• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of cotton fabric with gardenia blue powder was studied. Cotton fabrics were treated with chitosan in order to increase K/S values and colorfastness. K/S values were increased with increasing the concentration of gardenia blue powder, dyeing time and temperature, and the lower pH of dye bath. In case of chitosan finishing, K/S values were increased, and ${\lambda}_{max}$ shifted to 600nm at 400nm. The wash fastness was improved, but the abrasion fastness was lowered in the case of wet rubbing.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.3-14
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• 2016

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.129-135
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• 2018

Scientific investigation of cultural heritage can provide important information to understand the context of the object. To know the characteristics of the material is also an essential part of objects management and conservation. However, the identification and characterization of organic dyes used in archaeological and historical textiles are often limited by the restrictions in sampling. To cope with the difficulties, applications of high-performance techniques of surface analysis, such as Time of Flight-Secondary Ion Mass Spectra (TOF-SIMS) could be considered as a non or micro-destructive option. This study aims to examine the applicability of TOF-SIMS analysis to the detection of organic dyes from historical textiles. A group of silk fabrics dyed with vegetable dyes were artificially photo-aged to different degrees and analyzed with TOF-SIMS. Molecular and fragment ions from indigo were successfully detected from the aged samples; however, only some fragment ions were observed from gardenia and safflower dyed fabrics. Further studies with actual historical samples with extended examination scope would be necessary to assess the validity of this technique.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.36-44
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• 2003

Chitosan treatment of textile fabrics has been studied to improve fabric characteristics and functions. Natural dyestuffs have been more actively employed in environment-conscious finishing products. In this study, chitosan treated cotton and nylon fabrics were prepared for dyeing with a few natural dyestuffs. These were Caesalpina sappan, Gardenia jasminoides, and cochineal in the form of powder. Hand-related physical and mechanical properties and luster characteristics were examined using the KES-FB series instruments and a set of luster measuring equipment. The chitosan treatment seemed to be more effective in terms of increasing stiffness for cotton fabric. Since cotton fibers have more -OH groups in the molecules, they provide more linkage sites with the chitosan than the nylon 6 fibers do.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.