• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.701-715
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• 2016

This research compared 3 types of jacket pattern design methods for men's wear (age range 25-35) in textbooks. We are to develop research pattern with problem solving based on an analysis of three jacket patterns. The comparative analysis revealed that loose-silhouette slopers A and B scored high in functional evaluation and low in appearance evaluation. However, the tight-silhouette slim-line sloper C received high points in appearance evaluation, but low scores in functional evaluation. All three slopers were evaluated low in the back appearance. The design characteristics of the development jacket sloper were: front width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+0.8cm; side width, 1/10 chest+5.5cm; back width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+1.5cm; armscye depth, 1/8 chest+11cm; waist back length, 1/2 jacket length+5cm; and hip length, 1/2 (jacket length-waist length)+1cm. The proportions against jacket length were applied to waist length, hip length, and the position of chest/waist pockets. In addition, the back part with low appearance estimation was adjusted as comfortable with the back curve line. Appearance evaluation and 3D clothes modeling system (CLO) showed an overall improvement in the developed jacket sloper when compared to the original jacket slopers.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.410-421
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• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.