• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.52-67
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• 1999

A Study on the Drapery Presented in Costume The purpose of this study is to find esthetic characteristic of a drapery costume throughout Greece costume and modern fashion. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceed. And photos of the drapery costume were analyzed. Drape is the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment is an important quality to consider indesigning. Fabric falling in folds in the garment as seen on statues of ancient Greece ; most outstanding modern versions made by designer Gres and Vionnet. Greek costume was in drapery types mostly and a feature created the vest esthetic effert on simplicity with ornament of drapery. Grecian were expressed pure beauty and natural beauty throughout their drapery costume. Madame Gres is widely considered one of the most talented greece for inspiration of the couture, ranked by many with Vionnet. They shows in their mastery of Greek draping -el-egance and simplicity- And also, they always implicity emphasized the relationship between clothing and the female body. Therefore drapery costume admired beauty of pure human body Clothing is expressed which wanted to get the nature and human, search for the losed nature of modern men. In conclusion, the characteristic of drapery costume from ancient greece to modern, timeless concerned human\`s lives and recurring humanity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.628-636
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the general distribution trend of drapery according to the material of flare skirt and the body size. 100% polyester and 100% rayon fabrics were chosen to compare the effect on the material type. The results from this study were as follows. (1) Both materials generally had similar trend of drapery (2) The difference of material influenced the shape and the amount of drapery. The amount of drapery in polyester was more than the one in rayon. (3) Rody size didn't significantly influence the shape of grapery. So it is concluded that material type is more important variable than the body size for the drapery.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.115-125
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• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.237-254
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• 2020

In this study, we analyzed the images of women in Korean society through the female body expressed in nude paintings from Korea. The study included a literature study and a case study. Through prior research, we examined the history of nude paintings in Korea and the way people conceptualized the female body in Korean society. The case study focused on nude paintings of Korean artists, produced since 1910, when Western painting concept was first introduced to Korea. The social perspective of the female body in Korea was categorized into the three concepts: Eros, Motherhood and Power. Next, we examined the role of drapery and clothes in expressing these three concepts. Drapery and clothes played active roles in hiding and emphasizing the female body, showing the psychology of a woman or the artist's intention, showing the entire mood of the work, and giving three dimensional feeling and elegance to the work. We could see that the role of clothes changed from expressing a virtuousness in the past to stimulating a voyeuristic gaze in the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.114-126
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• 2011

Many varieties in folk costumes have inspired fashion designs for a long time. Each country, with a unique style of its own reflects their own traditions, beliefs, customs and morals into their traditional costumes. The traditional methods of creating different ways of drapery methods by using only a rectangular piece of cloth have been passed down from generation to generation and it is still used today. This way of styling has been developed mainly in the Middle East, Asia and Africa and the modifiable ways of creating drapery wearing methods are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is changing the purpose of wearing costumes according to the needs and the wants of the person who wears it. The second method is exposing the knots on the surface of the garments and by doing this, there was no visible difference on the aesthetic formation and it did not alternate for a long time. This means that simple knot shapes have been used to tie edges of rectangular fabrics. The third method is a wrapping type of modifiable styling method, which has been used most commonly in folk costumes because there are lots of ways to wrap a rectangular cloth around the body. The fourth way is the fixed type of modifiable styling method and this method can only be noticed only in the Moroccan Izar using fibulas and belts to alter the shape of the Izar. The fifth method is the composite type of modifiable styling method. This method starts by cutting out cylindrical shapes of fabrics and then wraps or twists it to fit the body. The most significant character of modifiable styling methods in folk costumes is to use rectangular cloths, which varies only in ratio of length, width and sizes. Therefore, this study suggests that rectangular cloths can create enormous amounts of fashion styling which can be easily adapted and created in everyday fashion life.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.117-129
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• 2015

This study is to find out the changes and features of male consumers' life style and purchase tendency according to the change of Korean fashion market, and based on which to suggest the design for the 20s men as well as a proper distribution channel for it. Documentary research and investigation were done together for the study. By reviewing documents focused on previous studies and declaring the change of men's fashion shopping tendencies and the following changes and features of their fashion sense and styles a conceptional frame for a design suggestion was presented. Ways to investigate were men's wear collection research, Q-technique. First of all, they tend to boldly reduce unnecessary purchases and do not hesitate to focus on the wanted item, expanding the trend of 'value purchase.' Secondly, men's wear use various design elements with feminine images, while the materials, colors and design expressive techniques that have been exclusively used for women's wear, began to be applied to men's one, turning them into gentle styles with womanhood is stressed. Thirdly, Korean distribution channel is rapidly diversified from departments to new-concept ones such as multi-brand stores. Especially, displaying and selling various optional products, multi-brand stores lead such diversification of fashion distribution channel. Fourthly, features of the drapery types favored by the 20s men are that they like no-chromed dark or blackish colors with fixed structure and partially-applied drapery on the clothes. Fifthly, it turns out that men in their 20s set a premium on design and price while they buy clothes. In addition to that, they buy clothes mainly during discount period and displayed much bigger satisfaction for the purchase on discounted price that those on normal price.

• International Commerce and Information Review
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.175-191
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• 2008

Materials Industry has a very large ripple effect on national economic development. Nevertheless, Korea has been passing over importance of this Industry. So, this study examined competitiveness on ten chief exporting items to U.S.A market based on the understanding of vital role of materials industry in the national economy. Analyzing methods were Market Share, Trade Specialization Index(TSI), and Market Comparative Advantage(MCA) and the data were collected through parts and materials statistical data which produced by Korean Commerce and Industry Minister. From this study, following results were found. i) Highly ranked items of U.S.A market share were chemical fiber drapery weaving, synthetic fiber. These items commanded over 10% share of the same market and tire, steel wire occupied 9.05%, 8.65% respectively. ii) In searching trade balance aspects through TSI, tire and steel wire secured very powerful competitiveness among examined items in trading with U.S.A. while synthetic resins and other plastic material were very weak competitiveness in the same market. iii) Analysis results of market competitiveness by MCA, indicated that chemical fiber drapery weaving, synthetic fiber and tire ensured high-powered competitiveness in U.S.A Market. Therefore, these items would be positioned as main items in the market.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.173-179
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• 2010

In this study, we determine the stretch and shrinkage properties of conjugated yarns. The shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) were determined by applying twist conditions of 0, 350, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600, 2000 T/M (twisting per meter). It is found that the shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) gradually decreased with increasing T/M. Especially the elasticity(%) dramatically decreased over 1400 T/M condition. In contrast, it is showed that the handle and drapery properties decreased below 1000 T/M, which indicates that the optimal T/M condition could be 1000~1400. The effect of shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) with different steam setting temperatures (60, 70, 80 and $90^{\circ}C$) was also determined. The shrinkage(%) decreased with increasing setting temperature, while the elasticity not changed. In this context, the optimal steam setting temperature could be $80^{\circ}C$ because it is not easy to weave with the yarns which was set below $80^{\circ}C$. The elasticity(%) decreased with increasing the density of warp and weft. To produce soft handle, excellent drapery and good stretch fabrics, the warp density needs to be reached by 90% of the ideal warp density. In the case of NaOH treatments to the fabrics, the elasticity(%) increased with increasing weight reduction. Therefore, this study have demonstrated that the conjugated yarns with core yarn and the SDY CD(cation dyeable spindraw yarn) as an effect yarn would be appropriate to produce excellent mixture-yarn, which displays clean appearance, good handle and excellent elasticity, The optimized conditions are as follows; 1000~1200 twist per meter, $80^{\circ}C$ steam setting temperature, 90% of ideal warp density and relaxation condition treated with 5g/l NaOH concentration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.