• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1455-1466
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• 2002

This research focuses on functionalism in American fashion designs which have become the center of public attention in recent. First, documentary studies about how functionalism, which originated in Europe in the beginning of the 20th century, has been developed throughout the 20th century were preceded Second, content analysis was done for the articles, including the word ‘unction’,‘utility’ and ‘practical’in the New York Times and American Vogue from January 1990 to January 2001. As a result, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from the mechanical, organic, and mea analogies of functionalism in the beginning of 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics of those three analogies. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology, pure functionalism related to minimalism, sports casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort, and symbolic functionalism which stresses Zen style. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in 1990s. It leads to strong expressions of sports casual functionalism, which plays a great role in sportswear industry of American fashion design. The American fashion designers who were mentioned often in the articles were Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. As well as their works have common formative features based on functionalism, each of them shows his/her own strung color. A]1 of these designers make American fashion design, which can be defined as casual wear or sportswear, very popular worldwide based on the developed American functionalism. Functionalism considering practical and conceptional functions will continue in coming century and techno functionalism and sports casual functionalism in future fashion designs wilt be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.967-983
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to review Hanliu phenomenon, a kind of social and cultural phenomenon, in China and to analyze its effects on the fashion style of new young generation of China. In this study, Hanliu phenomenon means the enthusiasm of Asian people for Korean mass culture including Korean dramas, pop songs, and fashions from late 1990s. This research adopts two kinds of methods for analyzing the phenomenon: qualitative and quantitative research methods. As a qualitative research method, we analyzed it with several sources of documentaries and audio-visual materials: articles from newspapers and magazines, special TV reports, and documentary movie files from Internet. As a quantitative research method, we surveyed approximately 100 female students of Beijing university and asked how they feel Korean culture and fashions. The Hanliu phenomenon led to the popularity of Korean products as well as general culture of Korea. Also, it influenced Chinese young generation so much that Korean fashion has become prevailing. Such influence on the street fashion of Chinese youths can be summarized in three factors as follows: First, Korean entertainers' fashion is widely imitated. For example, H.O.T-like hairstyles, hip-hop styles, large heel shoes with boots-cut pants, and long-curled permanent hairstyles have been on among Chinese youths. Second, the preference for Korean fashion products has highly increased. The number of stores dealing with Korean fashion products has increased. Even the 'Kim Hee Seen,' a fashion brand named after a famous Korean actress, was introduced. Finally, Korean culture and products have widely been imitated in China as much as the increasing popularity of Korean fashion products. This study reveals that Hanliu phenomenon is widespread in China, and Chinese youths are largely affected by the fashion styles of Korean entertainers. Also, Korean fashion products are largely imitated and benchmarked in China. Hanliu phenomenon is a big chance to approach the fashion market of China, the largest buying power in the world. To make inroads into the Chinese fashion market, we suggest that we need to have our own brand and to make the most of culture, stars, and Internet in marketing. Also, we need a well-planned strategy for a success in the Chinese fashion market.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.89-99
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• 1992

We discussed the change of housing environmental problems from the early 1900s to the present in Study(I). This study(II) which secendly research of study(I) analyzed the fixing precess of a lavatory centering around a excretion which was a serious housing environmental problem in 1920 to 1940. The documentary research method was used for this study. Articles of content analysis(N=185) were published in 1920 to 1990 which were The Deng-A daily news article about a excretion and a lavatory. The main content of this study was examined the change, such as the number of whole article, the column number of article by time series. and the content of article by subject. 1. The number of whole article by time series was collected mainly in1920s-1930s. In 1940s-1960s, one-two column of article was appeared generally and three-four, five column of article was appeared in 1970-1980. 2. Contents of article was divided into two classes, excretion and lavatory. Contents of excretion was 1) a use of fertilizer 2) the method of transportation 3) a cost of gathering 4) a place of disposal 5) the problem of cleaning. Contents of lavatory was 1) a public lavatory 2) a flush toilet 3) a sanitary conditions 3. 1) A use of fertilizer was concentrated in 1920s-1930s, and problems of it was solved more or less by change of management method. Transportation of excretion developed such as \ulcornerGue\ulcorner->a coach of tank style->underground transportation->a dung car of absorption style. Disposal place of excretion was a cause of dissatisfaction in 1920s and it is serious problem Today. A duty of excretion gathering was transfered to a private worker in 1978. The accunulation problem of excretion was continued until 1940s-1950s. The management law of waste matters was proclaimed in 1986. 2) A public lavatory was planned in 1924 for the first time, and it is insufficient in these days, A settlement of public lavatory in building which has upward of 20pyung became obligation in 1973. The problem of water contamination which by poor septic tank was happened in 1970s-1980s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.189-202
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• 1997

Movie is one of the most popular culture ac-tivities in modern society and the composite rt of science and art born in the 20th century. Movie became the great source of setting the fashion. Especially movie costume brought into relief and was accepted by the mass. As a movie stimulates imitation psychology and identification of the general public in fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of the movie costume to a modern mass fashion. The times was defined the movies from the early Silent era to the modern Hollywood movie from the late of 1910 to 1990. The way of study were to analyze on the changes and roles of movie costume through documentary records and the influence of set-ting the fashion to the mass fashion and classi-fied it five times-silent era classics neo-classics new look and modern times. The summary of result is as follows, 1, Movie costume affected the dress and the fashion of women is Silent era. That fashion was accelerated by actors' costumes in the mode of 1920. 2. Holloywood movies in the Classics show the essence of the fashion movie costume played a role of a fashion leader and commanded the trend of mass fashion. 3. Practical style was shown because of the war in the Neo-classics. Movie industry was prosperous after the war. But the consequences of the movie costume to the mass fashion were more and more weaken 4. Couture designer's costume had an effect on the mass fashion in the early of New look. But it was behind the fashion for the rise of young fashion. 5. The tastes of the fashion were diversified in Modern times. So the movie fashion was not imitated or popular. The costume of "Pret-a-porter" was used in the movies in the 1980. Spectators became to wear the same style of the actors. The times fashion and movie interacted each other. Movie costume is playing a role of a fashion leader guiding the mass fashion.s fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.48-61
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• 2008

This study aimed to examine emo fashion, a very recent music-related fashion trend spreading fast amongst youths, and understand emo ideas and methods of expression for a greater understanding of contemporary youth sub-cultures and fashion trends. Documentary research, positive research and in-depth interviews were used throughout the study. 4 Korean emo bands and 4 U.S. emo bands were selected based on music chart rankings, and a total of 37 photographs from the bands' Internet websites were selected, and their clothes shown in the photographs were examined. 5 Korean emo band musicians were subjects of in-depth interviews, and they were asked about their emo culture, music, fashion, ideas and styles, and photographs were taken of the subjects and evaluated, too. Lastly, Korean and U.S. emo kids were studied through photographs, and comparatively analyzed. Both Korean and U.S. emo musicians wore slim silhouettes, skinny jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, black, studded belts and plastic-framed glasses. Korean fashion expressed a less depressive atmosphere with color and other details compared to the United States, and did not prefer dark black eye make-up, which United States emo style appeared to express frequently. Korean musicians' emo fashion was closer to other youth fashions, whereas U.S. emo fashion included more formal styles such as ruffled shirts and pin-striped vests. Korean emo kids wore clothes not much different from most Korean youths, but U.S. emo kids wore a lot of eye make-up and black t-shirts with graphic or skull prints, and had more geometrical hair styles, as if cut at home. The reasons for such differences were found to be a longer emo music and culture history in the United States leading to more elaborate fashion expressions and a difference in the states of mind, such as Korea pursuing to express love, and the United States pursuing loneliness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.164-179
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• 2008

The Purposes of this study are to analyze the couture-like design characteristics expressed in modern fashion and to grasp its sociocultural meaning. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. Fashion writings and visual sources in Gap Pret-a-porter Collection, www.style.com, www.firstviewkorea.com are used. The results are as follows. First, couture ran be featured as a luxurious made-to-order design for individual clients with high quality fabrics, hand-craftsmanship, painstakingly perfect details and finishing. It is valued on authentic originality, uniqueness, aestheticism, and luxury. As the relationship between couture and mass fashion has changed, there appeared not only traditional couture for few privileged people, but also demi-couture which bridges the gap between luxurious couture and pret-a-porter. Second, couture-like designs in modern fashion are classified as (1)the adaption of house archive (2)retro with couture-like silhouette (3)hand-craftsmanship in details and finishing (4)individualization for only one client. They have sociocultural meanings, which are the reaction to the crisis of originality, new luxury for differentiation, the pursuit of new individualism thinking. Ultimately, it ran be thought that couture-like design in modern fashion results from the mutual needs between elitism fashion designer struggling in the hegemony of originality and reproduction, and modern consumer seeking for luxury, individualization.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.83-92
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• 2003

This study aims to classify women's undergarments of the 20th century by periods, and to examine their characteristics. The research method consists of a literature study based on relevant documentary records and a demonstrative analysis of graphic data collected from each reference. The features of women's undergarments obtained from the study are as follows: First, silhouette changes of outer garments appear to influence the type and style of a new undergarment. Second, technological development results in a new type of undergarments. Third, the development of new material appears to influence functions and design of undergarments. Fourth, social changes including the development of sports affects the changes of undergarments. As seen so far, the form or type, material, and color in undergarment diversify when fashion changes become varied and rapid. As shown before the 20th century, the importance of undergarment's type, form, and function gradually reduces according to the changes of women's mind due to their social participation, although it still plays a role in correcting the shape of an outer garment based on the outer silhouette. The design also clearly shows the extremes of maximization and minimization of decoration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.253-262
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• 2003

The purposes of the study were (1) to analysis Korean traditional wedding costumes through families's wedding photographs from 1940 to 2000, and (2) to categorize bride and groom's costumes according to the wedding time by means of a time series analysis. (3) to find out functional relationship among changes in garment types, garment details, embellishments and colors. The study was a documentary research and data were collected from 390 family wedding photographs by a convenient sampling. The data were analyzed by qualitative and quantitative method and the statistic used were frequency, content analysis, and cross-tab analysis. The results were as follows; First, the garments of wedding couples were categorized into 5 period according to garment's characteristics. 1. The period between 1940～1959 : Korean traditional wedding costumes and western style wedding costumes were existed together in Korean wedding culture. 2. The period between 1960～early 1970's western wedding costumes were dominated. 3. The period of late 1970's : wedding couple's costumes became more formal and decorative. 4. The period of 1980's : introducing see-through materials for brides and tuxedo suit for grooms. 5. The period of 1990's : extravagance in shapes and exposure. Second, there were significant relationships among brides's dress types and neckline, glove length, embellishments and transparency of materials and among groom's garment types and necktie types, types and color of shirts, vests. Third, the time series analysis of bride and groom's outfit produced 5 schematic expressions of wedding outfits according to the period.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.45-60
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• 2017

This study analyzed the type of format and content expression of fashion films, from the perspective of promotion and advertisement. For the analysis, a reference research and case study were employed. Our results showed that the format type of fashion films are categorized as movie type; films that convey a story through lines and provide an interesting element as well as artistic value;, video clip films which consist of intriguing sections in a short-length film;, animation type; films that deliver a message through the virtualized world and a created character;, and music video fashion films that use the musical technique to convey how the story of fashion film is structured. The type of content expression of fashion films are divided into direct expression, which exposes the collection of clothes and accessories directly in fashion films;, metaphorical type; which visually delivers the brand image and product;, and the documentary type; that delivers the brand story and historical facts related to the brand. The study on the analysis of fashion films through type of format and content expression shows how fashion brands effectively and strongly promote their products, enhance their brand values, and increase an interest among the customers.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.61-72
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• 2016

This study is about the structure and transition of orthogonal design of palace architectures in Joseon Dynasty. The results are as follows. First, Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung Palaces' corridors, and their architectures seen in the Court Documentary Paintings have early Joseon style in the corner-connections. Their roof shape in the corner is gable roof. Generally, gable roof has direction. Besides, it is easy to extend gable sides. Second, Corridor of Gyeongbokgung Palace has hipped and gable roofs with corner eaves. It was popular during the late Joseon Dynasty. On the other hand, it is impossible to extend any sides of those roofs since they have roof faces in their four sides. Instead, they have completeness. That's why their aesthetic appeal exhibits more pleasing than gable roofs. Third, corner-connections of palace architecture shows evidences and traces of the transition from gable roofs meeting at right angle in the early Joseon to hipped and gable roofs meeting at right angle with corner eaves in the late Joseon. Also, the corner-connections with corner eaves were usually used even in the attached architectures.