• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제37호
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• pp.5-31
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• 2018

고성오광대 제1과장 문둥북춤은 양반의 자손으로서 조상들의 죄업으로 문둥병에 걸려 고통으로 괴로워하다 신명을 통해 극복한다는 내용을 대사 없이 춤으로만 표현한다. 고성오광대 문둥북춤의 문화재 지정 이후 현재까지 변화양상을 살펴본 결과 시간이 지남에 따라 문둥북춤의 춤사위가 더 많아지고 동작이 구체화된 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 1965년 문둥북춤 춤사위부터 2000년 문둥북춤까지 춤사위가 5개에서 20개로 확장되고 이전보다 구체화된 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 문둥북춤에서 사용하는 소도구 북의 표현하는 방식이 65년의 경우 북을 치고 어르는 춤사위만 있었다면, 1988년의 경우 현재와 같이 북과 북채를 무대에 두고 등장하고 춤사위도 14개로 늘어난 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 2000년 문둥북춤의 경우 문둥이가 북을 잡고 난 이후부터 신명나게 춤을 추며 자진모리장단으로 발전되는 형태는 이전보다 춤사위가 더 다양해지고 이야기 구조를 좀 더 명확하게 표현하는데 사용된 것을 알 수 있었다. 마지막으로 고성오광대의 대표적인 춤사위 배김새가 1965년엔 보이지 않고 1969년엔 한 방향으로만 배김사위를 하는데 1988년과 2000년 문둥북춤에서 보여지는 배김사위는 좌우로 대칭하여 한 번씩 연행해 현재의 배김사위와 같은 것을 알 수 있었다.