• Title/Summary/Keyword: Drape

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A Study on the Beauty of Line in the Cho-sun Costume (조선복식에 표현된 선(線)의 미(美)에 대한 고찰)

  • 도주연;권영숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.217-236
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    • 2000
  • The study is on the beauty of the line in the Cho-sun Costume. In the aspect of the Costume Aesthetics and Study of Clothing Design, I try to find the beauty of the line in the external form and the immanent beauty of the external line in the Cho-sun Costume. The results of the study is that : 1) The beauty of the line external form have ① the functional beauty of the line ② the beauty of drape line ③ combination of the line of internal and external structure. ④ the beauty of wearing with the Chi-ma. ⑤ the beauty of sharp line in the ornaments 2) The immanent beauty of the line in the Cho-sun Costume : There are a natural beauty found by the reason of nature, temperate beauty, simple beauty in the Cho-sun Costume.

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Effect of the Manufacturing Process Characteristics of PET Fabrics on the Clothing Sensiblity (PET 직물 제조 공정특성이 의류 감성에 미치는 영향)

  • 홍성대;김승진;박경순
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • 2001.05a
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    • pp.82-87
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구에서는 PET 직물의 물성개선과 품질의 향상을 위해 직물 제조 공정 중 제직준비공정인 1TY, P/W, 2-FOR-1공정에서 여러 가지 공정인자의 변화를 주어 염색·가공 공정을 거친 최종 11가지 직물의 역학적 특성치 및 각 공정별 시료의 물성을 측정하여 의류의 감성특성은 Handle, 의복성능 및 봉제성을 평가하여 직물 제조 공정특성이 의류 감성에 미치는 영향에 대해 분석하였다. 그 결과 1TY, P/W, 2-for-1공정에서 균일하고, 안정된 장력으로 제조한 직물은 신축성 및 drape성이 장력이 과다하게 주어진 직물보다 우수하고, 의류봉제시 신장성이 양호한 봉제 범위를 가져 의복 착용시 감성면에서 부드럽고 쾌적한 성능을 가진다. 그리고 공정에서 고장력, 고속의 spindle 회전은 사물성 및 직물의 물성변화를 야기시키고 교략강도의 불안정성으로 최종 직물에서 유연성과 탄력성 및 volume감이 떨어지는 의류촉감을 가지며 또 stiff한 의류 감성을 나타냄으로서 의류용 소재로는 부적당함을 확인하였다.

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The Study on Characteristic Analysis of Fabrics by Air Flow Finishing Machine (Air-Flow 가공기에 의한 직물의 특성 분석 연구)

  • Park, Young Tae;Choi, Ho Sang;Lee, Soo Kag;Lee, Gwang Soo
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.47-54
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    • 1996
  • In order to develop the air flow finishing machine with low tension drying and surface modification by high impact effect, the treatment characteristics and the moving speed of fabrics was analysed and investigated in the newly developed system. The change of handle before and after treatment of fabrics measured using Kawabata system. The moving speed in air nozzle was affected by an air pressure of blower, and the maximum value was 1,000 m/min. In accordance with the change of handle, the treatment effect was very different compared with untreated fabrics. And the drape properties of fabrics increased about 10∼45% compared with untreated one.

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A Study of Fabric Properties for Classified on Apparel Material Image (의류소재 이미지 분류에 따른 직물 특성 연구)

  • 박기윤
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.15-31
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    • 2001
  • Textile fabrication affected by consumer and selected by fashion designer. The textile fabrication has been made not only by introducing the newly developed fiber but also by modifying the existing textile materials to impart sensibility to them. Consumers choose but to their sensibility of textile material and fashion trend. On purpose in this research is find out have influence on textile image. Wool fabrics have been in use from early age in northern Europe. Recognition of the role of the morphological structure, surface properties, chemical composition, acid-base characteristics in the chemical treatment of wool led to quantum advances in the fields of setting, shrink-resisting, chemical modification, and internal fiber cross-linking. Mechanical finishing to develop the handle, drape, and surface characteristics of the fabric is at least as important as chemical or wet finishing. Result showed that to have variety sensibility and trend theme in wool fabrics are tweed, venetian, serge, gabardine and melton.

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After-treatment of Jumchi Technique for using Dakji as Clothing Material (닥지의 의류소재 활용을 위한 줌치기법의 후처리)

  • Kim, Jung-Ju;Jang, Jeong-Dae
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.245-248
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    • 2004
  • This study examied ned physical properties and surface characteristics of papers post-processed by Jumchi technique and stainability of extract from Amur Cork-Tree to use Dakji as clothing material. Then, it found the following results. After-treatment by Amorphophalus konjac K. Koch and persimmon juice showed stronger tensile strength and tearing strength than untreated samples and the drape stiffness was substantially increased. After-treatment by persimmon juice generated dyeing effects as well as excellent tensile strength and tearing strength all samples were generally dyed well by Amur Cork-Tree, While the untreated samples did not show any significant effects in dyeing for more than 5 minutes. It was found that after-treatment substantially contributed on concentration of dyeing as dyeing amounts of post-processed samples were gradually increased as time increased. After-treated sample with agar did not show any significant differences from untreated sample. Accordingly, it has to be studied further.

Syntheses of Rayon-like Polyester (Rayon-like 폴리에스터의 합성(合成))

  • Ahn, Young-Moo;Park, Young-Gi
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.5
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    • pp.155-164
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    • 2007
  • Viscose rayon has advantages such as vivid luster, good dyeability, low static electricity, good absorbance and good spinnability but also has flaws such as easy crease and decrease of physical properties when it gets wetting, and it requires dry cleaning. Therefore in order to synthesize the polymer to solve the problems of rayon while keeping the advantages of it, this study made the high specific gravity polyester for ultra drape property and high contraction polyester for rayon-like fiber having volume, soft and warm sense. The polyester with high specific gravity, 1.47 was made by adding 7 wt% of $BaSO_4$ as additive. High contraction polyester was made by copolymerization by using IPA 5 mole% to increase the amorphous region as comonomer and also using Newpol BPE-20(NPE) 1.5 wt% not to decrease the properties.

A Study on the Change of Hand of Chitosan-treated Fabrics(Part IV) (키토산으로 처리한 직물의 태의 변화에 관한 연구(제 4보))

  • 서한경;김종준
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.22 no.8
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    • pp.1079-1089
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    • 1998
  • Various fabrics, including natural fibers, regenerated cellulosic fibers, synthetic fibers, blend yarn, and mixture fabrics, were treated with the solutions of high purity chitosan in 1% acetic acid, having high viscosity of 930cps or low viscosity of 8cps. Physical/ mechanical properties of the treated fabrics samples were measured using Kawabata Evaluation System and drape tester. From these, hand values and total hand values of the fabric samples were calculated using Kawabata-Niwa translation equations. KOSHI, SHARI, HARI values have increased for the treated samples, while FUKURAMI values have decreased in general.

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A Geometrical Generation Method of the Skirt 3D Models (스커트 3D 모델의 기하학적 생성 방법)

  • 최우혁;최창석;김효숙;강인애
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.7
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    • pp.770-777
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    • 2003
  • This paper proposes a geometrical method for generating and draping the skirt 3D models. The method constructs a 3D basic skirt model using a truncated elliptical cone and generates the various skirt 3D models by controlling the elliptical cone. The B-Spline approximates the 3D drapes which change variously according to the angles and the textiles of the skirts. The mapping sources consist of the textile textures and the skirt 2D model. The 2D models are obtained by mapping the 3D skirt models to the 2D plane. The mapping sources allow us to map the textiles to the 3D skirts. We make the real skirts for the 6 kinds of angles and textiles. and investigate the data of their drape appearances. The investigated data are applied to the virtual skirts. Appearances of the virtual skirts are similar to those of the real.

양모의 기능가공의 원리와 문제점

  • 古賀 城一
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.3 no.4
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    • pp.39-44
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    • 1991
  • 최근의 합성섬유에 있어서 고기능화는 이전의 천연섬유 지향에 탈피하여 독자의 기능을 가지는 새로운 섬유로의 전개로서 "신합섬"이 등장하였다. 소비자의 요구는 천연섬유의 기능성 요구하면서도 기볍고, 얇고, 부드럽고, drape성이 좋고 발색성이 양호한 섬유를 요구하고 있다. 더우기 각종 견뢰성이 우수하고 easy care하지 않으면 안된다. 이와 같은 요즘의 소비자요구의 고급화, 다양화를 생각할 때 wool에 고부가가치르 부여하는 일을 생각하지 않을 수 없다. 그래서 소비자에게 impact를 주고 message를 첨가한 제품을 제안하지 않으면 안될 것이다. 현재는 Price의 시대로부터 value 시대로의 변혁의 시기에 있다는 것을 인식하여야 한다. 양모섬유는 그 자신, 원래, 다종기능을 갖춘 섬유이며 건강유지에는 이상적이라고 말하는 의류소재라는 것은 잘 알고 있지만 그 지능을 강조하는 가공, 그 기능을 일부 희생시켜서라도 새로운 기능을 부가하는 가공, 종애의 가공기술을 개량, 혁신을 진행시켜 가는 것이 중요하다. 이들 가공기술면의 문제와 동시에 design 및 양모의 기능의 PR을 포함한 판매전략의 새로운 전개도 중요 괴제이다.도 중요 괴제이다.

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Seamless-Effect Knitwear Development using Jacquard Knitting Structure (자카드 조직을 이용한 무봉제 효과 니트웨어 개발)

  • Kwon, Sung-Ha
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.488-495
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to experiment and develop seamless-effect knitwear design using tubular-jacquard structure in order to find a new method of manufacturing knitwear and to suggest a new design. The study is based on changing the point of view about using the practical technique like the tubular jacquard which has been used mainly for expressing patterns. The result of experimenting this, a piece of fabric is able to being worn as a piece of garment. As for using circular structure of tubular jacquard, a body can be fitted into the big space between front and back part of fabric and seams can be made of small patterns of jacquard fabric. The silhouette, the drape and the result of the garment of this experiment are different from the ordinary outfit. Therefore, the study to find a new way of design and manufacturing should go on to suggest a different form and method.