• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.57-72
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• 2012

Interest in the environment is rising in all the sectors of industry and culture. Even in the fashion industry, fashion designers have recently begun delivering messages on the environment. In particular, $Issey$ $Miyake$ has been constantly interested in environmental issues, and has been deemed as a designer who values practicality and universality in clothing. This study seeks to examine Issey Miyake's fashion from the perspective of an eco-friendly design. This research analyzed collections of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980 to 2010 through photo works and www.firstview.com. The research method was to study 8 people who have professionalism in fashion design and have analyzed 201 works of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980s to 2000s that have the characteristics of eco-friendly design. The results showed the following characteristics of eco-friendly design in Issey Miyake's fashion : naturality, simplicity, sustainability and transformability. First, $Issey$ $Miyake$ preferred natural materials and used Japan traditional dyeing that integrated modern techniques for naturality. Second, he expressed simplicity in his fashion by applying the least cutting and sewing in geometric panels. Third, he pursued sustainability with comfortable clothing that anyone could wear regardless of trend, age and body shape. Finally, he developed the A-POC system that eliminated the usual needs for cutting and sewing and tried transformability on clothing using buttons, strings, belts, zippers, and layered styling.

• Advances in environmental research
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.113-125
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• 2017

Santa Barbara Amorphous-15(SBA-15) nanoparticles were utilized as the inexpensive and effective adsorbents to remove methylene blue dye from the aqueous solution.SBA-15 was created by Zhao et al method. Infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were used for the evaluated physical properties of SBA-15. The results of diffraction X-ray indicated that was the crystalline structure for it. Also IR spectroscopy indicated was a silica the whole structure of the groups and SEM image verify the structure of relatively identical particles size of SBA-15. Factors affecting adsorption including the amounts of adsorbent, pH and contact time were investigated by a SBA-15 nanomaterial design. The extent of dye removal enhanced with increasing initial dye concentration and pH from 4 to 10. The higher percentage adsorption were obtained under optimum conditions of variables (sorbent dose of 200 mg/liter, initial MB concentration 10 mg/liter, initial pH of 10 and temperature of $25^{\circ}C$). Maximum adsorption happened after the 2 hour and the kinetic processes of the dyes adsorption were described by applying the pseudo-first-order and the pseudo-second-order and the relatively High correlation with the kinetic Ellovich models. It was found that the pseudo-second-order models kinetic equation described the data of dye adsorption with a good correlation (R2>0.999) which indicated chemisorption mechanism. Freundlich and Langmuir adsorption models were investigated in conditions of variables (adsorbent dose 0.01 gr/liter, MB concentration 10, 20, 30 mg/liter, pH of 4, 7, 10, contact time 90 min and temperature of $27^{\circ}C$). The adsorption data were represented by Langmuir isotherm model. These values are higher than the adsorption capacities of some other adsorbents that have recently been published in the literature.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.461-466
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• 2013

Synthetic fiber materials were developed due the desire of consumers for high-quality, high-performance and comfort. A high functionality of synthetic fiber can be obtained through surface treatment that can improve hydrophilic properties, color depth after dyeing and adhesion properties. These advantages create added-value. Hydrophobic properties are an important feature to create added-value (such as hydrophilic properties). One side processing is a method of imparting to contrary function on the front and rear side. In this study, fluorine-coated Nylon/PU blended fabric was treated on only one side with a low-temperature plasma treatment; subsequently, the contact angles decreased by increasing the time and intensity of the plasma treatment. The contact angle of the untreated surface and the treated surface was different. It a showed a difference in the properties of both surfaces. Tensile strength and stiffness decreased by increasing the time and intensity of the plasma treatment. However, plasma treatment did not significantly change the tensile strength and stiffness on both surfaces of the fabric. SEM photographs showed the surface of fluorine-coated fabric and the etching surface by using plasma treatment on the fabric. Plasma treatment was confirmed not to affect the physical properties of the fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.330-346
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to link traditional patterns to modern clothing. Of all the traditional patterns, the cloud pattern was chosen for use during the development of a modern one-piece dress design. This study is based upon document searches, including research papers. Through these searches, it investigates the symbolic meaning, historical change, and formation of the cloud pattern. Based on this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the cloud pattern and apply the modernized patterns to the design of a one-piece dress. The design procedure includes three sub-processes: selection, arrangement, and color-scheme. The selection process was divided in two: first, the original form of the cloud pattern was hand-drawn using tracing paper: second, the form of the pattern was edited using Adobe Photoshop. The arrangement of the pattern was made through the checklist conception method, containing the following functions: expand, reset, repeat, and overlap. For the color-scheme of the pattern, Roy Lichtenstein's(1923~1997) work was selected, and the colors in his work were adopted when dyeing the rest of the one-piece dress as well as the cloud features. In conclusion, six modern designs of the one-piece dress were created by using one of Korea's traditional patterns - the cloud pattern. Therefore, this study can offer invaluable suggestions for multifaceted research on how to come up with design concepts which apply Korea's traditional patterns to clothing design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.81-100
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to link traditional patterns to mordern clothing. Of all the traditional patterns, the fish pattern was chosen for use during the development of a creative one-piece design for woman and shirts design for man. This study is based upon document searches, including research papers. Through these searches, it investigates the symbolic meaning, formation of the fish pattern and the creative design process. Based on this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the fish pattern and apply the fish patterns to the design of a one-piece dress and shirts. The design procedure includes three sub-processes: selection, arrangement and color-scheme. The selection process, the form of the pattern was edited using Adobe Photoshop. The arrangement of the pattern was made through the checklist conception method, containing the following functions: expand, reset, repeat, omission and dismantling. For the color-scheme of the pattern, Paul Klee(1879-1940)work was selected, and the colors in his work were adopted when dyeing the rest of the one-piece dress and shirts as well as fish features. In conclusion, six designs of the one-pieces dress and shirts were created by using one of Korea's traditional patterns-the fish pattern. This kind of study not only let the world know about the unique beauty of nations but also helps to inspire people who has a profession in design, by suggesting design development process based on design competitiveness improvement factor from fusion of tradition and modern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권3_4호
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• pp.464-472
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• 2002

The aim of this study was to elucidate dyeability and antimicrobial activity of cotton fabrics dyed with Sophora Radix extracts according to various mordants. Dyes were extracted from Sophora Radix using ethanol. Then, cotton fabrics were dyed with extracts two times by post-mordanting method in which the extract was 60% (owf, the mordant was 3% (owf), L.R was 1:20, the temperature was 60~7$0^{\circ}C$, the time of dyeing was 60min., and the time of mordanting was 60min.. The dyeability was evaluated by surface color and color fastness. The skin microorganism was evaluated on S. sureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis, P. acnes, P. aeruginosa, E. coli, A. niger, C. albicans and T. mentagrophytes. The results are as follows; 1. When mordants were treated, surface color was 3.3Y to 0.1 GY in H (hue) value which indicated greenish yellow to yellow 2. The color fastness to perspiration, dry-cleaning, rubbing, and washing stain fabric showed 4~5 degree. The color fastness to light was improved to 4 degree by treatment of mordants. The color fastness to washing was 2 degree which was somewhat poor. 3. Cotton dyed with ethanol extracts was excellent on S. aureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis and p. antis. But that showed poor antibacterial activities on P. aeruginosa and E. coli such as gram negative baterials 4. Antibacterial activity of cotton fabrics dyed didn't be improved by treatment of mordant 5. Antifungal activity of cotton dyed with ethanol extracts was excellent on T. mentagrophytes. Especially, on T. mentagrophytes there was no growth of fungus during 72 hours in cotton dyed mordanting with SnCl$_2$.$_2$$H_2O$.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권9호
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• pp.1461-1466
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• 2008

This study provides effects of mixed activators on enzymatic activation and determines optimum mixture ratio for enzymatic treatment. Wool 80% and polyester 20% blend fabric and papain from carica papaya are used in this experiment. L-cysteine and sodium sulfite are used as activators for papain treatment process. The treatment condition is pH 7.5, $70^{\circ}$, papain concentration 10%(o.w.f), 60 minutes. L-cysteine and sodium sulfite are added in enzyme solution with various concentrations($0{\sim}50mM$). The optimum treatment condition is determined by measuring weight loss, tensile strength, whiteness, water contact angle(WCA), dyeability and surface micrographs. The results are as follow; The optimum mixture ratio of activators is L-cysteine 2mM and sodium sulfite 10mM. Mixed activators assists in improving the activation of papain. WCA of papain treated fabrics is decreased since papain treatment with activator mixture makes wool polyester blend fabrics more hydrophilic. Dyeing property of papain-treated fabrics more improves by the treatment with mixed activators than with single activator. It means that this method can save time and lower cost. After papain treatment in the presence of mixed activator, the surface of fabrics is modified. The surface of wool fiber shows to be descaled and hydrolyzed, and that of polyester fiber shows to be cracked.