movements of Tai Chi Chuan and Bartenieff, for both methods the ultimate goal is the integration of mind and body. In other words, there is a thread of connection between the East's body and mind monism and the west's Body Awareness. Secondly, looking at it from a Breath Support standpoint as used in the Bartenieff method, the two methods both use the breathing to naturally move the body and relax the body. In Tai Chi Chuan the Breath is the basis of life and the strength of the Body. So the breathing of Tai Chi chuan is what makes body and mind communicate, harmonize and integrate. In other words, Breathing in Tai Chi is realized through mental fusion and affects the movements. This is the same as the Breath Support of Bartenieff. It is said that in every aspect the Breath Support of Bartenieff influences the movement and changes both the inner and outer form of the body. Thirdly, looking at the Core Support used in the Bartenieff method, both methods emphasize core. At the same time of moving and being conscious of one's core, the usage of muscles can be deeper rather than superficial and this enables strong and flexible movement. In Tai Chi Chuan abdominal muscles used when one coughs are consciously engaged through abdominal breathing and so strength is collected in the core. When one exercises like that the core becomes more stable and breathing becomes more smooth. Fourthly, analyzing the Rotary Factor used in the Bartenieff Fundamentals, they both use rotary movement to reach the goal of physical relaxation. The rotation factor of Bartenieff allows movement to be easier and more free because of the characteristic of joint exercise where the center axis moved in three dimensions, this is the same in Tai Chi chuan. According to Tai Chi chuan's circle and Spiral Movements, it can achieve the relaxation through switching into a seamless flow and access space as much as possible. Finally, when looking at Developmental Patterning through Bonnie Bainbridge Cohen's Body-Mind Centering Work theory, presented from Bartenieff developmental model are similar with the developmental process of Tai Chi chuan Breath, Core-Distal Connectivity/Navel Radiation, Head-Tail Connectivity/Spinal Movement, Upper-Lower Connectivity/Homologous, Body-Half Connectivity/Homo-Lateral Connectivity, Cross-Lateral Connectivity/Contra-Lateral Connectivity. They are all similar. In other words, in Tai Chi Chuan energy is gathered in the core through breathing, upper and lower body are connected through the spine, not only homo-laterally but also cross-laterally. Through this study the expression of the dance movements can be more natural. Additionally based on the Body Awareness balance usage of the central axis, joints and body can develop the relax technique.

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Estimation of Domestic Greenhouse Gas Emission of Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Sector adapting 2006 IPCC GL Tier 2b Method (국내 냉동 및 냉방부문 온실가스 배출량 산정 - 2006 IPCC GL Tier 2b 적용 -)

  • Shin, Myung-Hwan;Lyu, Young-Sook;Seo, Kyoung-Ae;Lee, Sue-Been;Lim, Cheolsoo;Lee, Sukjo
    • Journal of Climate Change Research
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.117-128
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    • 2012
  • The Government of South Korea has continued its effort to fixate virtuous circle of economic growth and climate change response to cope with international demands and pressure to commitment for greenhouse gas reduction effectively. Nationally, Korean Government has established "Enforcement of the Framework Act on Low carbon, Green Growth"(2010. 4. 13) to implement national mid-term GHG mitigation goal(30% reduction by 2020 compare to BAU), which established the foundation for phased GHG mitigation by setting up the sectoral and industrial goal, adopting GHG and Energy Target Management System. Also, follow-up measures are taken such as planning and control of mid-term and short-term mitigation target by detailed analysis of potential mitigation of sector and industry, building up the infrastructure for periodic and systematic analysis of target management. Likewise, it is required to establish more accurate, reliable and detailed sectoral GHG inventory for successfully establishment and implement the frame act. In comparison to the $CO_2$ emission, Especially fluorinated greenhouse gases (HFCs, PFCs, $SF_6$) are lacking research to build the greenhouse gas inventories to identify emissions sources and collection of the applicable collection activities data. In this study, with the refrigeration and air conditioning sector being used to fluorine refrigerant(HFCs) as the center, greenhouse gas emission estimation methodology for evaluating the feasibility of using this methodology look over and mobile air conditioning, fixed air conditioning, household refrigeration equipment, commercial refrigeration equipment for the greenhouse gas emissions were calculated. First look at in terms of methodology, refrigeration and air conditioning sector GHG emissions in developing country-specific emission factors and activity data of the industrial sector the construction of the DB is not enough, it's 2006 IPCC Guidelines Tier 2a (emission factor approach) rather than the Tier 2b (mass balance approach) deems appropriate, and each detail by process, sectoral activity data more accurate, if DB is built Tier 2a (emission factor approach) can be applied will also be judged. Refrigeration and air conditioning sector in 2009 due to the use of refrigerant greenhouse gas emissions ($CO_2eq.$) assessment results, portable air conditioner 1,974,646 ton to year, fixed-mount air conditioner 1,011,754 ton to year, household refrigeration unit 4,396 ton to year, commercial refrigeration equipment 1,263 ton to year was estimated to total 2,992,037 tons.