• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.195-218
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• 2000

This study investigates the characteristics of European knitted works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) the origin and development of knitting. 2) the characteristics of knitting industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns and cultures. 4) 7he symbolic meaning of the designs in the knitted works and theire functions. This research is barred on the survey of the relevant literature and photographs. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1) The introduction of knitted works was closely connected with the climatic and socio-economic conditions of the places of the origin. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. 2) In ancient times, abstract and geometric patterns have developed in Europe under the influence of Arabian knitted work. Middle Ages saw the flourishing of Arabian knitted works representing the authority of the church. In early modern times, the knitted work assumed the wealth of the royal families and the nobles. But afterward it was gradually Popularized among the middle classes. Knitting was then regarded as one of the women's major cultural activities. However, recently in the interwar periods. the knitting industry did not flourish and the knitted works came to serve merely as comfort goods by political urge. Knitted works were introduced in Korea around 1870 (the 7th or 8th year of king Kojong era) by Catholic missionaries and they started to be made by machine in 1917. 3) As for the propagation of the knitted work into Europe, there are three routes estimated. The traditional knitting patterns of local areas and their characteristics are summed up as follows : (1) England Guernseys are thick dark blue wool, whereas Jerseys are thinner and of various colors. The knitted shawls of Shetland are world-famous for their fine, lace-like texture that they can be through a wedding-ring. The knitted work of Fair Isle shows several distinctive features, such as the use of no more than two colors, patterns with diagonal lines. symmetry within the patterns, the prominent OXO patterns, and horizontal bands of patterning. The representative knitted work of Aran is Aran sweater made for fishermen to developed from guernseys of Scotland. (2) Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. (3) Baltic area : The Latvian and Lithuania stockings have very ornate patterns. Many of the Estonian knit stockings and mittens share designs. Komi was well-known for its symmetric diamond pattern. Komi patterns include colored stripes, borders of pattern and all-over designs of complex diagonals. (4) Balkan area : In Yugoslavia, the patterns of roses, leaves and flowers were used for stockings, gloves and leggings. Greek knitting resembled southern Russian knitting, which utilized light colored patterns with dark colors for a background. Turkish patterns are symmetric vertically or horizontally. 4) The traditional knitting patterns net only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns also represented Power or authenticity Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.68-81
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• 2014

This study was conducted to identify the spacialty, to illuminate the existence and values of Myeongwoldae(明月臺) and Forest Myeongwol, and to suggest the sustainable usage, preservation and management plans with the purpose of ecological and cultural landscaping characteristic and value identification. The result of the study is as follows. Castle Myeongwol and Port Myeongwol shows the status of Hallim-eup Myeongwol District which is the administrative center of western Jeju as well as is the fortress. Building Wolgyejeongsa and School Woohakdang, the head temple of education and culture, located in Myeongwol District represents the spaciality of Myeonwol-ri which was the center of education. Stand Myeongwol is one of the most representative Confucian cultural landscapes in Jeju Island and the field of communion with nature where scholars enjoy poetries, nature, changgi(Korean chess), and go in the Joseon Dynasty period. It was found that the current relics of Myeongwoldae was recovered through the maintenance project conducted by Youth Group Myeongwol composed with Hongjong-si(洪鍾時) as the center during the Japanese colonial era in 1931. It seems that the stonework of Myeongwoldae composed of three levels in the order of square, octagon, and circle based on the heaven-man unity theory of Confucianism and the octagon in the middle is the messenger of Cheonwonjibang(天圓地方), in other words, between the square-shaped earth and the circle-shaped sky. It is assumed that both Grand Bridge Myeongwol and Bridge Myeongwol were constructed as arched bridges in early days. Bridge Myeongwol is the only arched bridge remaining in Jeju Island now, which has the modern cultural heritage value. In Forest Myeongwol, 97 taxa of plants were confirmed and in accordance with 'Taxonomic Group and Class Criteria of Floristic Specific Plants', eight taxa were found; Arachniodes aristata of FD IV and Ilex cornuta, Piper kadsura, Litsea japonica, Melia azedarach, Xylosma congestum, Richosanthes kirilowii var. japonica, Dichondra repens, Viburnum odoratissimum var. awabuki of FD III. Otherwise, 14 taxa of naturalized plants including Apium leptophylihum which is imported to Jeju Island only were confirmed. In Forest Myeongwol, 77 trees including 41 Celtis sinensis, 30 Aphananthe aspera, two Wylosma congestum, a Pinus densiflora, a Camellia japonica, a Melia azedarach, and an Ilex cornuta form a colony. Based on the researched data, the preservation and plans of Myeongwoldae and Forest Myeongwol is suggested as follows. Myeongwoldae, Bridge Myeongwol, and Forest Myeongwol should be managed as one integrated division. Bridge Myeongwol, an arched bridge which is hard to be found in Jeju Island is a high-standard stonework requiring long-term preservation plans. Otherwise, Grand Bridge Myeongwol that is exposed to accident risks because of deterioration and needs safety diagnosis requires measures according to the result of precise safety diagnosis. It is desirable to restore it to a two-sluice arched bridge as its initial shape and to preserve and use it as a representative local landmark with Stand Myeongwol. In addition, considering the topophsis based on the analysis result, the current name of Jeju Special Self-Governing Province Monument No. 19 'Myoengwol Hackberry Colony' should change to 'Myeongwol Hackberry-Muku Tree Colony'. In addition, the serial number system which is composed without distinction of hackberry and muku tree should be improved and the regular monitoring of big and old trees, specific plants, and naturalized species is required.