• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.31-45
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• 2022

After manufacturing the natural dyed actual size Hanji using 11 kinds of plant natural dyeing materials and 2 kinds of animal natural dyeing materials, the color characteristics and color change and color fastness after post-mordanting were compared and discussed. The hues of 13 types of natural dyed Hanji were black, PB, and RP, each with 1 type, YP with 3 types, and Y with 7 types. Among the natural dyeing materials, Chinese ink, indigo and Lac showed high color yield and color difference, and violet-root cromwell and gardenia seeds showed low color yield. The color fastness of Hanji dyed with turpentine diluted Ottchil, Pagoda tree seeds, Chinese ink and indigo was excellent, while that of gardenia seeds and violet-root cromwell were very poor. After post-mordanting of natural dyed Hanji with Al, Cu, and Fe mordants, the hue changes were show up the Alnus firma, clove, lac and cochineal. In addition, the color difference was very diverse and was overall the most biggest due to Fe mordant. After 72 hr. of UV irradiation on post-mordanting natural dyed Hanji, hue change was observed in 3 types and color fastness was improved in 8 types by post-mordanting. The Hue and color fastness are significantly different depending on the type of natural dying materials and post-mordants. Therefore, when dyeing Hanji with natural dyes, it is necessary to dye with sufficient knowledges and informations about the desired color and fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.154-160
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• 2005

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Puerariae Radix was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Puerariae Radix were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Puerariae Radix solution was at 290nm and 301nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Puerariae Radix was during 1 hour in loot. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 80$\~$ 100$^{circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Puerariae Radix appeared yellow-brown. US value of dyeing fabrics was increased by Fe, and Cu mordant treatment. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Puerariae Radix light fastness of appeared more than 2-5 grades by mordant treatment. Perspiration fastness of appered more than 4 grades by Al, Sn, Cr mordant treatment. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appered more than 4-5 grades. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1484-1492
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• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.911-921
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• 1997

Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace and reactionism in fashion. Indigo dyeing, safflower dyeing and Gal-ott in Cheju-Do become generally known, so the study about the natural dyeing is continued with national intrust and support. In this study, 1 used artemisia for various dyeing tests because we can get it easily. 1 tested the dyeability in wool as well as cotton and silk with wormwood in natural dyeing material. I also dyed nylon with the same material for the comparison of the molecular structure. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment were done in cotton to improve the low dyeability in the natural dyeing. The result of this study are as follows; We have to dye repeatedly to get deep color in natural dyeing, and mordant treatment brought good result in color difference and dyeing fastness. 1. Compared with silk, wool and nylon, the dyeability of cotton was the worse. The color difference of cotton was 18.81 without mordants , and 24.05 with mordant. The dyeability of cotton was much increased by mordants such as potassiumdichromate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate and salt water. The color of cotton was turned into yellow-green in potassium dichromate and yellow-green with deep green in copper sulfate. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment of cotton made the improvement in color, dyeability, laundering fastness, abrasion fastness. 2. The color difference of silk was 3 times as high as cotton. It showed the similar degree with the chitosan treated-cotton. That is to say, silk had good dyeability because it contains amino group and carboxyl group. The dyebility of silk was increased by a mordant such as iron sulfate, potassium dichromate and salt water, Drycleaning fastness showed 5 grade, abrasion-fastness was high over 4~5 grade and sunlight fastness showed 1 grade in all case. 3. The color difference of wool was the best among four fabrics because of 18 kinds of amino acids. It is considered that the sulfate of wool has the polarity and help metal- mordants get the better dyeability such as potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, and aluminum chloride. The color was reddish-green in potassium dichromate, yellow.greenin iron sulfate and copper sulfate, and yellow in the rest mordants. Drycleaning fastness of wool showed over 4~5 grade, abrasion fastness 5 grade. Sunlight-fastness 1 grade. 4. The dyeability of nylon was almost same because of the similar molecular structure with silk. The clarity of color was poor. The color was yellow-green in copper sulfate and yellow in the rest mordants. Laundering fastness and abrasion-fastness of nylon was good. Sunlight- fastness represented 1 grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.99-113
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• 2005

Recently, problems related to the natural dyeing have been addressed. Severer problems have been posed by the elution at metallic ions and dyestuff tram dyed fabrics. In order to prevent the elution tram the dyed fabrics, it is needed to improve the fastness. Especially, it is the most important measure to improve the fastness to perspiration in terms at human body safety. In this study, we employed chitosan pretreatment method bet ore the dyeing process, anticipating that the pretreatment might improve the fastness. We used Al, Sn, and Cu as mordants and investigated the fastness to light and perspiration of the chitosan treated and dyed fabric specimens. By the chitosan pretreatment, the fastness to perspiration improved, while the fastness to light did not.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.219-229
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability of silk fabrics with sweet potato stem leaf extract. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing conditions(temperature, pH, time and bath ratio). The dyeability and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. After dyeing, various color fastness(wash fastness, dry cleaning fastness, light fastness, rub fastness, and perspiration fastness) was measured and reviewed for UV protective, deodorant and antimicrobial functionality. The optimun output, as a result, was shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 80 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and mordanting, it was found that among four mordants of $Alk(SO_4)_2$, $CuSO_4$, $SnCl_2$, and $FeSO_4$, post-mordanting with $SnCl_2$ showed the best results. Color fastness to dry cleaning, washing and rubbing was found strong at grade 4-5 and the grade to perspiration was as good as 3 while to light fastness was good at 4 as well. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98.3% UV protection rate and 88% deodorization rate. Antibacterial activity was 99.9% against staphylococcus aureus and 73.3% against klebisella pneumoniae. In conclusion, we validated that the dyestuffs from the disused sweet potato stem leaf extract would be useful as a natural dye material using the optimized conditions and dyeability for silk dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.35-40
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• 2008

Dyeing and washing fastness properties of polyurethane-impregnated polyester (PU-impregnated PET), and the distribution of two disperse dyes between PET and PU film were studied to investigate the effect of PU portion to exhaustion and washing fastness. Dyeing properties of PU-impregnated PET were quite different with those of PET: PU-impregnated PET absorbed disperse dye linearly from the early stage of dyeing to equilibrium, and it exhibited excellent build-up property up to 4 %owf dyeing. The absorbed dye on PU film at early dyeing stage migrated to more substantive PET at the temperature higher than $115^{\circ}C$. The amount of exhausted dye on PET portion was larger than on PU film and the distribution ratio was $2.08{\sim}2.34$. The grade of washing fastness of PU-impregnated PET was the same as or lower by $0.5{\sim}1$ grade than PU film whose washing fastness was lower by $0.5{\sim}1$ than PET.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

To develop natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the dyebath extracted from wisteria. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing temperature, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordant treatment which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, wool, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(ΔE) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk and cotton fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. In silk and wool fabrics(non mordant, dyeing time-20min), color differences increased in case of dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, but in cotton, ramie and hemp fabrics, color differences did not increase. Without mordant treatment, color differences of all experimental fabrics were about 10-20, so in wisteria dyeing mordant treatment was necessary. Color differences were increased by the mordant treatment; the color of dyed fabrics with Al mordant is dull yellow, Cu mordant is gold and Fe mordant is olive tone. Color difference was not affected by pH of dyebath in all experimental fabrics. On the whole, the color fastness of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were good, but color fastness to washing and perspiration in Fe mordant was weak and improved in Cu mordant.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.35-41
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• 2001

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with onion shell were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of onion shell, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and pH, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordants and mordanting methods or color change and dye uptakes were investigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed and mordanted fabric were evaluated. The color fastness was improved when Fe mordant was added.