• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.4
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• pp.105-121
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• 2006

The term 'modern', in broader sense, refers to the concepts like modernity, modernization, modernism and the like, which came from Westernization impling the recognition of indigenous culture as being inferior to Western culture by comparison along with the expanded influences of the Empire of Japan. These concepts, however, rather than evolving from Western standards, came into being as a form of civilization led by Japan which had already tasted the fruits of modernization by 1920s. Since 1920s, the policy of, so-called, reconstructing Asian countries by Japan came to create eastern way of modernism, as a new East Asian trend mainly revealed in China which was against colonization after Japan's invasion and conquest of Manchuria. Therefore, Eastern' modern' unlike Western one could be understood in the widespread terminology, 'Modern(摩登)' in Shanghai, reflecting consciousness like 'Fashion' or 'Trend' in female images on a variety of visual media. By 1930s it was the most notable that 'modern' was accepted as something similar with 'Fashion', or 'Trend' in sociocultural contexts. These atmosphere had led commercial arts to enable to communicate with the public in a great deal of supports and success in Shanghai which was widely regarded as the citadel for the inflow of Western culture, among which transformations in female images were remarkable as a representative form of culture. It is also remarkable that 'historical modernity' transforming from the feudal age to modern society was considered a synchronic modernity, and nationalism was regarded as a sort of being modern, while involved in the newly-changed female images as a fashion mode. Changes in fashion including hair style in Shanghai by 1930s, as a way of expressions showing what was modern through commercial artistic productions, were easily noticed in visual media as an outlet of modern women's inner desire revealing their pursuit for new mode of life in metropolitan cities. As a characteristic of the time creating a new code of visual female images, it is notable that there existed another form of 'modern' satisfying socio-cultural needs of the general public seeking for being 'modern'.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.723-730
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to speculate on the history and the meaning of so-called "princess fashion" based on the feminist's viewpoint. While many designers in Korean fashion world have fostered the trend of princess fashion, relatively little insight has been developed regarding its socio-cultural meanings. For this problem, the researcher traced the historical background and the development of the princess fashion in both the western and the Korean fashion world. As a case of the princess fashion study, Andre Kim(a renowned Korean designer)'s collection was selected and analyzed since he has often been a central figure for the princess fashion trends in Korea. Here the operational definition of the princess fashion is the lavish dresses designed based on the western court dress styles. As a result, the researcher found that the princess fashion was originated from the eighteenth century in France. In the nineteenth century, male designers took over the role to make extravagant dresses such as empire and crinoline dresses which became the prototypes for the princess fashion. In Korea, the western court dress style was introduced at the end of the nineteenth century and it became a uniform of prostitutes during the Korean War. By analyzing Andre Kim's collection, it is found that his romantic dresses imitated the nineteenth century court dresses. Therefore, from the feminist's viewpoint, his princess fashion is a mere reproduction of anachronistic styles reflecting inferior and passive images of women. The researcher draws a conclusion that today's fashion should transcend the princess fashion that signifies the female's submissive-masochistic roles operated by the male's sexual expectation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.392-402
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• 2012

The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.15-34
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• 2007

This study was designed to collect a precise information concerning to the preference and evaluations after usage of pregnant Korean woman for the maternity wear bysurvey and wear tests. Through the survey, 212 respondents were asked to answer what type of maternity wear they prefer and what requirements for maternity wear design are important. According to the results of survey, the mostly preferred maternity wear items were pants and one-piece dress. Korean customers for maternity wear usually pay more for the one-piece dress than other items and they also usually put on medium price pants and low-price blouse. Concerning to the purchase criteria, it may be said that design and movability, fit factors are the buying decision criteria of great weight for Korean pregnant women. Special function most desired was thermal insulation, followed by buffer action, electromagnetic shield and quickly water-absorbent and dry property. Preferred maternity wear design details were flat collar, slightly fitted waist and empire style, gather skirt, rubber band waist. Wear test was performed for two kinds of blouse (BL) and one-piece dress (OP), and threekinds of pants (PT), which have different design details respectively. According to the wear test for ready-to-wear maternity garments, the garment which considers well the characteristics of Korean pregnant women body shape earned much higher score no matter of brands or prices. Generally, high-priced national brands received an excellent evaluation in design aspect, but not satisfied with comfort to move.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.34
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• pp.743-769
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• 1974

Au debut I'habit Iiturgique ne differait de I'habit de fete du simple citoyen que par sa richesse. C'est seulement quand, dans la vie courante, on adopta la robe courte que le vetememt liturgique commenca a se distinguer, meme par la forme, du costume civil. Les ornements liturgiques, en effet, ne sont qu'une forme stylisee de l'habit de fete de la fin de l'Empire Romain (du IIIeme au Veme siecle). Pour une ceremonie religieuse on se presente bien habille. Le meme sentiment de respect des choses sacrees a amene deja, vers la fin de l'antiquite chretienne, a donner au pretre un vetememt liturgique special. Pour celebrer la messe, le pretre revet par-dessus sa soutane un costume special, compose de l'amict, de l'aube, du cordon, du manipule, de l'etole et de la chasuble. Aux messes solennelles, les eveques ajoutent a ces ornements des bas et sandales, des gants, la tunique et la dalmatique avee la mitre ; en certain cas, les archeveques y joingnent le pallium. Aux messes solennelles, le diacre porte sur ; l'aube le manipule et la tunique. De ces pieces du costume liturgique, on dira brievement, apres leur emploi et leur forme actel, l'origine et l'histoire, mais seulement apres avoir marque les lignes generales parition et des transformations du costume liturgique dans son ensemble. L'evolution du costume liturgique a partir du XIIIeme siecle peut se resumer en quelques mots en raison souvent de la lourdeur des riches etoffes (velours et brocarts) et de l'importance donne a la decoration, toujours par rechereche d'une plus grande commodite on a abandonne lentement d'abord, puis rapidement adapte a partir du XVI eme siecle, les formes amples pour des formes courtes et etriquees. Il faut faire quelques exceptions qui marquent l'influence des gouts decoratifs de gouts epoque : La periode de 1700 a 1850 marque la complete decadence du costum liturgique. On a depuis essaye de lui rendre sa beaute et aussi sa signification symbolique, par un retour aux etoffes et a la decoration de la deuxieme partie du moyen age. Souhations que, sous la direction des liturgistes, en respectant l'essentiel de la liturgie aujourd'hui, avec le concours d'artistes epris du sens liturgique et des connaisseurs des tradtions et de toutes les ressources actuelles on trouve des costumes liturgiques adaptes a notre temps dans un style plus simple et correspondant au besoins actuels.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.52
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• pp.5-59
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• 2014

This paper investigates the development and aesthetics of Korean political theatre from its quickening period 1920s to democratization era 1990s. Political theatre before 90s developed an antithesis resistant movement toward Korean modern history that had been scattered with suppressing political circumstances such as colonial era and dictatorial government, the movement has powerful activity and social influences. Just like the 20 century political theatre had been quickened under the influence of Marxism at Russia and Germany in 1920s, Korea's political theatre began in socialism theatre movement form around the same time. Proletarian theatre groups had been founded in Japan and Korea, and developed into practical movement with organized connection. However, the political theatre movement in Japanese colonial era was an empty vessel makes great sound but not much accomplishments. Most performance had been canceled or disapproved by suppression or censorship of the Japanese Empire. The political theatre in liberation era was the left drama inherited from Proletarian theatre of the colonial era. Korean Theatre alliance took lead the theatrical world unfold activities based on theatre popularization theory such as 'culture activists' taking a jump up the line and 'independent theatre' peeping into production spot as well as the important event, Independence Movement Day Memorial tournament theatre. Since 1947, US army military government in Korea strongly oppressed the left performances to stop and theatrical movement was ended due to many left theatrical people defection to North Korea. The political theatre in 1960s to 70s the Park regime, developed in dramatically different ways according to orthodox group and group out of power. The political theatre of institutional system handled judgment on sterile people and had indirect political theatre from that took history material and allegory technique because of censorship. In political theatre out of institution, it started outdoor theatre that has modernized traditional performance style and established deep relationship with labor spot and culture movement organizations. Madangguek(Outdoor theatre) is 'Attentive political theatre', satirizing and offending the political and social inconsistencies such as the dictatorial government's oppression and unbalanced distribution, alienation of general people, and foreign powers' pillage sharply as well as laughing at the Establishment with negative characters. The political theatre in 1980s is divided into two categories; political theatre of institutional system and Madangguek. Institutional Political theatre mainly performed in Korea Theatre Festival and the theatre group 'Yeonwoo-Moudae' led political theatre as private theatre company. Madangguek developed into an outdoor theatrical for indoor theatre capturing postcolonial historical view. Yeonwoo-Moudae theatre company produced representative political plays at 80s such as The chronicles of Han's, Birds fly away too, and so on by combining freewheeling play spirit of Madangguek and epic theatre. Political theatre was all the rage since the age of democratization started in 1987 and political materials has been freed from ban. However, political theatre was slowly declined as real socialism was crumbling and postmodernism is becoming the spirit of the times. After 90s, there are no more plays of ideology and propaganda that aim at politicization of theatre. As the age rapidly entered into the age of deideology, political theatre discourse also changed greatly. The concept 'the political' became influential as a new political possibility that stands up to neoliberalism system in the evasion of politics. Rather than reenact political issues, it experiments new political theatre that involves something political by deconstructing and reassigning audience's political sense with provocative forms, staging others and drawing discussion about it.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.25
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• pp.135-181
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• 2012

The celebration day of national foundation(開國紀元節) is to celebrate the foundation of Joseon by Taejo Lee Seong Gye. It is also shortly called as the celebration day. The events celebrating this were performed either on a large or small scale by the court or the people from 1895 right before 1910, the Korea-Japan Annexation. As you can see from the period of its performance, the celebration day of national foundation was not one of the Joseon's traditional court events, but it was one of the national holidays(慶節) institutionalized newly after the port opening (1876). In Korea, too, they strived to concentrate on modernization as exchanging with all different countries in the world after the port opening. Also, they considered how to concretize all different celebration events for national holidays characterized by the modern days of celebration. As a result, additionally or partly from the traditional court events, the events to celebrate national holidays appeared one after another from 1895. And this article examined the celebration day of national foundation, one of the national holidays referred to as modern-style days of celebration. The event to celebrate this can be seen from Geongbok-gung(景福宮) on the day of July 16th, 1895. And the Independence Association(獨立協會) also held the event for the celebration day of national foundation. The event performed for the celebration day of national foundation shows very distinct aspects on the ground to maintain the congratulatory ways partly. In particular, the ritual for the celebration day of national foundation held by the Independence Association induced modernized ways of celebration such as the congratulatory address and speech, and it also included new elements like the harmony of various music including court music(宮中音樂) or Chang-ga(唱 歌).

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.32
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• pp.29-50
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• 2008

This thesis is an introduction and critique of the recently released 'Wongyo-Jinjeok(원교진적)'. 'Wongyo-Jinjeok' is the critique of Seokjeong Jeong-Jik Lee (석정 이정직, 1841-1910), a practical scientist and writer during the last years of the Korean Empire, on the calligraphy of Wongyo(원교) Gwang-Sa Lee (이광사, 1705-1777). Even though whether or not Seokjeong follows the flow of Donggukjinche(동국진체) is to be determined by the specialists in this field, this thesis is based on the view that Seokjeong was influenced by Donggukjinche. The academic value of 'Wongyo-Jinjeok' is Seokjeong's preface and epilogue which critiques Wongyo's writing. 'Wongyo-Jinjeok'is a collection of calligraphic specimens from the 18 pieces of Chinese poetry Wongyo had written before and after June 1756 which was the year after he was banished to Booryung. Seokjeong critiqued the writing of Wongyo from the perspective of calligraphic history in the preface and epilogue of 'Wongyo-Jinjeok'. Seokjeong had been positive about Wongyo's taking after the pre-Wangheejee calligraphic style. But at the same time, Seokjeong thought that Wongyo's ability to create was limited by the public morals of that time. Such thought of Seokjeong can be interpreted as an evaluation of Wongyo's calligraphy as having been externally stern but failing to transcend the realm of mastery to the realm of creation.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Library and Information Science
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• v.56 no.3
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• pp.213-239
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• 2022

This study attempted to organize the transition process of Royal Library (Gyujanggak) in chronological order, analyze the flow and find diachronic meaning during Gojong period, the most confused time at home and abroad prior to modernization. For this, first, the total status quo of King Gojong's library and book storage which played role of Royal Library and a personal library in Gojong period was investigated. Second, based on the current status of the investigation, the transition process from the Royal library in the early days of King Gojong to the Imperial library during the Korean Empire and its meaning were considered with the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, Seungjeongwon diary, various catalogs and historical records. Third, the changes of space-time and aspect of Royal library through the palace of Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, and Gyeongungung were examined to draw a sociopolitical meaning by schematizing each palace. As a result, first, King Gojong conjugated Kyujanggak as a device to strengthen the royal authority and accommodate Western culture in the process of modernization. Second, the crucial spaces containing the political orientation of King Gojong, such as the present king's portrait storage place, library(book storage), and office, formed a separate hall across Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Gyeongungung, and gradually changed into a Western architectural style.