• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.25-37
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• 2005

This is a study on the origin of fashion imaging. First of all, 1 looked into the history of French fashion printmaking from late 16th century to early 19th century. Then studied the changes in the characteristics of context and form over the different periods and summarized each concept. At the same time, I looked into the process of fashion magazine evolving from fashion printmaking. In order to find out how fashion printmaking dealt with the characteristics of fashion media, 1 researched the commercial environment of fashion printmaking and reorganized the methodology of its media's role. Such analysis and results helped to reach a definition on how to regulate fashion printmaking. Fashion imaging was sparked by a small curiosity. As people began to be rage over new things, it came to introduce the fashion leaders of the public combined with the attributes of trend. At times when changes were so big that they were unpredictable, it itself became a fashion leader. Then a fashion creator emerges and it's function changes to that of a communication media. Moreover, the regular issuance of fashion printmaking implemented the concept of trend cycle and fashion imaging completely fulfilled the conditions of a communication media. The massive increase in the production of fashion printmaking and magazine contributed to the spread of fashion and the diffusion of printmaking lead to mutual complementation and synergy necessitated by fashion. Thus, the democratization of fashion and the commercialization of printmaking art occurred at the same time.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the transitional aspects of the power shoulders with a comparative analysis of the patterns observed from the late 20th century to the present. The method of study was through review of papers as well as phenomenological approaches. Books, domestic and international journals, and dissertations were studied as part of the paper review. Phenomenological study was performed by analyzing the pictures from late 20th to present; and categorized by 10 year time span i. e., 1980-1990, and 2002-2012. Hundred representative fashion photos were selected, respectively. As a result, the power shoulder found in late 20 centuries was largely limited to horizontal and diagonal shape, addressed mainly to the jackets; while they were straight, and wide shouldered, with emphasis on masculine style. On the other hand, in early 21 century, the power shoulder was applied in various forms of straight, diagonal, circular and ornamental with objects, not only to the jackets, but also to feminine styles such as one-piece dress, vest, and blouse. This finding may be attributed to the fact that the modern people desire newer trends and women tend to show off their ability in transcending those of men. The findings of analysis of the transitional aspects of power shoulder in this thesis might contribute as basic resources for anticipating the trends that might be revived in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권8호
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• pp.1364-1377
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• 2010

Although the human body is a biological subject with definite and distinctive physical features, its actualization and perception differs among societies. The aesthetics of the human body are based on diverse cultural perceptions that must be considered prior to design development. This study establishes the foundations of newly adopted concepts of beauty that are presumed to have been established in the first half of the twentieth century that continue to affect our mindset even now. The research includes human figures in the articles of women's magazines and cosmetic advertisements in the early $20^{th}$ century. The results are as follows: First, the change of perception in the human body: Instead of being a subject of preservation, the body has become a subject of sculpture with emphasis on health in the 1920's and on beauty in the 1930's. The recognition of the importance of the body has created intensive attention on physical training and an increased sense of hygiene. The body exposed to the public perceives itself through the eyes of others that alter one's own perception of oneself as well as become a target of evaluation. There is an additional emphasis on the exotic eroticism of a passive subordinate. Western culture became the standard for modernization along with the dissociation of traditional standards and values. Through the effect of education and western thinking, the awareness of women's rights and self-appreciation was developed. Second, ideal beauty can be summarized as follows: Unprocessed natural beauty was extolled as ideal in the 1920's, but the 1930's, it highlighted big eyes and an aquiline nose that are the characteristics of western women. Taking care of one's appearance was recognized as an important value for every social class. Cosmetics and skin care treatments promised soft and white skin. In contrast to western cosmetics, dark and shiny hair was highly favored. Exercising and traveling, differing seasonal and regional skin treatments were also widely accepted. In its initial stages, the research had originally assumed that the beginning of the twentieth century would be a time in which traditional concepts of beauty and new, westernized aesthetics coexisted. However, as the research progressed, it was clear that the idea of beauty had already adopted occidental ideals by that time. Thus, it seems necessary to continue the study on the shifting paradigms of beauty that must have occurred in the nineteenth and late twentieth century.

• 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국신재생에너지학회 2010년도 추계학술대회 초록집
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• pp.59.2-59.2
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• 2010

Throughout history, daylight has been a primary source of lighting in buildings, supplemented originally with burned fuels and more recently with electrical energy. Before daylight was supplemented or replaced with electric light in the late 19th-century, consideration of good daylight strategies was essential. As we entered the mid-20th-century, electric light supplanted daylight in buildings in many cases. Fortunately, during the last quarter of the 20th-century and early years of this century, architects and designers have recognized the importance and value of introducing natural light into buildings. There are many simple strategies that can enhance daylighting and reduce the need for electric lights. Good quality daylight is always welcome, but remember that the electric lights must be dimmed or shut off in order for daylighting to save energy. We designed and built mirror systems and vertical daylighting devices to improve daylight condition of office buildings in bad condition because urban density is getting higher. This case study aims to analysis the principles and characteristics of mirror systems and vertical daylighting devices and selected the method that can improve constructability. The results of this study are going to use the back data to set-up the design standards. Hereafter we're going to progress the performance test and product the design manual to improve applicability of daylighting systems at design phase.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.594-604
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• 2000

This study aims to investigate the changes in the Wedding costume for Paebak(Hyunkugorye) in Westernizing Korean society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analyzed the related literature for the first half of the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 116 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. It is obvious that bridegroom and bride wore the same clothes for Hyunkugorye and the formal wedding ceremony in the early twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, wonsam was rather more widely used than hwalot as the bride's wedding costume in the late twentieth century. But there were many changes starting from the early 1970s. The changes were deviated from the traditional style and became more decorative and somewhat crude: that is, people began to embroider wonsam and the piping was added to the collar of danryung. All these changes resulted from the pursuit of commercial interests with the misunderstanding of and the indifference to traditional beauty, while Korean society had experienced the Japanese rule of Korea, the Korean War and the industrialization during the 1960s and 1970s. Therefore, to establish appropriate wedding culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people who get involved in wedding business for traditional wedding culture and clothes, because nowadays . most of bridegrooms and brides borrow ceremonial costume for Hyunkugorye.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.939-951
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• 2007

This paper is about bridegroom's wedding robe, danryung(團領, a kind of official uniform) which can be found in the scenes of wedding ceremonies such as Chohaeng(初行, a ceremony that the bridegroom goes to the bride's house for wedding) and Hoehonrye(回婚禮, a ceremony that celebrates the $60^{th}$ wedding anniversary) in the genre paintings from the $18^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. In the documents of the $18^{th}$ and the $19^{th}$ centuries containing the wedding information of that period, danryung was described in various red tones ranging from Ja(紫, purple), Gang(絳 crimson), to Yeonhong(軟紅, pale pink). Similarly, red danryung(紅團領) was seen most frequently at the Chohaeng sights of the genre paintings. On the other hand, it was often depicted that the bridegrooms put on various colored danryungs at Hoehonrye. This was because bridegrooms at Hoehonrye wore their full dress according to their official ranks. In the genre paintings of the 18th century, all bridegrooms wore simple danryungs without hungbae(胸背, official insignia panel) except those in Hoehonrye painting where officials used hungbae. On the contrary, hungbae was discovered in the $19^{th}$ century Chohaeng paintings even though it was not precisely painted. This change of the bridegroom's danryung with hungbae attached was related to that of the official uniform system itself, in which black danryung with hungbae was exclusively used for officials. Afterwards it became the basis of the blue danryung of the present day.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• 식물분류학회지
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• 제49권3호
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• pp.240-252
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• 2019

20세기초 한반도에서 채집된 고표본들은 한국전쟁 동안 대부분이 소실되었으나, 일본 도쿄대학교 표본관(TI)에 소장된 한반도 고표본들은 온전하게 보존되어 있다. 북한 식물에 대한 정보를 얻을 수 없는 현 상황에서 TI의 한국산 고표본 정보는 매우 중요하다. TI 수장고에서 최근 확인된 미동정 상태의 한반도 고표본을 동정하여 목록을 작성했으며, 중복채집품(duplicate)을 확보했다. 곤충학자인 Ikuma Yoichiro는 1913년 8월 1일부터 23일까지 청진에서 백두산을 거쳐 혜산진에 이르는 일정 동안 60과 177속 240종류의 식물을 채집했다.

• 가족자원경영과 정책
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.95-104
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• 1999

This study aims to review the family life and its changing process in the early twenty’s century. It is explored through the editorial of the Maeil-Shinho during 1910∼1945. It is valuable work to explore of family life in the Maeil-Shinbo newspapers because it was continuously published from 1910 to 1945. The author attempted to study family life in five major such as food and nutrition, clothing, resource management, family, and child care. And of the articles food and nutrition parts ranks the highest order and clothing care was the second highest. In the early nineteenth century, many of articles were about to family life but decreased its amount by 1940. Of the editorials, most articles had dealt with the educational context in order to improve the quality of family life.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.9-28
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• 1999

Broadly speaking, this paper is concentrated on the trimming of the wood demanded for the palace, constructed in the 2nd half of the Choseon Dynasty. To be concrete, this is the study on the craftman and craftmanship corncerned with the trimming of the wood, its system, and terms of payment of his wages, Construction reports, financial reports, job slips, written estimates, bills for payment, and other documents in those days are examined for the study. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. 1) The operation system of whole construction office and its suboffice was very specialized and systematized from the early 19th century. 2) The craftman engaged in trimming of the wood was subdivided by work function. 3) The craftman for its first trimming, i.e. 'keojang' or 'seonjang' had been treated as a speacial labor recruited to the mid-l8th century, after that, was enrolled into the craftman. 4) A unit cost of its first trimming was firstly appropriated into the reconstruction of the Kyongwoon Palace in the early 20th century, and it was very subdivided for a personnel management. 5) Contract works were widely applied to all workers engaged in the reconstruction for an efficiency of the accomplishments.